air/fuel gauge
#1
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air/fuel gauge
hiya ppl...
would i be able to use an original sensor or would i have to order one....
was gonna ask if any1 had a suggestion as to where i could put this as i already have a 3 pod setup....
would i be able to use an original sensor or would i have to order one....
was gonna ask if any1 had a suggestion as to where i could put this as i already have a 3 pod setup....
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Most people wire them in at the ECU to ensure the gauge is seeing the same voltage as the ECU. So yes you would be using the original sensor.
Some people do use a seperate sensor, usually a wideband one. Not too sure of the advantages of a wideband, I suspect it gives a more accurate reading when on boost. The standard one will start to underead as it gets hot on boost, one of the reasons the signal isn't used by the ECU during open loop fuelling. However widebands are pretty expensive, I suspect they might also output a different voltage so may not be suitable for a normal AFR gauge anyway.
What type of AFR are you buying, some come in plastic boxes, i.e. the LambdaLink one comes in a similar case to the KnockLink. What about a single A-Pillar pod if you are going for a gauge type AFR meter e.g. http://www.powerengineering.co.uk/ac...ior.htm#gauges
Some people do use a seperate sensor, usually a wideband one. Not too sure of the advantages of a wideband, I suspect it gives a more accurate reading when on boost. The standard one will start to underead as it gets hot on boost, one of the reasons the signal isn't used by the ECU during open loop fuelling. However widebands are pretty expensive, I suspect they might also output a different voltage so may not be suitable for a normal AFR gauge anyway.
What type of AFR are you buying, some come in plastic boxes, i.e. the LambdaLink one comes in a similar case to the KnockLink. What about a single A-Pillar pod if you are going for a gauge type AFR meter e.g. http://www.powerengineering.co.uk/ac...ior.htm#gauges
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am considering either a lambdakink one (like the knocklink) or a 52mm autometer gauge to match the rest of my gauges..... i like the look of that little gauge on the power engineering site....
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Originally Posted by BOB'5
I have a Lambdalink on mine wired up to the ECU.
Bob
Bob
do u know if a gauge would be as good (as accurate as a lambdalink??)
wheres the cheapest place to buy a lamdalink???? is it demon tweeks??
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Originally Posted by Tasberley
was considering one of those bob... but also considering an autometer gauge and pod which is a bit cheaper....... would match my dials too...
do u know if a gauge would be as good (as accurate as a lambdalink??)
wheres the cheapest place to buy a lamdalink???? is it demon tweeks??
do u know if a gauge would be as good (as accurate as a lambdalink??)
wheres the cheapest place to buy a lamdalink???? is it demon tweeks??
Bob
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Got my LambdaLink from www.brdevelopments.com in a group buy. Must get round to fitting it Finally put the KnockLink in over easter.
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Originally Posted by BOB'5
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I prefer autometer AFR's. They have more increments and you can see the whole scale of the lambda (0-1v) so you get open and closed loop info.
Some say the closed loop is pointless, but it shows if your MAF or lambda is dying
MB
Some say the closed loop is pointless, but it shows if your MAF or lambda is dying
MB
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Bob Not on here as much as I used to be
Neilo - UCU is under the passenger carpet. Remove the metal cover plate and you can see the ECU. There will be a few big plug connectors into the ECU box (depending on MY) all the wires you need to solder onto are in the bottom plug. If you do a search you will find the right ECU diagram for your MY car. Then just run the wires under the dash. Easy and fun once you've spent a few hours scratching your head Or if you pay me I will do it
MB
Neilo - UCU is under the passenger carpet. Remove the metal cover plate and you can see the ECU. There will be a few big plug connectors into the ECU box (depending on MY) all the wires you need to solder onto are in the bottom plug. If you do a search you will find the right ECU diagram for your MY car. Then just run the wires under the dash. Easy and fun once you've spent a few hours scratching your head Or if you pay me I will do it
MB
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