What will happen if I do this?
#1
Just trying to get me tiny brain round this.
1) If I fit a dawes I can vary the boost, to a point where I hit fuel cut.
2) If I fit a fuel cut defender I can move the fuel cut point to a higher level.
3) I can now achieve higher boost, and more power?
4) How do I know what boost my engine can take?
Please help me, my head hurts.
1) If I fit a dawes I can vary the boost, to a point where I hit fuel cut.
2) If I fit a fuel cut defender I can move the fuel cut point to a higher level.
3) I can now achieve higher boost, and more power?
4) How do I know what boost my engine can take?
Please help me, my head hurts.
#7
This one has been asked so much everywhere lately...
I think the only real definate answer is another question
Q. How long do you want your engine to last?
a) Really Long time - Leave it alone.
b) Long time - move it to about 16PSI (no fuel cut dfnder needed)
c) Some time - Put it to 17PSI.
d) Not long - Put it to 18PSI.
e) A little while - Put it to 19PSI.
f) Start->Drive->Bang - Put it to > 20PSI
Yes I know the answers are silly, but then there is no real definative answer. 16PSI is deemed relatively safe for the majority of vehicles, but yours may be different so above all be careful.
I run 16PSI on my MY00 with standard ECU, but I also run a Front Mount IC which cools the intake charge more consistenly and also a full turbo back exhaust.
HTH
Brett
I think the only real definate answer is another question
Q. How long do you want your engine to last?
a) Really Long time - Leave it alone.
b) Long time - move it to about 16PSI (no fuel cut dfnder needed)
c) Some time - Put it to 17PSI.
d) Not long - Put it to 18PSI.
e) A little while - Put it to 19PSI.
f) Start->Drive->Bang - Put it to > 20PSI
Yes I know the answers are silly, but then there is no real definative answer. 16PSI is deemed relatively safe for the majority of vehicles, but yours may be different so above all be careful.
I run 16PSI on my MY00 with standard ECU, but I also run a Front Mount IC which cools the intake charge more consistenly and also a full turbo back exhaust.
HTH
Brett
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#8
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Just make sure your car's getting enough fuel to match the increased air your forcing through, so add a remap or fuel controller to your list.
But....at what point will the internals buy the farm, even assuming everything else is spot on?
As John mentions, the biggest danger is not understanding the reactions to any given action.
G'day Brett - in Darwin, you'd need the front mount Did you notice any difference with just this swap (increased lag and/or performance)?
Richard
But....at what point will the internals buy the farm, even assuming everything else is spot on?
As John mentions, the biggest danger is not understanding the reactions to any given action.
G'day Brett - in Darwin, you'd need the front mount Did you notice any difference with just this swap (increased lag and/or performance)?
Richard
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I wouldn't run 18 PSI in Darwin! But in Scotland in winter I think my engine will go on for ages - it is only 1PSI higher than PPP.
On a 30 degree summer day (if we ever get one) I would go to 16 PSI - and would probably drop anyway.
On a 30 degree summer day (if we ever get one) I would go to 16 PSI - and would probably drop anyway.
#10
As my car (MY96) has the TD05 turbo which is larger than the MY00 I believe, what would be the equivelant safe boost level for me to run, equivelant to 16psi on the MY00
Cheers for any help....
PS Anyone recommend an accurate boost gauge? in PSI preferably.
Cheers for any help....
PS Anyone recommend an accurate boost gauge? in PSI preferably.
#12
No I agree with you totally Rich, I just want to keep it fairly reliable. I had an MR2 Turbo and I added 5psi to it with a Dawes style device and a free flow filter and it had a big bore exhaust
on it already. I had to fit a chip to corrupt the overboost cut which was at about 10psi, car was hitting it with just exhaust and filter... did 40,000miles with it running 15psi without a problem..also mainly on 95ron too.
I think the Subaru engine is more complicated and more likely to not like the playing with.
Saying that what is the PSI of the PPP on an MY96? anyone know?
I am running Optimax and occasionally SUL when I cannot get Optimax... just want a little bit more power (how it all starts).
