4x4chris

Right! Got me exedy clutch and tomorrow (and probably Sunday) im going to swap it with my very slippy one.
Think i've got everything i need, just one question for those of you have done it before, do you think i'll be able to get away with just axle stands at the front or shall i use a combination of ramps and stands?? and if so, is better to have ramps at the back, or the front?

(its a 93 WRX btw)

ta

Chris

Eprom

You will need to get the car as high as possible with safety in mind, the box is very heavy, so two people will be required, or better still use a gearbox cradle, (like a trolley jack but designed for lowering out boxes).

I would use ramps at front and stands at the rear, you need enough clearance to get the box out from under the car.

Also look carefully at the flywheel, if it shows signs of surface cracks it will need to be replaced or surface ground, or you be doing the same thing all over again in 5000 miles, when it starts to judder, not a nice job but take your time with plenty of WD40 on all those rusted up nuts.

RON

Chris, I see you're in Dorset..... me too, i've now doen my gearbox twice, you need axle stands, not ramps, cos you need to get the driveshafts out of the gearbox, and therefore need the wheels to be movable...... also, the box wil be stuck to the engine, expect trouble.....

4x4chris

cheers guys
hey RON, you're a Dorsetarian to eh! What do you drive, i'll keep an eye out!
(mines a silver 93 WRX)....

soooo, axle stands at the front and back you reckon?

got a mate helping me, so we have two pairs of hands to lug the gearbox...
i just hope it doesnt take longer than the weekend!

any tips for releasing the box from the engine, apart from whacking it? cos no doubt it will be stuck...

911

Appropriate curses/swear words/bandaids/beer/food/beer/cold chisel/very big hammer/good mates/extended axle stands/a gallon or 3 of WD40/beer/big tube of copperslip for re-assembly/promise to your mate (who has now gone home) you will NEVER do it again/find the number of someone you can pay to do the job.

It is a bitch if the box has never been off before. The 2 dowls locating the box/engine are just so... you will remember the experience ALL of your life.

Take your time, do not underestimate the weight of the box as it comes free.

I've done box and rear diff 3 times so I know what I'm talking about.

Graham

RON

One thing that is worth remembering,

Once the gearbox is off the engine, the engine will want to 'flop' forwards, making getting the box back on awkward, it might be worth trying to ensure that the engine doesn't go down too much at the front, with say a lump of wood propped between the wings somehow... not ON the wings obviously..... and then tie the engine 'up' somehow......I did my box on my own, and i managed to use a pice of scaffold tube on the strut turrets and then a ratcher strap to hoist it up into postition... not easy though....

Also, once you've got it done, get yourself along to one of our 'Dorset meets', the next one is Dec 5th at the Fox and Hounds just off Wimborne bypass... details in southern forum....



Good luck!!

FB Tuning

iTrader: (30)

You'll need the back of the car on axle stands, as you will need to rotate the prop ( and rear wheels) to undo the four 12mm prop bolts

You can prop the front of the engine up with a jack positioned on the exhaust manifold cross pipe.

I might have missed a few things off the list, but here goes...


Jack up car and put onto 4 axle stands (the higher the better) or a ramp
Disconnect battery
Drain box oil
Remove Intercooler and starter motor.
Remove clutch slave cylinder and clutch fork spring.
Undo Hex plug under starter - in the side of the gearbox casing (10mm Allen Key)
Withdraw Clutch fork pivot pin, by screwing an M6 bolt into it.
Pull the clutch fork up, to disengage from release bearing.
Remove downpipe if necessary
Disconnect prop and gear linkage and gearbox cradle
Drift out the 2 roll pins in the front inner CVs with a straight punch
Remove the remainder of the bellhousing bolts - The bottom 2 are nuts on studs. It helps if you can remove the studs too
You may need to put a jack of some sort under the box and use a couple of prybars to split the engine from the box
Whilst the box is hanging down but still attached to the engine, you should be able to push it to one side enough to part the inner CV from the stub axle on the other side. Then do the same for the other side.

Remove gearbox, replace clutch then replace gearbox

Simple


TBH, if you have an engine hoist it is easier (and quicker) to remove the engine, if you are working on the floor without the use of a ramp

911

Tried it both ways and cannot say which I found the best.
I did all three times on my own but using a Drapper gearbox jack which I think is mandatory if you are doing a 5 speed box out.

I have never managed to get enough space to pop a CV without cracking one or even both front ball joints.

Worst job on an Impreza. (IMO)
Graham.

RON

Yeh, very true, hence the need for axle stands and not ramps eh..... oddly, i did manage to do a rear diff without removing the driveshafts from the hub end.... or even yndoing the susp arms......... wasn't easy though....

4x4chris

cheeer for those fine words fellas....
.... i'll let you know how we get on tonite!

chris

4x4chris

rightttttt. so far so good,

been pretty slow going, it is fr!ckin cold out there!

removed intercooler, starter, clutch slave
done the clutch fork
removed the pins from the inner CVs
loosened the transmission bracket
attempted to split the prop in half at the UJ about half way down the car, just beyond the rubber donut but cant even get one bolt off, never mind all four
so was thinking about undoing the rubber donut and hoping that when we get the remainder of the bolts off the bell housing we will be able to slide the gearbox backwards...
... any thoughts?!

ta

Chris

RON

What about taking the prop off at the diff Chris...?? thats what i did on mine, but yours is an early one isn't it.... must be a bit different.....

911

You will need to really take the 4 bolts off at the rear Diff flange and drop the centre rubber 'bearing' off the floor pan. The prop then slides easy out of the box. Watchout for the gearbox oil. you have drained the oil?

