mitch p1

i just baught a x reg p1 its standard apart from a brembo 6 pot front caliper conversion, just wondering what dump valve to get and what exhaust?

also do you think the brake upgrade should make the insurance dearer cheaper? as i forgot to tell them!

Davey P

iTrader: (1)

Have you tryed asking on the P1 owners forum.

www.p1woc.co.uk

Fat Boy

Forge recirculating dump valve - don't get a vent to atmosphere unless you lurve Max Power noises and you like your engine running ****e.

Decat exhaust from scoobysport, plus run Octane booster at all times, plus knocklink and remap if you're sensible, given the P1's and JDM Sti V's propensity for running lean after decatting. All IMHO

Then the modding starts...

Brakes will never reduce insurance but might well invalidate it. A few insurance companies don'tmind, most do. Mind you the stuff above will have an effect on your insurance as well...

scooby-k

mitch piccy of scoobysport exhaust on a P1



ken

SVVG

iTrader: (1)

Hello mate - I've got a P1 with Blitz NUR Spec R exhasut and a scooby sport decat - sounds awesome and revs very freely (but is FCKING loud). I wouldn't recommend an induction kit until you get a remap, but I was running with a K&N panel filter, which made a really big difference over the standard one - quicker spool up and stronger top end. (now have remap and RCM Induction Kit.)

The advice re Forge recirculating dump valve above is sound - especially if you are going to decat and take things further (if you get an induction kit you can still hear it churpping away). Brake upgrade is vital - but you've already got that, and you should tell insurance co - and it WILL put up the premium (only by about £60 or so - depending on where you go!!!) I used Elephant and they were very resonable as it happens. You should always run on optimax (although a couple of the guys on the P1WOC run on BP Ultimate and reckon they run a bit better) but adding booster should also help reduce knocking.

Hope you enjoy the car - they are the bollx - although if doing it again I'd have gone for an import STI IV or V and spent the extra cash on the mods!

p.s. be cautious if you get work done at a dealership - they usually know fck all about the limited editions and I have had bad experiences with two dealerships (despite coming highly recommended) "taking liberties" with my petrol..... If you're able go with one of the Scooby specialists RCM, TSL etc as they see these cars day in and day out, are on the whole cheaper and generally really nice to deal with and very knowledgable - All IMHO!!!

p.p.s. in case you dont know already - you should let the car warm down after a run as there were quite a lot of probs with sump cracking etc as parts of the engine get hotter than others and so cool at different rates - so if you've just been thrashing it you should let it run for a few mins (I wait 5 to 10 as am paranoid) before switching off - hence loud exhaust means I have to stop well away from the neighbours! - Standard Scooby advice I think - just that I heard it was more of a problem with the STi based and tuned cars running with higher boost and hence higher temps...

Power Junkie

iTrader: (1)

or just drive off boost for a few miles to cool down

mitch p1

ive been chatting to a few guys at www.p1woc.co.uk at they say the same really. i told the insurance company about the brakes and they were fine with it!

i think ill go for the recirculating dump valve and a exhaust that sounds nice but not to loud as my dad will be driving it as a named driver!
thanks for all the help!!

DaveW

As Power Junkie says, drive off boost for a few miles. Its actually better than sitting idling for cooling down the turbo, as the air flow through the engine bay helps take the heat away.

Dave.

SVVG

iTrader: (1)

Agreed - but this technique has a fundamental flaw - it relies on driver discipline!