Downpipe replacement! Is it an easy job???
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Downpipe replacement! Is it an easy job???
Can find any posts on this, but I bet there is some, but......................
Im getting a TSL Decat soon, and Im thinking of doing this myself. I've heard of seized nuts though Has anyone ever done one on a MY99 Classic, or any classic I suppose. I also believe getting the Turbo heatsheild off maybe a pain!
Can anyone shed some light?? Im half decent with a spanner honest!!!
Im getting a TSL Decat soon, and Im thinking of doing this myself. I've heard of seized nuts though Has anyone ever done one on a MY99 Classic, or any classic I suppose. I also believe getting the Turbo heatsheild off maybe a pain!
Can anyone shed some light?? Im half decent with a spanner honest!!!
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DOH! Well, I'll have a go, if they dont come off, I'll take it to a friendly neighbourhood mechanic, and let HIM loose his knuckles
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Penetrating oil, ideally whilst things are still hot, is the best way. Getting the intercooler off while things are still hot is easy. Getting the heat shield off to expose the turbo studs without burning your hands is the "fun" part Full exhaust change in about 2 1/4 hours work on my own in my garage with ramps last time I did one - always managed it in an evening after work, anyway. Admittedly that's on a bugeye, but the process is extremely similar.
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#8
Good idea to 'wrap' the pipe as well...
Also you'll probably need to modify the heat shield when you put it back on, coz the new downpipe will have a wider neck. I cut mine in half and secured it with just 3 bolts.
FC
Also you'll probably need to modify the heat shield when you put it back on, coz the new downpipe will have a wider neck. I cut mine in half and secured it with just 3 bolts.
FC
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when un doing the two top nuts/ bults, might be wise to use some sort of leaver, i.e a pole over the rachet or spanner, as this will give more lever,and less jerk of witch couses snapped bolts, plus save your nuckles from skin damage?
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Originally Posted by pauld37
Have heard about wrap, what is this for? I know for keeping heat in, but why?
It's also supposed to increase the pops and bangs you get with full decat as the downpipe will be nice an hot inside to ignite any unburnt fuel
#12
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Originally Posted by Graz
It's also supposed to increase the pops and bangs you get with full decat as the downpipe will be nice an hot inside to ignite any unburnt fuel
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Cheers Chrome, Bookmarked the page! Its only £26 anyway
http://www.agriemach.com/product_inf...roducts_id=363
http://www.agriemach.com/product_inf...roducts_id=363
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Actually, now many feet will we need??? Surely only 15ft at £8.75
http://www.agriemach.com/product_inf...roducts_id=694
Grand!
http://www.agriemach.com/product_inf...roducts_id=694
Grand!
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Might be worth getting the heat proof paint and sprying it as well. Apparently the wrap can soak up a lot of water otherwise. Okay if you don't mind a load of steam coming out of your bonnet for the first few miles of a trip
#23
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Originally Posted by Graz
Might be worth getting the heat proof paint and sprying it as well. Apparently the wrap can soak up a lot of water otherwise. Okay if you don't mind a load of steam coming out of your bonnet for the first few miles of a trip
#24
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'Kin 'ell, who said this was easy???? Did this yesterday, went round a mates who has a pit in their garage, not possible on ramps surely? Lost count of the amount of bolts holding the heat shields on, then had to remove the intercooler to get the sheilds out.
The downpipe itself came out easy, but because the pipe I was putting in was an openneck one the shields wouldn't fit it so my mate cut and shut the shields to suit.
Took around 5 hours to do
The downpipe itself came out easy, but because the pipe I was putting in was an openneck one the shields wouldn't fit it so my mate cut and shut the shields to suit.
Took around 5 hours to do
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Originally Posted by pauld37
'Kin 'ell, who said this was easy???? Did this yesterday, went round a mates who has a pit in their garage, not possible on ramps surely?
Heatshield - yeah, it does need a bit of chopping, and the bolt down the bottom nearest the osf wheel is a bit irritating to get at. However, nothing you shouldn't expect wih car mechanics.
Easy is all relative. Try chaning the up-pipe, you'll think the downpipe is easy then!
#27
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Originally Posted by TonyFlow
Will be easier next time - I stick the DP back on when MOT time comes round - on a trolley jack, It takes me about 1.5 hrs (and that aint really pushing it!)
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