dowser

Hi All

Can someone confirm the operation of the lambdalink please?

I've just fitted mine, on cruise I get no lights (just the power led) - it's only when using the throttle that I start to get lights, a light throttle will see one of the ambers or last green.

WOT gives the first green only (which shows as cruise on the lambdalink display.....), cycling through amber and back up on gearchanges.

I'm concerned 'cos I modified the whole thing to fit into the cupholder....this involved mounting the electrolytic cap and variable resistor off the pcb. Wonder if I need to trim it now?

Many Thanks
Richard

Beastie

iTrader: (2)

Sorry chaps but this has been bugging me for ages but, what is WOT.
Your answer will make me very happy.
Beastie

EvilBevel

Wide Open Throttle

SecretAgentMan

Middle green (~12:1) is where U'll want it to be during WOT....any more than that is just to lower EGT's, and keep the engine on the safe side.

My Lambdalink has a weird issue with the main headlights being on - it reads 1 led leaner than with them off.

I used the lambdalink to tweak the on boost fuelling (running in the dark turnip winter conditions with headlights on) - and I noticed the lambdavoltage on my tuning module didn't show the same AFR as the Lambdalink.

Get a voltmeter and check what the voltage is at the ECU...around .87 should be middle green led, maybe flickering the last one (>12:1).

/J

SecretAgentMan

...IIRC the stock ECU overfuels really badly, so you should see the last green led during WOT.
Theo...you've got more experience with the JECS...how rich does it actually run during WOT and a high speed cruise?

/J

dowser

Thanks Theo - did something stupid

To explain - I've mounted just the led's into the cupholder, going left to right; 3 green, 3 amber, 2 red........

So I'm then comparing this to the original lambdalink blackbox and have been reading in the same order....assuming 1st green is 1%CO...when it's really 9%....doh!

Interesting that you get 3 led's on at the same time though on WOT - I just get the last green. Trying between 50-90% throttle will see any two of the greens light, but never three together.

I also see nothing at idle.

Thanks
Richard
Beastie - WOT = 'wide open throttle'

EvilBevel

D'oh, I told porkies again (well, only the three lights bit). I meant in my case it switches between last green & next to last green very quickly, but indeed only one light on at the same time.

I was confusing with my Knocklink that has all lights on all the time (is that bad BTW ? )

Agree with SAM that it is debatable if this is just safety/wasting fuel or not). But we both agree that 5 CO is a bit lean ?

JECS should indeed run very rich, no matter what exhausts etc... 9 to 10 CO is the norm, individual cases excluded. So yes, there is "room for improvement", I just never choose to go there.

At idle (warm idle) you *should* see the disco light show though ? It's the ECU that tries to "hunt" stoich <sp?> on the JECS (i.e. the only reason for having a lambda sensor at all )

Over to Bob I suppose

SecretAgentMan

*rofl* turned the leds teh other way around eh?

I've "borrowed" +12 vdc at the ECU's main feed (blue/yellow pair going into the ECU), and ground at one of the bolts that holds the ECU - this way it should read the same as the ECU does....but no...I know of several other cars with the same issue, which isn't a problem as long as you know about it.



/J - no rocking led's on idle (Link brain transplant )

SecretAgentMan

IIRC Big Red (tm) is a Bad Thing (tm)....and I don think Pat has the exclusive right to both these "terms".

dowser

Thanks Again

I'll email Bob/Branko regarding the disco show I'm assuming the PPP ecu uses the same lambda control at idle as a standard JECS?

SAM - I found the ecu mounting bolts not to be true earth (but then, my DVM's battery is a bit low too) - ended up using the brace bar up above the ecu (must remove glove box to get to it) - I'll try the lights thing later today.

Re. the led order....yeah - a classic case of wanting to get the damn thing fitted and missing the simple things...imagine my surprise when a saw a lambdalink photo this morning Still, I *ain't* taking that cupholder back out!

The only time I see 'Big Red' is while tapping the mounting area with a key to ensure it's still working..does the engine survive seeing it in real life?!

Richard

EvilBevel

>>imagine my surprise when a saw a lambdalink photo this morning

ROFL

Just remember when tuning later on: the more fuel you remove, the richer it will look

Just for the sake of it ... I was joking about all lights being on all the time on the Knocklink

I've only seen the big light once, and that was at lift off on track.

Theo

john banks

See my recent 5 pages DIY AFR meter for £10 thread - it is in drivetrain within the last few days and has tables and lots of info.

I think you need to know that the Lambdalink is displaying correctly especially if you have hacked/bodged it a bit

You could get a 1 Mega ohm resistor and a 100K variable in series from +12V to 0V and adjust it. From the side tap of the pot put a dummy value into your lambda meter (WITH LAMBDA SENSOR DISCONNECTED!!) and cross reference the DVM and lambda readings - see my other thread for the voltages and AFR values.

If you have moved a pot it may need adjusting?

PPP does float around stoich at warm idle and cruise and you should have a veritable disco with a lambdalink. When too cold the sensor reads very little, but it only takes a few minutes to heat up.

dowser

Thanks John. Hacked and bodged? Can't deny it, too embarassed to even take a photo - I'll compare voltages tonight, suspect pot needs re-tuning

Cheers
Richard

EvilBevel

Richard, doesn't sound good to me ...

>>WOT gives the first green only (which shows as cruise on the lambdalink display.....), cycling through amber and back up on gearchanges.

This either means your car runs pretty lean, or indeed a problem with your lambdalink (or sensor ?)

My car at WOT shows all green lets lit and the last one "flickering", meaning about 8-9 % CO. This is rich, but only one green led/orange led sounds too lean.

At cruise, it's normal to not see any lights. At tickover, you should see the lambda closed loop cycle between the first 2 ligths/off/3 lights/off/2 lights etc.

HTH,

Theo

[Edited by EvilBevel - 2/4/2002 8:52:03 AM]

dowser

Thanks SAM - yep, it's a PPP too & looks very rich....which bodes well for future work Where did you earth the lambdalink sensor input? And the +12v? Might explain the lights causing it to underead.

Do you get any leds at idle? I don't, nor when cruising at 150kph....

I'm concerned 'cos I had to flat mount the variable resistor, and wonder if it needs tweaking. There was a post somewhere which showed voltage at the ecu pin and what it represented - anyone know where it is? I can then check & re-calibrate it if necessary.

Thanks Again
Richard

[Edited by dowser - 2/4/2002 9:33:51 AM]