Has any body out there had the experience of using a bleed valve to up their boost on any U.K or Import cars.
I've heard as long as there not adjusted to much you can get more reliable and higher boost.

Cheers
Darren

 

 

R.I.P pop fart BANG!

 

I've used a bleed valve for over 6 months now on a 96 UK. It's great.

Cost me £35 second hand.

I'm running 1.1 bar peak 1.0 held without any difficulty. I have had it up to 1.3 peak 1.2 held, but the boost is very intermittent depending on atmospherics (can vary up to 0.2 of a bar) and there is a tendency to get overboost sometimes as a result.

A bleed valve IMO is a good tool provided you resist the temptation to crank it up too high.

It is probably best used in conjunction with a lambda link or air fuel ratio meter to check that the increased boost isn't making you run lean and also a fuel cut defender (HKS for example) which raises the overboost fuel cut point on the standard ECU and allows you to run more boost without getting fuel cut.

This is the route I've gone along with Induction kit and full decat. The car is transformed from when I bought it as standard when it was only pushing 0.85 bar peak.

Rich

 

Rich

Dont bother with the Lamda Link - it is total pants!

Tells you very little in terms of the fuel/air richness - mine can go over to very rich on idle at the Traffic lights - totally useless - as it is too broad based - need something far more specific....

What power d'you reckon u get now then?

Dont waste too much money on the airfilter - Blitz and HKS are a rip off - you could try the k&n or Pipercross...

 

Steve,

What do you recommend instead of Lambda link?

I reckon I'm up around 260+bhp now (not bad for a 208 standard MY96)

Got 250 @ Well Lane in July running only 0.9bar peak.

Re the airfilter, You've run Blitz and HKS, Which do you reckon was the best? I opted for the Blitz SUS mainly for the sound/looks
and I actually managed to get it pretty cheap anyway.

You manage to get your wastegate sorted?

Rich

 

Steve,

My Lamdalink also shows that I'm running rich at idle. What have you compared readings with to show that it is wrong?. What would something 'far more specific' be?. As it is often used for mapping, it won't be THAT inaccurate, or the results wouldn't be so good, would thay?

Cheers,

A.

 

Rich

Blitz sounds much better than HKS - with the new aps I think all I can here is a bit of sound off the internally venting dumpvalve

I'm not gonna make any comments on this one - I'll have a chat with Bob at some point

 

So, its just RICH running a bleed valve then
There must be a few more out there

Pete (also tempted to bleed)

 

Pete,

I have used a bleed valve in the past but you will get better results from one of these "manual boost controllers" (MBCs).

The cheapest (and the one I used) is this:

 

Gavin i have a TDo5 on my Sti and i think i might go for one of these items!!!!!!!
Thanks for the info.
What sort of reliable boost could i use on my STi 2 with full decatted system.18 psi????

Cheers
Darren

 

Was the $50.00 doller "DAWES"kit not necessary?? ie, hoses long enough

 

Steve,

This comment...

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rich
Dont bother with the Lamda Link - it is total pants!

Tells you very little in terms of the fuel/air richness - mine can go over to very rich on idle at the Traffic lights - totally useless - as it is too broad based - need something far more specific.

**********************
Is stupid, and misleading........

Whilst the Lambda Link is somewhat lacking in its ability to accurately read the AFR of idle/cruise, it's VERY capable of reading the AFR when on boost, and this is what will stop people running lean, and losing an engine.

Mark.

 

Darren / Luke,

I went for the basic kit and used one of the existing hoses to connect to the other end of the valve.

I used the silver hose supplied to connect to the wastegate and the existing hose to connect to the "nipple" on the turbo.

I then connected the two hoses I was left with together with the OE hose joiner.

I would not advise increasing the boost without being able to check the fuelling - a visit to Power Engineering or another tuner with an accurate air/fuel ratio meter is a necessity.

Even running standard boost, the car will be quicker point-to-point as boost builds MUCH faster.

One of my mates fitted one to his car set at 14psi and was able to spin the wheels - so be wary (especially in the wet) when you first fit it.....

Thanks

Gavin