scoobyboybridgend

it starts doing it at about 100 to 120 mph, and i have been told it could be the decat on turbo, i been told it should be two pipes not one as i have got going to the turbo off the exhaust, the exhaust decat is a genuine hks one the, any ideas!!!!!!!

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

More info is required (ie model of scoob, year etc) but it sounds (if its in gear)as though your suffering from overboosting, ie hitting the boost limit, or if its a JDM car, its still restricted, but not enough info.

Tony

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

I have looked at your scooby, looks like a 95 wrx stickered up, its definately not a type R (3 door shell) but can you confirm.

Ta

scoobyboybridgend

its a m reg 1995 shell imported over in 2001, was a 1.8 sport impreza, got a type r engine transfer with lots engine mods, the type r engine is out of a 99 year impreza. i was thinking along the lines of overboosting myself or as you say maximum boost, but it also does it when my boost valve is turned all way down to 0.8 bar.

Monky

Does it do it in all gears or just at that speed? I get a similar problem in mine (96 Ver3 Sti Wagon). If you floor it from a standing start and go through all the gears it's really quick, if you part throttle it, slowly build the boost up then floor it it's really slow, like almost flat power. No boost is being lost as it has a boost gauge but it feels like it looses all it's grunt.

Between 4000RPM and 5000RPM there is a strang whine/noise which I can feel through the pedal and hear through the engine which is related to the power loss, anything sound similar to yours? My old WRX did as well but all the time where as on the Sti it's intermitent.

If you were hitting the speed limiter and still running in KM's then you would know about it when you hit 112mph as the car would cut and you wouldn't be able to go any faster.

T

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Are you sure that you have had the speed limiter disconnected? Import cars are limited to 180 kph which is about 112 MPH and depending upon your speedo that could be it ??

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scoobyboybridgend

na it must of been de restricted because it does over 160mph just has the missin feeling after 120mph but there no power loss it just misses an kicks backk in

damandblast

iTrader: (7)

May be your MAF sensor, this will start with a laggy patch or lack off power in a top gear (normally 5th) to start with, however it can also get worse and start to get more noticeable, i.e. doing it in 3rd/4th/5th gear etc.

Easily checked anyway and worthwhile doing; MAF sensor is located normally in a box behind the induction kit / air filter and you may just need to check the wires. Anyway heres how to check those error codes, may tell you whats wrong with your car!

Try this;

1. Turn the ignition off
2. Find the diagnostic connectors. They are usually under the dash on the drivers side near the centre console. There should be a pair of black connectors (1), a pair of green (2)and a big yellow one (3 We don't need to worry about that!). You are looking for the black pair.
3. Connect the black connectors together.
4. Turn the ignition on but don't start it.
5. Check the engine management light comes on. If it doesn't some snake in the grass has disconnected it! This happens because people are scared of having to take the car to the dealer to have it fixed!
6. Count the number of flashes. Long flashes count for 10 and short ones are single units. So the code 38 would be 3 long flashes then 8 quick ones.
7. If it just flashes long flashes continually there are no codes stored.
8. Anyway, count the flashes and check against the list below.
9. Turn the ignition back off then disconnect the black connectors. If you mess things up just disconnect the black connectors and start again.



Fault codes
1111 No codes stored
11 Crankshaft position sensor (Don't confuse with above, usually when the crankshaft sensor if dodgy the thing won't start anyway)
12 Starter switch faulty
13 Camshaft position sensor
14 Injector no.1
15 Injector no.2
16 Injector no.3
17 Injector (You guessed it!) No.4
21 Engine temp sensor
22 Knock sensor
23 Mass air flow sensor
24 Idle air control sensor (usually accompanied by running too fast/slow)
31 Throttle position sensor
32 O2 sensor
33 Vehicle speed sensor
35 Emissions canister purge valve
38 Torque control signal (Automatics)
42 Closed throttle position
44 Turbo wastegate regulator malfunction
45 MAP sensor
49 CO adjustment resistor for older cars not fitted with cats
51 Neutral switch (Manual gearbox)

Remember just because the fault code states a component it does not automatically mean that part is knackered. ALWAYS check the wiring, connectors and battery terminals etc. before galloping down to the dealer with your wallet flapping!

scoobyboybridgend

hey thanks for that theres a good possibility that maf sensor is dodgy as my car is over fuelling, iv also been told to try a standard dump valve to see if it helps , also cam timing could be out which will cause it, and also i been told to check for air leaks which will also cause is, im losing 70bhp from this problem so its got to be sorted lol, any more help anyone got about overfueling then please send a reply, thanks

damandblast

iTrader: (7)

I would advice doing the test on the ECU firstly, since it's the cheapest way and may give you some ideas to the errors, which then means you can check the connections and wires & give them a clean, as for air leaks, again easily checked as you'll see a black/gray marking where it's leaking, try checking places near the downpipe at the top etc etc!
As for the dump valve, would be a little weird for it to cause problems unless it's fitted incorecctly or the unit has a problem.
Hope you get it sorted mate.

scoobyboybridgend

it come up code 23 which was mass air flow sensor, so im on the look out for getting a replacement, would that cause it to be over fueling then, also on my engine its got a cone filter put on it, would tha be the problem that caused the maf sensor to play up, im going to take some pics of my engine and want someone to tell me if it looks all set up right such as boost controller piping, etc. thanks for all info

damandblast

iTrader: (7)

I had the same problem, just because the code comes up doesn't mean it needs replacing, either clean it yourself, or get somewhere to clean it for you! Should do the trick, had it done on mine today and it's now running sweet as a nut!

End of the day it's either check the wires/clean it/re-fit for free, or spend around the £100 mark on a new MAF sensor that you might not need

miketurbo2000

i had the same problem with my MY99 wrx and took it to mckinstery motorsport and it turned out to be a dodgy spark plug!

scoobyboybridgend

i took maf sensor off an cleaned it with brake cleaner, and blew it with air compressor so that should of cleaned it, iv not been fast enough yet to see if problem has stopped yet but i done ecu check again and it still came up code 23 maf sensor.

also iv just had it serviced last week so its got brand new competion platinum spark plugs so they shouldnt be dodgy and it was doing this problem before the service

damandblast

iTrader: (7)

The error code will be there unless you clear the codes first, which is why it will still show 23; maf sensor.

I can find the instructions on how to clear the codes once i'm home later.

scoobyboybridgend

ok let me know on how to clear the codes when you get chance then, cheers mate

damandblast

iTrader: (7)

How to clear them!

1. Make sure the engine is up to normal temperature (the cooling fans have just turned off)
2. Turn the ignition off
3. Connect the green connectors together
4. and connect the black ones together too
5. Switch the ignition on but don't start it.
6. Check the management light is on.
7. Drive the car for about a minute above 10mph
8. Stop and rev the car to at least 2000 revs for at least a minute
9. Check the light flashes 4 long flashes (Indicating fault code 1111)
10. Switch the ignition off and disconnect the green and black plugs
11. Thats you! Easy wasn't it?