SRSport

I have recently been getting a rear clonking noise when Im setting off, going over bumps and accelerating or decelerating. Im almost certain that these are the symptoms of the rear diff support bushes and with closer inspection the right looks different to the left having the inside bit sitting lower. Anyone know which one is correct? I am strongly suspecting that this came about when I had it in for the service and the rear right of the car fell off the hydraulic ramp/lift.

Can anyone tell me which one looks ok and which one doesnt?

Rear right





Rear left

shane_evans

iTrader: (1)

I would replace the pair to be on the safe side mate, if you suspect one to buggered.

SRSport

Thanks. Do you recognise from the pictures whether one is damaged? Im taking it back to the same garage tomorrow that dropped it and if it is likely to have been caused by this wanted to be able to be as well informed as possible.

shane_evans

iTrader: (1)

they both look to have the same gap at the top. I dont know if they are ment to be like that on a scooby or not, but if the metal tube in side the rubber has torn away then they will be buggered. Hence its not worth taking the chance on just changing one.

SRSport

The first two pictures show an inside bit that sits lower down. The bottom two pics show the the inside bit sitting flush with the outside bit. Sorry I dont know the technical terms but hopefully you can see what I mean.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Yeah. Looks like the right bush isn't set correctly in the mounting.

It should be centered like the left one.

Mount need to be removed and the bush pressed back in. But whilst your doing that you may as well replace them.

The main concern is after rectifiying the bush, will it all bolt back together again? You won't know until you try it. If it doesn't, something has been bent.

DT-SPD

iTrader: (7)

I would say the left bush isnt correct in your pics.

Ive just had both my outrigger bushes changed. The replacement polyurethane bushes are different between left and right for my 2006 car, the right hand side has a thicker lip at the bottom.

You can read more here https://www.scoobynet.com/drivetrain...s-or-diff.html

SRSport

Thanks Ali and DT-SPD. Ill see what the guy says later today. Is this something that can be caused if the car slips off the ramp? It fell off the rear right corner rather than the left and wasnt anything major just a slip. It might not be anything todo with it but it would be a very strange coincidence if it wasnt.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Without looking upder the whole car, its really impossible to say.

The car is capeable of having the whole rear jacked up with a trolley jack under the diff (its a main jacking point) , so those bushes can withstand the weight of the car, an impact though, who knows.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

edit: sorry mixed up the pics...the RIGHT bush is wrong...first picture.

That makes a bit more sense now

WRX-murphy

right one is wrong

SRSport

Ok, I have just got back from the garage who agreed that the right one looked wrong. After a while trying to fix it by taking the whole lot off the car and pressing it back in someone noticed that its supposed to be like that as there was a Hawkeye being broken with that part lying around in the garage that looked exactly the same. After a long time looking at and wiggling every bush you can think of and then turning attention to the shocks, moving and jiggling then, checking travel, noises etc we are non the wiser.

When everything was put on and tightened back up the noise was much less when going over bumps, it was still there for braking, accelerating and changing gear and is now more evident when turning right than turning left.

It is really frustrating and disappointing as its not something I have much more money to throw at at the moment.

SPEN555

Possibles?

Wheel Bearing.

The Infamous knocking rear strut.

SRSport

Thanks,
how do you know if it is the rear strut? The mechanic is a Subaru specialist who knew all about the strut knocking. He did various things to test it and was happy that it wasnt that.

Wouldnt a wheel baring be more constant most of the time?

53

iTrader: (41)

c.£20, nice upgrade

http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruction/Z209_ksb751.pdf

SRSport

I am thinking about this. It may end up being a case of working through the cheapest options first so if Im going to end up changing a load of stuff that didnt need replacing at least I have got something to show for it. What benefit will the diff support bushes offer though? I thought it was mainly ATBs that benefited.


Edit: allright, allright ARBs, sorry. Anti titty bars indeed

53

iTrader: (41)

Anti Titty Bars ?

SPEN555

The wheel bearing can make all sorts of noises.

In my case when mine have gone it has been like a grinding noise at over 40mph which was then more pronounced when the car went through a bend and transferred the weight of the car onto the side the bearing had gone. Below 40mph I could not hear it at all which was bizarre.

JAutos

iTrader: (5)

i had same issue when i bough my bugeye, replaced everything for it to end up been rear shocks, i had them off a few times and thought they were ok in end went for bc coilovers and gone was my noise along with 600 notes

SRSport

It could be the shocks but it just feels like its something to do with the drivetrain, more specifically the diff or hopefully the diff mounts. Its far more consistent when stop, starting, changing gear and driving round a corner to the right. Mind you I guess that knocking when driving right could mean that the rear left shock has gone as it takes more load.

SRSport

Ok Im now thinking that my original assessment is wrong. Watching as someone else drives the car over a bump I have located the knocking to the right rear wheel area. It knocks perfectly in time with the droplinks moving up or down so am hoping its this although of course they do this at the same time the strut moves up and down and a few other components, so cant be sure.

I tried listening side on but couldnt locate it as accurately. Sometimes it sounded as though it was coming from the brakes/droplink area and sometimes the D bush area so cant be sure.

SRSport

One more thing, in addition to clonking when going in a straight line, yesterday it clonked when turning left, but today it clonked mainly when turning, which is weird.

DT-SPD

iTrader: (7)

You could always undo the droplinks and test again. This might help diagnose the noise.

SRSport

Thanks. Thats a good idea. Will do. Do they need to be torqued back up or just done tightly?

DT-SPD

iTrader: (7)

Ideally they should be torqued but tight with a normal size spanner should be OK. Dont go putting a 24" breaker bar on it !!!!

SRSport

Its sentences like the last one that puts me off doing things like this as I have no idea what you mean, lol. Do you mean a spanner that has a handle 24" long meaning you would put too much leverage on it so it would be too tight and damage the threads?

DT-SPD

iTrader: (7)

Yeah thats what I meant

I would recommend wire brushing the threads and spraying some WD40 etc. on them. When I did mine the threads were corroded and took a bit of time to wind the nuts off ( the whole link spins so has to be held with a 14mm spanner whilst trying not to slip and damage the dust seal.

SRSport

Thanks,Ill jack it up and have a look at it tomorrow. Is it fairly self explanatory what you undo when you see it? I presume there are two bolts, one for the ARB and one for the arm (sorry, dont know what that part is called), is that right? Also what is that arm actually called?

DT-SPD

iTrader: (7)

The arm is called a lateral link but its usually just called a suspension arm.

There are two nuts, one each end of the droplink. Just undo one and see if there is enough space to remove it from the arm or ARB ( your choice ) and then move it out of the way. If there isnt room to remove the threaded section then you will have to undo the other nut and take the whole thing off.

If you are not sure then best call in a friend etc. to help out.

SRSport

Ill see tomorrow. It sounds simple enough. Once I know roughly what Im doing its usually OK as I like to learn on the job after researching first, i.e. what Im doing now.

From my description could it be a strut clunk? When the shocks start to knock where do they knock, e.g. near the wheel or higher up by the top mount?