Adjustable Diff guide? (Is this in the right section?)
#1
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Adjustable Diff guide? (Is this in the right section?)
Hi
I tried searching for it, but I gave in.
Is there a guide/manual in how to use it?
I know the Lock is 4WD (?) and the default is RWD? - is this correct?
Any info would be great, and apologies if it's in the wrong section.
Thanks in advance!
I tried searching for it, but I gave in.
Is there a guide/manual in how to use it?
I know the Lock is 4WD (?) and the default is RWD? - is this correct?
Any info would be great, and apologies if it's in the wrong section.
Thanks in advance!
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No, the car is always AWD, your power is just transferred to either the front or rear changing the handling characteristics of the car.
What ever you do, dont use lock, its not a good idea.
https://www.scoobynet.com/drivetrain...anslation.html
Tony
What ever you do, dont use lock, its not a good idea.
https://www.scoobynet.com/drivetrain...anslation.html
Tony
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Originally Posted by TonyBurns
No, the car is always AWD, your power is just transferred to either the front or rear changing the handling characteristics of the car.
What ever you do, dont use lock, its not a good idea.
https://www.scoobynet.com/drivetrain...anslation.html
Tony
What ever you do, dont use lock, its not a good idea.
https://www.scoobynet.com/drivetrain...anslation.html
Tony
Hmmmn... I was of the understanding that the "only use locked diff mode on snow or loose" was a myth and that using it on tarmac will not damage the transmission. That said i'd only use the diff out of the open position if it was particularly slippy and i wasn't in the mood to play Ari Vatanen every corner
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So I guess the lock mode would be good for winter? Or I'm misunderstanding again. Argggggh
I read the whole thing and then I get a bit lost.....
Isn't there something that tells you want
[ lock ]
V
V
v
v
[]
means or whatever it's like on the modes/dash ??
I read the whole thing and then I get a bit lost.....
Isn't there something that tells you want
[ lock ]
V
V
v
v
[]
means or whatever it's like on the modes/dash ??
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After a couple of winters with proper snow, i've found that you only need the diff set on the first or second orange for most situations.
The only situation that more locking is needed, is when pulling away from standstill in deepish snow or uphill. Once underway reduce the locking as the more it's locked the greater the understeer will be. I was shocked the first time I tried to get round a tight roundabout in the snow with it set on third orange.
You will never need to drive with it fully locked.
The only situation that more locking is needed, is when pulling away from standstill in deepish snow or uphill. Once underway reduce the locking as the more it's locked the greater the understeer will be. I was shocked the first time I tried to get round a tight roundabout in the snow with it set on third orange.
You will never need to drive with it fully locked.
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This applies to driving on SNOW:
I have a '98 wagon with a 6MT DCCD/Suretrac gearbox. What I've discovered is that the car WILL understeer if you increase locking AND drive carefully (light throttle, gentle inputs).
Instead, imagine that you are Petter Solberg. Then increase locking to 50% or even higher. As you approach a turn, UNSETTLE the balance of the car. This can be done in a number of ways, I usually steer the opposite direction - brake - get the car sliding - steer into the corner again - FULL throttle.
You are now in complete control of your car using your throttlepedal! You can leave your steering wheel dead centre or do minor corrrections - but you time the corner exit and angle of attack with your throttle pedal. Loud inputs - wide angle of attack.
Now, with the drivetrain fully loaded - the front LSD/Suretrac diff awakens from the dead. Instead of making your car an understeering monster, it DRAGS your front wheels towards the apex/corner.
At first, this feels wrong. The car feels like it is totally out of control, but you have to let it FLOAT. In reality, YOU are in control. Much more so than when you were "feathering" your controls and boring your AWD transmission to death - understeering into the opposite lane
You do not have to drive like a maniac. This driving style can be applied even at low speeds with some training. At slow speeds, get it "sliding" using either the clutch or abrupt throttle input. The key point is to let the car "float", only then does the advanced AWD drivetrain come to its right.
I have a '98 wagon with a 6MT DCCD/Suretrac gearbox. What I've discovered is that the car WILL understeer if you increase locking AND drive carefully (light throttle, gentle inputs).
Instead, imagine that you are Petter Solberg. Then increase locking to 50% or even higher. As you approach a turn, UNSETTLE the balance of the car. This can be done in a number of ways, I usually steer the opposite direction - brake - get the car sliding - steer into the corner again - FULL throttle.
You are now in complete control of your car using your throttlepedal! You can leave your steering wheel dead centre or do minor corrrections - but you time the corner exit and angle of attack with your throttle pedal. Loud inputs - wide angle of attack.
Now, with the drivetrain fully loaded - the front LSD/Suretrac diff awakens from the dead. Instead of making your car an understeering monster, it DRAGS your front wheels towards the apex/corner.
At first, this feels wrong. The car feels like it is totally out of control, but you have to let it FLOAT. In reality, YOU are in control. Much more so than when you were "feathering" your controls and boring your AWD transmission to death - understeering into the opposite lane
You do not have to drive like a maniac. This driving style can be applied even at low speeds with some training. At slow speeds, get it "sliding" using either the clutch or abrupt throttle input. The key point is to let the car "float", only then does the advanced AWD drivetrain come to its right.
Last edited by hmhaga; 20 October 2006 at 11:35 AM.
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