If my engine breaks then it breaks but I don't want to be in categories c,d,e or f
What is the conversion from Bar to PSI? Had a PSI gauge before cost me loads, left it in a car I wrote off (doh) wasn't in the right frame of mind to go and remove it... so I used to working in PSI....
Cheers for your views and help
ho ho JGM
on it already. I had to fit a chip to corrupt the overboost cut which was at about 10psi, car was hitting it with just exhaust and filter... did 40,000miles with it running 15psi without a problem..also mainly on 95ron too.
I think the Subaru engine is more complicated and more likely to not like the playing with.
Saying that what is the PSI of the PPP on an MY96? anyone know?
I am running Optimax and occasionally SUL when I cannot get Optimax... just want a little bit more power (how it all starts).
If my engine breaks then it breaks but I don't want to be in categories c,d,e or f
What is the conversion from Bar to PSI? Had a PSI gauge before cost me loads, left it in a car I wrote off (doh) wasn't in the right frame of mind to go and remove it... so I used to working in PSI....
Cheers for your views and help
ho ho JGM
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Agree, but only if you know what you are doing and understand the risks you are taking. The trouble is if I tell everyone to raise their fuel cuts, someone's engine will go pop as people who do not know what they are doing will do it and push it too far. It just needs a bit of thought and knowledge that is all.
#15
I don't intend touching the fuel cut...
about what boost can you run before hitting the fuel cut?
Is there a way or any point in fitting a fan to the intercooler?
Not much room obviously... anyone thought about or tried this?
My Toyota had one and I set it to run all the time so as not to get any hot spots forming on the intercooler, slightly different as it was a mid-engined car so cooling was more of a problem but the same priciple applies.
about what boost can you run before hitting the fuel cut?
Is there a way or any point in fitting a fan to the intercooler?
Not much room obviously... anyone thought about or tried this?
My Toyota had one and I set it to run all the time so as not to get any hot spots forming on the intercooler, slightly different as it was a mid-engined car so cooling was more of a problem but the same priciple applies.
#16
I absolutely agree with John word for word.
The people I'm talking about are those who say "don't do it...ever!" even if you are prepared to take the risk yourself (and at least have some idea of what your doing).
I am and I couldn't give a shiny sh1te if my engine pops, if it does I'll have to sort out my own mess. But what winds me up is having people give me grief just for running high boost. Not refering to anyone on this thread, just generally. I know they are probably trying to help, and maybe I should be a bit more tolerant.
p.s. JGM2, fuel cut on our model is 1.15bar (I'll let you work it out in psi yourself for practice)
Heard of interccoler fans being used once but I don't reckon they'd do much good. Once car is moving, they'd be fairly redundant I'd say.
Cheers
Rich
The people I'm talking about are those who say "don't do it...ever!" even if you are prepared to take the risk yourself (and at least have some idea of what your doing).
I am and I couldn't give a shiny sh1te if my engine pops, if it does I'll have to sort out my own mess. But what winds me up is having people give me grief just for running high boost. Not refering to anyone on this thread, just generally. I know they are probably trying to help, and maybe I should be a bit more tolerant.
p.s. JGM2, fuel cut on our model is 1.15bar (I'll let you work it out in psi yourself for practice)
Heard of interccoler fans being used once but I don't reckon they'd do much good. Once car is moving, they'd be fairly redundant I'd say.
Cheers
Rich
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JGM
I run a 95 WRX that has the same TD05 turbo but a different ECU (I think). With the Dawes I'm running at 1.0 bar (14.5 PSI) on the road and I'm not going higher than that, since the only other mods is an exhaust and filter. Fueling seems OK according to the guys at PE.
Fuel cut on your car I think is 15.5 PSI, it is on mine.
Hope this helps
Justin
I run a 95 WRX that has the same TD05 turbo but a different ECU (I think). With the Dawes I'm running at 1.0 bar (14.5 PSI) on the road and I'm not going higher than that, since the only other mods is an exhaust and filter. Fueling seems OK according to the guys at PE.
Fuel cut on your car I think is 15.5 PSI, it is on mine.
