WRX Bug Eye P1131 02 Sensor Error
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WRX Bug Eye P1131 02 Sensor Error
Hi guys.
Ive just replaced my Front o2 Sensor with a Bosch Universal Type.
I then plugged in my ODB Reader and Cleared the Code but the Light comes back on after about 5 or 10 seconds.
Could it be that ive replaced the wrong o2 Sensor :/
The Fault Code is coming up a P1131
Thanks in Advanced.
Mike
Ive just replaced my Front o2 Sensor with a Bosch Universal Type.
I then plugged in my ODB Reader and Cleared the Code but the Light comes back on after about 5 or 10 seconds.
Could it be that ive replaced the wrong o2 Sensor :/
The Fault Code is coming up a P1131
Thanks in Advanced.
Mike
Last edited by MikeRace; 25 January 2017 at 07:59 PM.
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Apparenty its a straight foward swap? I tested with a Multi meter and its giving a Reading of around 3-4v at cold temps. Then drops to around 0.5v when warm?
The error is coming up as a Short Circuit.
Last edited by MikeRace; 25 January 2017 at 08:37 PM.
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The Suppliers that sold me it said it work . Even matched it to the Reg Number. The Wiring Diagrams even state what wires do what.
Last edited by MikeRace; 25 January 2017 at 08:44 PM.
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I'm pretty sure it should be a denso but worth double checking.
http://importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info.asp?id=4822
http://importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info.asp?id=4822
Wonder if theyll give me my money back if its no good.
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If not Ill sell it on Via ebay.
Im wondering if its a narrowband and not a wideband?
Am i right in thinking that the car is in closed loop when it cant detect the sensor?
Im wondering if its a narrowband and not a wideband?
Am i right in thinking that the car is in closed loop when it cant detect the sensor?
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it's a wideband sensor but the ECU isn't reading voltage hence most over the counter universal sensors don't work (and why most aftermarket ECU's can't use the stock sensor to control fuelling). The ECU is also calibrated to work with the original denso sensor so always best to replace like for like. The rear o2 you get a bit of wiggle room with but the front one has to be right.
The car will be open loop only when it can't use the sensor, but you'll also be stuck with either no afr corrections if you've reset the ECU or potentially badly wrong o2 correction values if you've not reset the ECU and been driving round on a dead sensor that's been feeding bad info to the ECU.
If your getting a code for short circuit still when the new sensor is fitted it could also be a wiring fault so it would be worth checking wire continuity from the ECU harness to the sensor connector under the bonnet as well.
The car will be open loop only when it can't use the sensor, but you'll also be stuck with either no afr corrections if you've reset the ECU or potentially badly wrong o2 correction values if you've not reset the ECU and been driving round on a dead sensor that's been feeding bad info to the ECU.
If your getting a code for short circuit still when the new sensor is fitted it could also be a wiring fault so it would be worth checking wire continuity from the ECU harness to the sensor connector under the bonnet as well.
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Thanks Bud,
Think ill Just go with the Denso one as mentioned and use the one I have on my Microsquirted Mini.
I was also going to check the continuity as mentioned.
Cheers
Mike
Think ill Just go with the Denso one as mentioned and use the one I have on my Microsquirted Mini.
I was also going to check the continuity as mentioned.
Cheers
Mike
it's a wideband sensor but the ECU isn't reading voltage hence most over the counter universal sensors don't work (and why most aftermarket ECU's can't use the stock sensor to control fuelling). The ECU is also calibrated to work with the original denso sensor so always best to replace like for like. The rear o2 you get a bit of wiggle room with but the front one has to be right.
The car will be open loop only when it can't use the sensor, but you'll also be stuck with either no afr corrections if you've reset the ECU or potentially badly wrong o2 correction values if you've not reset the ECU and been driving round on a dead sensor that's been feeding bad info to the ECU.
If your getting a code for short circuit still when the new sensor is fitted it could also be a wiring fault so it would be worth checking wire continuity from the ECU harness to the sensor connector under the bonnet as well.
The car will be open loop only when it can't use the sensor, but you'll also be stuck with either no afr corrections if you've reset the ECU or potentially badly wrong o2 correction values if you've not reset the ECU and been driving round on a dead sensor that's been feeding bad info to the ECU.
If your getting a code for short circuit still when the new sensor is fitted it could also be a wiring fault so it would be worth checking wire continuity from the ECU harness to the sensor connector under the bonnet as well.