advice on removing g.box out of Type R ver5...
03 August 2004, 12:09 AM
#1
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advice on removing g.box out of Type R ver5...
As above all.... looks like a re-build is on the cards which definatly will have to be done by the proffesionals and may prove costly...so to keep the cost down gonna try and take the box out myself and provide it to them.
Have acsess to required tools as my dad's an ex-Renault mechanic for 30 yrs but will have to struggle with a decent trolly jack and axle stands which may may not be as convinient as a ramp but should do the job.
Would appriciate any advice on special procedures with the scoobs or better still, a set of basic instructions from someone who may have done it before.
come on guy's I need your help!!!
cheers.
Have acsess to required tools as my dad's an ex-Renault mechanic for 30 yrs but will have to struggle with a decent trolly jack and axle stands which may may not be as convinient as a ramp but should do the job.
Would appriciate any advice on special procedures with the scoobs or better still, a set of basic instructions from someone who may have done it before.
come on guy's I need your help!!!
cheers.
03 August 2004, 02:02 AM
#2
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ok
remove intercooler-dont damage it much
exhaust - turbo
castle nuts on bottom wishbones and pop the taper ready for
pop rollpins on front halfshafts and they pull out of spline
rear props standard removal stuff as is gear shift assy
remove the starter motor behind it remove the 10mm allen key bung
screw a longish m6 bolt into the clutch fork pivot and extract
waggle clutch fork from thrust bearing
remove the 4 nuts/bolts that hold the engine to box
your box may have welded itself to the dowels use thin paint scrapers to brake this by tapping them between the engine to box gentle leverage
check round it for earth wires speedo cable etc and itll just fall out))
clutch pivot removal is most important every thing else is std removing bits
have fun
ps there quite heavy but you can manage just on your own with trolly jack help
remove intercooler-dont damage it much
exhaust - turbo
castle nuts on bottom wishbones and pop the taper ready for
pop rollpins on front halfshafts and they pull out of spline
rear props standard removal stuff as is gear shift assy
remove the starter motor behind it remove the 10mm allen key bung
screw a longish m6 bolt into the clutch fork pivot and extract
waggle clutch fork from thrust bearing
remove the 4 nuts/bolts that hold the engine to box
your box may have welded itself to the dowels use thin paint scrapers to brake this by tapping them between the engine to box gentle leverage
check round it for earth wires speedo cable etc and itll just fall out
))clutch pivot removal is most important every thing else is std removing bits
have fun
ps there quite heavy but you can manage just on your own with trolly jack help
03 August 2004, 01:01 PM
#3
In my humble experience this is a evil time consuming task if on your own in a simple garage.
Once you have battled and won you will question if it was worth the saving of £300 to pay someone.
I've done it 3 times now. i bought a Draper gearbox jack and this was a god-send.
Very good luck to you.
911
Once you have battled and won you will question if it was worth the saving of £300 to pay someone.
I've done it 3 times now. i bought a Draper gearbox jack and this was a god-send.
Very good luck to you.
911
04 August 2004, 06:41 AM
#5
I will only do a box again if I'm putting in a 6 speed JDM Sti!
If my engine plans come off ok this Xmas that may be sooner than i think.....
However the thought of the box being even heavier and a tighter fit gives me nightmares!
Mind you, I could run Avon hill climb slicks then and gain 2 seconds on the hills for £600, what a deal! You know what that feels like!
I know some claim to be able to do this job in 4 hours with a helper, must be like watching a Ferrari pit stop.
911
If my engine plans come off ok this Xmas that may be sooner than i think.....
However the thought of the box being even heavier and a tighter fit gives me nightmares!
Mind you, I could run Avon hill climb slicks then and gain 2 seconds on the hills for £600, what a deal! You know what that feels like!
I know some claim to be able to do this job in 4 hours with a helper, must be like watching a Ferrari pit stop.
911
08 August 2004, 12:36 AM
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thanks guy's. Darbo...your instuructions should come in handy as I get started this morning!
I know it prove difficult...but I've got to try it to help with the cost and am actually looking forward to "getting to know" the drivetrain up close which Im sure can only benifit.
What the hell.....If it all goes wrong....I can always give it to the proffesionals!!
anyone else with any last minute tips???
I know it prove difficult...but I've got to try it to help with the cost and am actually looking forward to "getting to know" the drivetrain up close which Im sure can only benifit.
What the hell.....If it all goes wrong....I can always give it to the proffesionals!!
anyone else with any last minute tips???
08 August 2004, 07:17 AM
#7
Ok, I understand you want to DIY and learn, that's why i did mine...
There are some tricky bits for the newcomer.
Follow the out line by Darbo but think about:
1 You can get a Manual from Halfords! It is a bit cr*p, covers Legacy to Justy to Impreza but will help you.
2 If it is the first time the box has been out, the box WILL feel welded to the 2 location dowls. Took me 2 hours to gently free it all off.