I am surpried if you can do it all with the downpipe in place, but good luck. Best to leave it on if possible.

Have you removed the starter?

You have done the easy bit. Splitting the box off will be a challenge unless you are REALLY lucky.

I've been putting my turbo/headers/up pipe/down pipe TMIC etc back on today, and it IS bloody cold!

Glad someone else is suffering
Graham.

4x4chris

grrrrr, arggghgghghghhghghghgh!

okay, it was a slooowwww, slow, cold day

got prop out, managed to prise the gearbox out at the top, then eventually got it out at the bottom as well.
it was about 20mm clear at the top left of the bell housing (as you look at it from the drivers seat), and was about 10mm clear from the bottom right

just cant seem to get it any further back....
also haven't managed to remove the driveshafts yet, not enough sideways play in the box to do this...

i would say it needs to come back another 20mm to be clear of the studs and those annoying dowel things...

any more tips?!

bl00dy annoyed cos now ive got to leave the car all week, until next weekend!
why didnt i attempt this in the summer!!

911

We have all been there.
The box must be even gap top and bottom, the whole lot is binding on the input shaft.
Get it even then mm by mm ease it off. The Dowels are longer than you think. I had exactly the same on my first attempt. Took me 2 hours to get the friggin thing off the studs and free.
You will NOT get it off like it is.
Grt rthose CV off too now.

Bitch isn't it.

You have our sympathy.

Graham.

4x4chris

hmmm, yeah that does make sense about the input shaft...

need to hammer stuff in underneath then, to get it even....
fun fun...

confused as to how to get the CVs off though, without removing the hubs??

thanks for all your help guys... i'll get there eventually!

RON

When i did mine, i managed to 'twist' the gearbox enough to get one side out, and then the other......

See if you can raise the back of the box on a jack rather than 'hammer' things into the gap, you don't want to damage the flanges....... or.... make sure the engine isn't tipping forwards....

911

Ron is right, the front of the engine is free to tip forwards. The dowles are about 15mm long iirc so should be free.
Jack up the engine on the manifold or front of the sump (use a block of wood to spread the load.
On my car I always split the lower ball joint which allows the saft/hub to be pulled away so releasing the CV's. They split real easy (promise!)
Graham.

chris4x4

okay cool, some things to try there... thanks.

probably a stupid question, but how shall i split the ball joint?
i assume i can do it with the wheel etc in situ?
i've got a ball joint splitter, but ive had trouble with these before, where it hacks away at the rubber...

Chris

911

No!
Take the wheels off.
WD40 the castleated nuts at the base of the strut and the wishbone.
Remove split pin and nut (19mm I think)
With a light pry with a good screwdrive the tapers will pop. This is because the taper angle used is not the usual angle, it is far larger.
If you car hs alloy wishbones there is a sleeve in there too.
There should be no need for a taper wedge.

Graham.

pugoetru

last time i done my clutch i took the engine out some people said it was easier to take the box out having read this thread i think not !!

My clutch needs done again soon and i will take the engine out i think no propshaft in way no driveshafts to remove no VERY HEAVY gearbox to fall on my head

4x4chris

nothing has been too much of a headache...
i havent spent 3 hours on one bolt for example, something i have done many a time on previous cars (FORD!)...
...its just been taking a lot longer than i anticipated...
its a great job to do in someways though, it makes you realise how well engineered an Impreza is...

thanks for all the advice guys, i REALLY appreciate it, esp 911 and RON... i will remember what has been said and hopefully this time on Saturday, although more likely Sunday i should be done!


Chris

RON

No Problem Chris, if you think you're gonna get really stuck, i could even (at a push) come down and lend a hand, or even just advice on the scene....

Scoobynet is (to me) about helping people, and sharing info and tips on doing jobs....

Good luck...

Mark A

iTrader: (1)

This can be a real bitch of a job, but once you've done it then the next time it should take you half the time

A gearbox jack, the blue & black scissor one is an excellent buy. Got mine for 1/2 price off *bay

You might want to do one other thing if you've dropped the box out. The gearbox mount on the standard car is pretty weak and not expensive to replace with a STi item.

Not sure I'd take the engine out to change the clutch. You still have to move the gearbox back, remove the rad, release the pipes & loom etc

I agree with Ron, a number of helpful people make Scoobynet was it is

Mark A

911

Participation is everything.
You will learn so much.
Greasemonkey and Jolly Green monster were high profile practical types a few years ago and got me sorted on several occations.

You get out what you put in (at least)

Graham.

tweenierob

No one else take out the clutch pivot pin then

Rob

911

Post #7 if 4x4 has been reading the instructions correctly.
If not then this will be the reason!
I've assumed he has been following instructions!

Graham

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

This the way I prefer to do it too. Especially as I have a 6 speed on a classic. The 6MT is very bloody heavy.
Its a pain in the neck job whichever way you choose to do it though.

Have tried to change the clutch with the removing the box method but unless you have a ramp and a transmission jack then personally I think the engine removal option is the easiest one.

When i put the speed gear box in on my drive way with axle stands on my own in the pi$$ing rain it was a true nightmare. I stank of hypoid oil for days.

Daz

RON

I'd say he's done the clutch fork based on his words.... but it does kinda sound that way doesn't it, you have taken the shaft out chris, and not just the cover on the end of it..??? you also then nee to phyisically lift the clutch fork out of it's location so that the box can come out......a torch through the rubber gaitor should be used to ensure the fork is out of it's location....

Mark A

iTrader: (1)

Lets hope he has or that will be something else to replace!!