Richard74

Please excuse me as I'm very new to all this.

I have just bought my first Impreza, a UK Turbo 2000, which I REALLY pleased with. I'm interested in upgrading the exhaust and probably the air filter too.
I would like to know what exhaust gives the best increase in power but doesn't have a 4" or 5" tailpipe? Though the deep burble would be nice.

Also, is there a preferred filter / exhaust combination?

I'm also a bit confused by the removal of the centre pipe. If I get this removed to increase flow, will I have to get anything else changed as a result?

And finally (thank God I hear you sigh), is it worth buying a dump valve and what one?

Again, please excuse the stupid questions and thanks in advance.

TEXAS PETE

I’d recommend a scooysport exhaust…it has a nice 3.5” tail pipe and sounds superb. You’ll find one in the Scooby shop and occasionally in the for sail section. As for the air filter I’d recommend an ITG panel filter which performs well with the exhaust and still uses the original air box. And there you have it a better breathing Scoob…

You’ll probably get a better response in the drivetrain section…


Pete

RLE

iTrader: (2)

Richard,

I have one of the Scoobysport exhausts for sale that Texas Pete refers to.

Brand new and never fitted. If you want any other information please feel free to mail me and I'll try and sort you out with a nice price.

I originally started with the Janspeed S1 before moving to the Firestorm exhaust-this looked great but was way too loud especially as I had a full decat. The Scoobysport was fantastic-very linear power delivery etc-if you do a search you'll see some reviews like this one.

Haxzer

Can vouch for that!, Also have a MY00 Turbo in DBM with a ScoobySport on, sounds awsome but not ear bursting!

Haxzer

virgin

i agree with all the above,,

or magnex if you want to go new, reasonable price , good quality ,not to loud !

they do a front de-cat pip ,middle section de-cat and a rear box

Must point out for a fact ! with all removed it will fail emissions on MOT, if you keep the front CAT pipe and swop at MOT time , It will pass , and dont worry about the heat shielding around the CAT ,if you only run for a few miles and dont park on grass because it will catch light.

if you change the lot and re-map on a MYOO wagon ,you will get around 265 to 275 and more importantly around 260 torq with magnex , HKS may push a little more but the car will be very loud , thats not me

my old car ran 276 bhp with 265 torq with the above but also had PE induction kit and the air box RES removed,

welcome to scoobynet mate

virgin

oh and ...............

dont bother with DV the standard scoob DV is excellent quality , and there will be know performance difference ,

if you want options then this could be one , get an induction kit, ignore the waffle about warm air induction (your not building COMP car) this will amplify your current DV so its audible but you will also get a sexy raspy induction raw whenyou boot it ,

virgin

sorry mate i missed one,

3.5 systems can interchange with any part of the scoob full standard system , so if you replace the middle it will still fit the front down and back box.

before you ask ! EIBACH progressive springs will improve your handling no end and descretly lower the car around 25mm, but the main advantage is there proggresive, and go for a full geometry set-up, springs, 150 geom 60 to hundreds

olliecampbell

iTrader: (3)

Got a MY00 DMB with the scoobysport backbox on, sounds great

Granby

iTrader: (5)

Don't want to upset you m8 but i think you are talking bo**ok, fit a STi panel filter to the standard airbox and it will be getting lovely cold air to the engine, if you have a induction kit it will be drawing in warm air from the engine compartment (unless you are ducting cold air from the front or inner wing) with a increase chance of detting.

virgin

bo**ok about what ? warm ind , DV being amped ? if your gonna rip on me m8,then explain what on please , i may learn something

Granby

iTrader: (5)

Sorry m8 i might of been a bit harsh there, what i was on about is warm induction, a engine needs as cool air as possible and if you fit a induction kit then 9 times out of 10 it will be drawing in warm air from around the engine, the standard airbox is a good design and with a decent air filter is better than a induction kit (but i did say this in my first reply).

TAINTON

Second that the STI filter is rated the best one as its paper based.

From what ive read on here the ITG one is oil based which isnt so kind to the maf......(quote me if im wrong)

Apparently MY99/00 have tempramental maf sensors.
Ill be fitting STI version when I can be bothered

Ashley

sammyh

iTrader: (1)

Off to drivetrain we go

Richard74

Thanks for the useful replies.

olliecampbell

iTrader: (3)

Yeah ive got an ITG and its gone through 2 MAFs, time to replace it.

From what ive heard/read the best MAF friendly filters are these ones:
Green Cotton,
Sti,
K&N,

(thats in no particular order, i think im going for a K&N, for about £30)

PhilA

Just to join in, oiled based induction kits/filters let too much muck and oil through the filter which gets on the MAF sensor and kills it. About £75/80 to replace. Main problem is if you drive with a broken MAF your engine can let go, costing thousands to fix.

RB5201

What are the symptoms of a faulty MAF? I currently have an ITG filter, having read mostly negative views on this product I am currently looking at swopping it, either for K&N or the sti panel filter, any thoughts or views on which one welcome. I guess I would notice if I had MAF failure?

PhilA

I've heard K&N aren't too hot on MAF's either as they are oiled. Standard STI panel filter is the one to go for.
If your MAF is gone/going the car will feel slugish at certain parts of the rev rang and may even feel jurky.

Dark Blue Mark

K&N are probably the best cone filter if you insist on using one. A cone filter can be good, and most of the big power boys use them as the volume of flow through the standard air box becomes a limiting factor. They will also normally be running with a non MAF based ECU, so the issue of damaging MAF's is negated. MAF damage can occur from vibration and or contamination. The K&N is good because it has a good securing bracket, stopping it moving.

However, for most of us 215-300 ish BHP people, a good quality panel replacement is a very good option. STi, Green Cotton, K&N are well known to be good, and only lightly oiled. ITG are well known to gunk the MAF.

RB, symptoms of a faulty MAF may not be apparent until you do an ECU reset. The symptoms are erratic idle and the car feels faster and faster on boost, due to the failed sensor leaning the mixture out. This causes DET and your engine can quickly go pop Mr ECU is quite clever and learns to counteract the erratic idle, meaning you dont know the MAF is gone. For this reason it can be a nasty problem and it goes un-noticed. I reccomend doing an ECU reset every few months to keep a check for this. Use the search to find out how to do it. Very easy.

Phil, the K&N is ok. It may not feel sluggish if the MAF has gone, this is more likely the o2 sensor on the off boost part of driving. As I said, a failed MAF can make the car feel quicker on boost.

Just to add, the MY99-00 are very bad on MAF's, other years seem to be much more robust.

MB

Subarussian

ITG fcuked my MAF! The first symptom was a very rough idle (amost stalling then revving to 1k rpms). Then the car started stalling at roundabouts after heaving braking. That was interesting So the problem was very hard to miss...

Turbo_Steve

If you're worried about your MAF or your engine, fit some kind of diagnostic!
Either a knocklink (preferred) or lambda AFR to make sure your engine isn't going too lean. Costs a bit more than a new MAF, but cheaper than a rebuild, eh?

virgin

yep, i agree, however , i am just saying that a DV is not a good idea as the standard DV is good quality,it may not look the part but its well made,if he wants the noise of a DV then an induction kit will amp the current DV.
Induction kits do work if you remove the air resinator box from wheel arch as a induction kit can suck cold air from the outlet hole , this way it would be as good as a panel filter upgrade (sti filter,Green etc) but with the benifit of the suction noise and amped standard DV noise. plus its cheaper.

What do you think ?

Granby

iTrader: (5)

It looks like were thinking along the same lines now (didn't mean any offence by the way)

virgin

no offence taken granby, what do you drive mate ?