URGENT Knocklink question.
#1
Noticed that the KL was showing no activity so tested it.Carefully tapped a screwdriver on the bolt that holds the knocksensor in place and nothing!! The first green light is dimmly lit indicating its getting power and its turned to max sensitivity.The knock sensor is brand new and as I peer under the intercooler its plugged in.Any ideas guys? I c'ant blat the car until I get it working.
#2
I did the same test first of all and the conclusion was the same!
Then I knocked closely the Bosch sensor and...All the lights flashed (be careful with this as you easily destroy the sensor).
Don't worry the first light is slight green just to show you that the sensor works.
JIM
Then I knocked closely the Bosch sensor and...All the lights flashed (be careful with this as you easily destroy the sensor).
Don't worry the first light is slight green just to show you that the sensor works.
JIM
#3
The thing is that the KL on my previous STi4 used to light up at least two green lights when I gave full acceleration as it picked up normal engine noise.This does nothing.
#4
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Get somebody to sit in the car and tell you what they see. Now put a socket bar to the holding bolt and tap with a hammer.If nothing it is u/s for whatever reason. When I first checked mine which was quite difficult to reach, a light tap with a screwdriver did nothing. I know it is working because it starts to get excited on WOT with no octane booster.
Only did that as a brief experiment.
Only did that as a brief experiment.
#5
Deep, I have never managed to get mine to light up by knocking the manifold. I prob daren't knock hard enough!
But it DOES work. Lit up light a christmas tree when I blew that Denso sparkplug.
But it DOES work. Lit up light a christmas tree when I blew that Denso sparkplug.
#6
I feared mine (our own manufactured) Knock display wasn't woking on my 7 so had the manufacturer come out and test it, it was perfectly OK. I Knocked it sharply and it lit up....
I then did some controlled testing with different fuel grades, the lower the grade of mix went down, the more active the Knock display became, with (as you'd expect) simple NUL 95 RON being the worst.
Results directly matched expected onset of det in line with reduction in RON. I haven't yet managed to get it to light up using SUL/Optimax and Millers Octane+ combination.
Mike.
[Edited by Mike Tuckwood - 27/05/2002 14:43:45]
I then did some controlled testing with different fuel grades, the lower the grade of mix went down, the more active the Knock display became, with (as you'd expect) simple NUL 95 RON being the worst.
Results directly matched expected onset of det in line with reduction in RON. I haven't yet managed to get it to light up using SUL/Optimax and Millers Octane+ combination.
Mike.
[Edited by Mike Tuckwood - 27/05/2002 14:43:45]
#7
In addition, I've heard that Forged pistons tend to be more "noisy" than Cast pistons. This in turn, causes the KL to be more active on cars with the Forged items, assuming all else being equal.
I don't know if that's true, so if someone has a hard scientific explanation, plse post.
I don't know if that's true, so if someone has a hard scientific explanation, plse post.
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