What happens when a rod snaps!
16 March 2004, 09:04 AM
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What happens when a rod snaps!
Couple of pictures to show you what happens when a rod snaps
Will post pics up once the heads are off
Steven
Will post pics up once the heads are off
Steven
Last edited by P20SPD; 16 March 2004 at 09:06 AM.
16 March 2004, 09:24 AM
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Sorry to hear the bad news mate,but hey now you can upgrade your internals i know you where thinking about it some time ago.
Get some more pictures up of the engine when its stripped,but a new short motor is on order somewhere.
Hope its sorted quickly.
Zippy
Get some more pictures up of the engine when its stripped,but a new short motor is on order somewhere.
Hope its sorted quickly.
Zippy
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16 March 2004, 09:52 AM
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Neil, suprisingly my chin is up 
Puff, the block is fecked, ie scrap, looking through the hole i can see that the liners bores have been well and truly fubarred.
Puff, the block is fecked, ie scrap, looking through the hole i can see that the liners bores have been well and truly fubarred.
16 March 2004, 01:10 PM
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Steven,
Do you think it could be used as a plant pot like your old alloy?
You could have four plants in that easy!
Simon
Do you think it could be used as a plant pot like your old alloy?
You could have four plants in that easy!
Simon
Last edited by Jolly Green Monster; 16 March 2004 at 01:11 PM.
16 March 2004, 10:48 PM
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Head for 4 and 2, cleaner than it looks.
Piston 2, moves when cranked and no apparant damage.
Piston 4, seized solid and what looks like a gap where the oil is.
Head for 1 and 3, there are some pit marks on the valves for no 1 (left) and a lot on the valves for no 3, so much so you can see them in the photo.
Close up of No 3 valves
Pistons 3 and 1, both move freely when cranked, no apparant damage on 1, but on 3 there is a bit.
Close up of no 3
Close up of no 1
Close up of no 2
So my theory is no 4 has seized for whatever reason, rod has snapped, piercing block, and going through to no 3, enough for it to knock some off the piston.
Will try do more tomorrow, car is also cleaned off now.
Steven
Piston 2, moves when cranked and no apparant damage.
Piston 4, seized solid and what looks like a gap where the oil is.
Head for 1 and 3, there are some pit marks on the valves for no 1 (left) and a lot on the valves for no 3, so much so you can see them in the photo.
Close up of No 3 valves
Pistons 3 and 1, both move freely when cranked, no apparant damage on 1, but on 3 there is a bit.
Close up of no 3
Close up of no 1
Close up of no 2
So my theory is no 4 has seized for whatever reason, rod has snapped, piercing block, and going through to no 3, enough for it to knock some off the piston.
Will try do more tomorrow, car is also cleaned off now.
Steven
Last edited by P20SPD; 17 March 2004 at 08:18 AM. Reason: correct links
16 March 2004, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by P20SPD
What a great idea Simon
(Steven any photo's of your alloy plant pot)
17 March 2004, 12:09 PM
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17 March 2004, 02:57 PM
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do you have contact details for DWallis & co
thanks
thanks
Originally Posted by Puff The Magic Wagon!
Sorry to hear this Steve 
There's a lot of oil sloshing about in there!
What happened? Was it under full load or partial?
I see that it must be at that well known repairers - DWallis & Co - so should be back on the road in a short time - hope so.
There's a lot of oil sloshing about in there!
What happened? Was it under full load or partial?
I see that it must be at that well known repairers - DWallis & Co - so should be back on the road in a short time - hope so.
17 March 2004, 08:48 PM
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GLAG, DWallis & Co is basically David Wallis, who is well known on here for all sorts of DIY abilities, look in Projects Section. The Co, most people asign to me. . Its all done in our own garages.
Steven
. Its all done in our own garages.Steven
17 March 2004, 08:54 PM
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Reasons to get a 2.5:
You need a new block and internals anyway
You want one
They're cheaper than a second hand motor
Reasons not to get a 2.5:
um, nope, can't think of any
Sorry to hear of the problem, but think of it more as an opportunity
You need a new block and internals anyway
You want one
They're cheaper than a second hand motor
Reasons not to get a 2.5:
um, nope, can't think of any
Sorry to hear of the problem, but think of it more as an opportunity
18 March 2004, 10:28 AM
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The engine bay colour is this new engine problem detection process.. pink is the code for snapped rod..
It helped me out to on mine as mine was a sort of bubbly green which meant large coolant leak.. which was great as despite all the steam filling the motorway I hadn't realised that was what the problem was.. lol
Other codes I can remember are black spots, for an oil leak..
Brown - owner needs to clean engine bay more often..
Simon
It helped me out to on mine as mine was a sort of bubbly green which meant large coolant leak.. which was great as despite all the steam filling the motorway I hadn't realised that was what the problem was.. lol
Other codes I can remember are black spots, for an oil leak..
Brown - owner needs to clean engine bay more often..
Simon