Hope this helps
Justin
#18
If I want to run my MY98 UK Turbo at 16PSi, what will I need to buy ( besides the Dawes Device, and boost gauge )? Is there anything else I need to consider? If I continue to use Optimax will I need to buy some booster too?!?!? etc....
Cheers.
Cheers.
#22
Never is!
I was going to add 1psi to start with as really my engine needs to be in category a or b and currently has 93,000miles on the clock.
Someone want to sell me a Boost gauge?
edited because the categories are lettered not numbered!
[Edited by Jolly Green Monster 2 - 2/8/2002 10:41:17 AM]
I was going to add 1psi to start with as really my engine needs to be in category a or b and currently has 93,000miles on the clock.
Someone want to sell me a Boost gauge?
edited because the categories are lettered not numbered!
[Edited by Jolly Green Monster 2 - 2/8/2002 10:41:17 AM]
#23
It's a bit like saying is it safe to smoke?
Everyone says NO DON'T DO IT!!!
But you could do it and live to be 100. Or you could drop dead at 46. It's a gamble.
You can however, minimise that gamble.
I have a Blitz boost gauge (HKS are excellent too JGM2 but both are in bar I think)
I run 1.4 bar in 5th once the turbo has got hot (before that it's 1.3). Risky, but no reason to start crapping myself.
The Air fuel meter I've got is on the richest mark when nailing it, so strictly, there shouldn't be a problem.
I've got a HKD FCD to raise the fuel cut and a HKS AFR to richen up the mixture a bit. I also run optimax with booster so, given that these cars run rich usually anyway, I think I'm fairly safe in terms of fuelling.
I've also been doing this for several months and I drive the car pretty damned hard.
At the end of the day, it's your car, do what you want, then if it goes pop, you've only got yourself to blame.
I understand that people advising caution have your best interests at heart but imagine if we never took risks. How boring would life be?
We wouldn't have got to the moon if everyone thought "nice idea but what if...."
I acknowledge that my car may go bang one day, but so what? I have to pay for a rebuild. That could happen to Billy Bogstandard if his cambelt snaps (and that can happen to anyone at anytime) so what do you do, not drive your car in case it breaks?
BOLLOX, you take precautions , like getting it changed regularly, so as long as you take the same precautions with modding and don't just wind the boost up to 2.0 bar and run 95 ron, I don't see the problem.
I'll probably get flamed to the max now!
Rich
p.s. 1.4 bar is about 20.3 psi but I am on a TD05.
[Edited by RICH WILD - 2/8/2002 10:42:21 AM]
Everyone says NO DON'T DO IT!!!
But you could do it and live to be 100. Or you could drop dead at 46. It's a gamble.
You can however, minimise that gamble.
I have a Blitz boost gauge (HKS are excellent too JGM2 but both are in bar I think)
I run 1.4 bar in 5th once the turbo has got hot (before that it's 1.3). Risky, but no reason to start crapping myself.
The Air fuel meter I've got is on the richest mark when nailing it, so strictly, there shouldn't be a problem.
I've got a HKD FCD to raise the fuel cut and a HKS AFR to richen up the mixture a bit. I also run optimax with booster so, given that these cars run rich usually anyway, I think I'm fairly safe in terms of fuelling.
I've also been doing this for several months and I drive the car pretty damned hard.
At the end of the day, it's your car, do what you want, then if it goes pop, you've only got yourself to blame.
I understand that people advising caution have your best interests at heart but imagine if we never took risks. How boring would life be?
We wouldn't have got to the moon if everyone thought "nice idea but what if...."
I acknowledge that my car may go bang one day, but so what? I have to pay for a rebuild. That could happen to Billy Bogstandard if his cambelt snaps (and that can happen to anyone at anytime) so what do you do, not drive your car in case it breaks?
BOLLOX, you take precautions , like getting it changed regularly, so as long as you take the same precautions with modding and don't just wind the boost up to 2.0 bar and run 95 ron, I don't see the problem.
I'll probably get flamed to the max now!
Rich
p.s. 1.4 bar is about 20.3 psi but I am on a TD05.
[Edited by RICH WILD - 2/8/2002 10:42:21 AM]
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