3 The gear shift to box is secured via a double scroll pin, and as for the front drive shafts these are rock hard, and need a good set of punches to remove/replace (Halfords again)
4 Refitting takes longer. Make sure the sheet steel slash guard on the bottom of the engine is not bent up too close to the flywheel, or the box will NOT go on
5 Change the clutch if £££ allows while you are there.
6 Take your time, the box really is VERY heavy and could cause a lot of damage...
7 Do it with the car jacked up level and standard axle stands are only j u s t tall enough to get the old box out from under the car...
Take your time and the job is ok, I'm just impatient, and I can get the box/engine out of my 911 and back in in just 4 hours.....no so with the Imreza!
Good luck,
911
There are some tricky bits for the newcomer.
Follow the out line by Darbo but think about:
1 You can get a Manual from Halfords! It is a bit cr*p, covers Legacy to Justy to Impreza but will help you.
2 If it is the first time the box has been out, the box WILL feel welded to the 2 location dowls. Took me 2 hours to gently free it all off.
3 The gear shift to box is secured via a double scroll pin, and as for the front drive shafts these are rock hard, and need a good set of punches to remove/replace (Halfords again)
4 Refitting takes longer. Make sure the sheet steel slash guard on the bottom of the engine is not bent up too close to the flywheel, or the box will NOT go on
5 Change the clutch if £££ allows while you are there.
6 Take your time, the box really is VERY heavy and could cause a lot of damage...
7 Do it with the car jacked up level and standard axle stands are only j u s t tall enough to get the old box out from under the car...
Take your time and the job is ok, I'm just impatient, and I can get the box/engine out of my 911 and back in in just 4 hours.....no so with the Imreza!
Good luck,
911
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08 August 2004, 09:23 PM
#8
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Good news guy's...managed to get the box off!!!
Thanks Darbo/911 for the tips....they really helped. Was down to so hard graft and determination along with the help from my dad that the box came off...."welded" is too light a word to describe the attachment between the box/engine....patience was tested here but came through in the end.
Actually removing the various parts leading upto the box itself was a great experience... as the cars not that old...all the various nuts/bolts came free quite easily with the help of some WD40.
revieled an almost knackerd AP clutch and a flywheel with some nasty hairline cracks due to the exsessive heat build up so will have to replace...any thoughts on a lighted flywheel??
Once agaain...thanks all.
Thanks Darbo/911 for the tips....they really helped. Was down to so hard graft and determination along with the help from my dad that the box came off...."welded" is too light a word to describe the attachment between the box/engine....patience was tested here but came through in the end.
Actually removing the various parts leading upto the box itself was a great experience... as the cars not that old...all the various nuts/bolts came free quite easily with the help of some WD40.
revieled an almost knackerd AP clutch and a flywheel with some nasty hairline cracks due to the exsessive heat build up so will have to replace...any thoughts on a lighted flywheel??
Once agaain...thanks all.
09 August 2004, 07:29 AM
#9
Well done!
I can't stand working on my cars with another person which is why it all takes so lond I think....
I would fit another AP Organic, and a flywheel of about 7 to 8 Kg in weight. People are happy with less, but the guys who drag race them seem to go for the 8 kg.
You've just got to put it back in now!
I'll be thinking about you!!.............what a job.
911
I can't stand working on my cars with another person which is why it all takes so lond I think....
I would fit another AP Organic, and a flywheel of about 7 to 8 Kg in weight. People are happy with less, but the guys who drag race them seem to go for the 8 kg.
You've just got to put it back in now!
I'll be thinking about you!!.............what a job.
911
15 August 2004, 11:42 PM
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Just a quick update...decided to try and strip down the box and see the evidence of the damage. Have been trying to get hold of a workshop manual of some sort to help with this but had no luck so decided to approach it logically and see how far I would get.
Have to admit...my dad's mechanical knowledge played a major part in this although he has never worked with scoobs. Since we managed to get the box out a week ago...I thought we'd give it a shot today.
Started off at the rear end by undoing the bolts attaching the centre diff to the box casing, gently worked it away from the dowels and unbolted the small bolt on the shaft inside the diff casing. Then removed the pin holding the end bushing for the selector rod on the shaft and SLOWLY prised the casing apart.
Then proceeded to open all the long bolts holding the main casing together of which there are quite a few...and then prised the main casing apart.
The damage was clear to see...2nd gear on both the input and output shafts had lost one tooth on each which we managed to fish out of the box. after close inspection... it seems like the other gears and mechanisms have escaped any damage, although I know for a fact that some of the synchro rings will need replacing.
Have to admit...my dad's mechanical knowledge played a major part in this although he has never worked with scoobs. Since we managed to get the box out a week ago...I thought we'd give it a shot today.
Started off at the rear end by undoing the bolts attaching the centre diff to the box casing, gently worked it away from the dowels and unbolted the small bolt on the shaft inside the diff casing. Then removed the pin holding the end bushing for the selector rod on the shaft and SLOWLY prised the casing apart.
Then proceeded to open all the long bolts holding the main casing together of which there are quite a few...and then prised the main casing apart.
The damage was clear to see...2nd gear on both the input and output shafts had lost one tooth on each which we managed to fish out of the box. after close inspection... it seems like the other gears and mechanisms have escaped any damage, although I know for a fact that some of the synchro rings will need replacing.
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