pslewis

Sat in a massive queue inching forward at 3MPH, stopping and moving slowly again - for about 45minutes.

During this crawl my Clutch effectively 'Locked-Up' ... the pedal got REALLY stiff - had I been a weakling I wouldn't have been able to move it at all.

Also the biting point was right at the top of the travel ...... usually it is halfway up.

It cleared itself and has been normal since ... do I need to worry?

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

I know nothing about these things but I'd say it overheated and you've got a temporary reprieve. I think it will get worse over time and fail.

HTH
F

pslewis

I was hoping that it just got stuck on the shaft and then freed itself??

What is the price of a new clutch?

And would I have to declare to the Insurance Company if it was not a Subaru clutch?

911

Mad old Dodger:

Get that stock clutch bled NOW with some of Girling's finest Dot 5 fluid.
Get all the Subaru stuff out of there and all will be well in the que's in the future.

Leave your insurance company alone, they don't deserve it.

Nice to 'see' you alive and well Pete!

Graham.

pslewis

Is it easy to bleed the clutch??

Same procedure as barkes?

Where's the bleed nipple?

Why DOT5 when I drive like a girls blouse?

911

Yes, easy.
No, very different.
Bleed nipple is under the intercooler. If you want to avaiod a long morning with spanners, find a dealer/specialist. Can give you a step-by-step guide if you wish.
The Dot 5 is used because it has a much higher boiling point than dot 4.
My MY99 UK turbo had the same clutch trouble as yours did and the bleed-through with dot 5 fixed it for good.

Graham

pslewis

Cheers Graham ... its the first time its ever done it - maybe it won't again?

I don't fear spanners ... a step-by-step guide would be good

Pete

911

OK:
Remove the TMIC unless you can get the car to a ramp and reach up!
The clutch slave is bolted to the top of the g'box (2x14mm A/F)
Remove the slave off the box.
Remove the 6 mm dia shaft out of the slave and clamp the piston right down into the slave.
Break open the nipple with pipe/jar like bleeding the brakes.
Pump the old fluid out and keep topping-up with fresh Dot5.
Flush all the old out with the new, just like bleeding brakes.

Replace everything obviously removing the clamp at the last moment and replacing the shaft. Dab of grease on the rounded end of the shaft that mates with the clutch fork. Replace the light (long) spring from the bell housing to the release arm.
Replace the TMIC (pain)

Clutch pedal will feel no different!
Clutch in long traffic que will be great.

Hope this helps,
Graham.

pslewis

Cheers, I have a 4-post lift ...... will that mean I don't need to take Intercooler off??

Pete

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Mine does this in traffic too. Always put it down to over heating fluid.
This thread has just confirmed my thoughts.

911

With a ramp you can reach-up to the slave and get to it.

The issue is the heat off the turbo is directly under/surrounding the clutch reservoir/pipe. The gearbox heat is conducted directly to the slave too.
In traffic the whole lot 'cooks' until all is lost.

A (good) Subaru Dealer told me all about it and did mine on my UK turbo my99 when I had one as a Company Car.

Graham

twistybits

Shock Horror.......

PSLewis accepts that uprated fluids (Brake fluid in this instance) might be better than the stock item recommended by Subaru......

pslewis

Please show where I have accepted uprated fluids?

911

In Pete's defence, Dot 5 fluid is not uprated, just a better fluid for this job and from Halfords etc. No big deal, just a good way to get over a common problem realy.
Graham.

pslewis

Why is the Intercooler a pain to remove and replace?

Coffin Dodger

Because the stock rigid plastic pipes are a tight fit and don't have any give. Also prone to split as they get older. Much easier if you have a nice aftermarket set of silicon hoses on the intercooler, and they don't tend to split either