Aztec Performance Ltd

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Went to Santa Pod this weekend and was v v slippery though...couldn't stop my wheels from spinning...felt like my rear wheels were trying to overtake the fronts...struggled to keep it in a straight line.

Anyway I mangaged 13.43secs.

My runs:

''''''''''''''Run 1''''Run 2''''Run 3''''Run 4''''Run 5

Reaction:'''''1.078''''0.733''''0.997''''0.757'''' 0.744
60ft:'''''''''2.208''''2.057''''1.957''''2.233'''' 2.139
330ft:''''''''5.890''''5.736''''5.577''''5.935'''' 5.835
1/8mile:''''''8.931''''8.765''''8.586''''8.958''''8. 871
1/8mile mph:''81.30''''81.61''''82.06''''81.76''''81.38
1/4Mile:''''''13.818'''13.629'''13.433'''13.800'''13 .737
1/4mile mph:''100.24'''100.78'''99.73''''101.18'''100.37


The car:

MY99 UK
Mongoose Full-decat (turbo-back)
HKS SSQV
Silicon Hoses (turbo/intercooler)
TEK 3 (running 17.4/17.5psi)


Have got a taste for it now and was wondering what mods I could do achieve a better 1/4mile time on my daily car.

Gearbox (type R/sti)?
NOS...effective on Scoobs?

Thanks in advance.

Bob

Denmark

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Bigger turbo

Skassa

el crichon wrx

if your wheels were spinning, less pressure in the tyres, perhaps...

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

Yes. Did toy with the idea but would mean also injectors, fuel pump, pistons, rods, map etc to make safe.

Need stronger internals to run anything over 300bhp.

Next time I will run on my old 16" f1s with some sticky spray instead of new F1s with 34psi.

What psi is optimum for drag?

nom

?
You most certainly don't need to go internal for 300bhp+. The drivetrain is far more likely to go at higher levels than the engine, if the engine's done 'properly' rather than simply piling on boost.
Many people (me included) run ~400bhp day-in, day-out on standard internals reliably, although very few of us (actually, as far as I know it's only me ) who are running on standard clutches/gearboxes without problems.
There are a minimal number of cars with 500+ which are still running open-block, although there has been minimal internal jiggery-pokery on these.
So more power from the engine shouldn't be a problem, although obviously rather more expensive than spraying glue on your wheels

Aztec Performance Ltd

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Nom:

Is yours UK with standard pistons rods etc?

I was advised against going over 300bhp on uk engine as internals would be a weak link (along with g/box etc)

M0NEY

Thats crap mate!

Alan G is running standard internals on his 2.0 classic. 420bhp with 350lbs of torque

I believe he had to uprate his clutch and the first thing that couldnt take it was the uk gearbox (think he broke a couple). But he has a sti v type r gearbox in it and its fine now

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

I phoned around some of the companies (from memory BRD was one of them) when my TD04 gave up on me.

I badly wanted to upgrade the turbo to a VF34 or 35 and was told that pump, injectors (one place said yes I needed them, the other said no) and a re-map (which I was happy to do)

Was told they could have the car running 300-350bhp BUT it would significantly reduce the life of the engine and didn't really recommend it as I plan to keep car long term. Was told the weakest links would be weak UK pistons and g/box.

Will dig out the info bout which companies advised this.

So on my UK classic I can run 400BHP???...what mods/implications?

Is the STi Type R box good for that power?


Regards,

Bob

M0NEY

Yes mate, it can be done. Companies dont know what they are talking about! lol. First 300bhp couldnt be had, then 350bhp and now people are hitting 400 with no problems.

Im sure Alan g will be around to say but basic mods of his are:

Uk internals (pistons, rods, heads, cams, crank etc)
STI v Type R gearbox
740 injectors
Upgraded fuel pump
Fuel reg
FMIC
TD05/06 turbo
Upgraded clutch
Gruppe S headers
Link ecu

I think they are the main ingredients.

All depends how much you want to spend really

Quite alot of people are going for 2.5 short block now which can handle stupid power. Looking around £1400 at the moment but they are trying to get cheaper

nom

Mine's pretty similar to Alan's - MY00 with 550 injectors with uprated fuel pump & regulator running at 3.8bar, cold-air induction, replacement inlet pipe, TMI 141-S turbo (think that's the name - Garret cold side, TD06 hot anyway ), 3" exhaust, FMIC, Link, Apexi AVC-R. Standard clutch & gearbox ().

Long-term reliability might be out the window, but it depends on your idea of long term - my guess would be that it'll last rather longer than an sti 5 running on NUL with a faulty MAF!

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

mmm...sounds tempting although I'm happy with mine as it is on the road. To me long term is many yrs.

If the internals are good for that much power and I only need the additional power here and there (drags) then maybe NOS is the way to go?

Whats Anti-lag and is it possible to stay on tek path to enable its use?


Bob

M0NEY

Long term is pretty good. Alan G has had his std internals for about 18 months and no probs apart from Gearbox.

Nitrous is good, but can be very expensive. Saves doign everything else but in the long run, will cost you more. Was a scoob owner on here that has Nitrous but ended up filling up every week and cost him a fortune so had to sell it.

Ant6i lag - first you need a ecu that can do anti lag. Not sure if there are any other ways but basically motec/gems has this facility.

Wouldnt recommend it unless you have a BIG BIG turbo. I was told by Andy F with my TD05/06 there was no guarantee it could take anti lag. lol

I wouldnt even think about anti lag yet! lol

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

doh!...anti-lag looked good....never mind.

re: NOS cost....I wont hardly use it other than drag events, which is why I am swaying that way.

Will just be able to turn it on as and when required rather than have 350-400bhp constantly on my daily driver.

Nos seems most efficent as its around £500-700 as opposed to 2/3k for turbo mods.

Doesn't seem to be hardly any scoobs running NOS though in the uk and the search facilty don't work

Bob

AlanG

I use an Apexi AVC-R for boost control just now which can give three boost maps.

Why not run the car daily with the controller switched off (wastegate control only) and use one of the other two *boost maps* for drag meets and fun days.

Alan

garethbrunt

Alan what car do you have the avc-r on? How did you get around the fuel cut?

Cheers, Gareth

AlanG

I run a Link ecu Gareth, not a std ecu, so fuel cut can be altered.

It's the engine itself which is totally bog standard as it left the factory.

Alan

Aztec Performance Ltd

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Alan:

True, I could use a boost controller...

but its still £500 vs £2/3k

Also a NOS system is more easily reversible if ever I need to get shot of the car. Wouldn't be so bad if I could fit turbos FMIC etc myself, but I'm fairly useless at that sort of thing so lots of £££ would be consumed in labour costs

Just need somebody to confirm that NOS is effective with scoobs

nom

I think it's effective - briefly - which is why it's not used very often...

Tricky thing to set up right. Vast stress on the engine - although, of course, not very often

AlanG

edited cause i didn't re-read the thread.....

What about changing to a different turbo and re-mapping to suit? Wouldn't cost anywhere near £2/3000 to do this.
Then you can still run the car with two stage boost if you want by using an additional solenoid (on/off) in the boost solenoids feed line.

i.e. wastegate control only for every day use and ecu controlled boost for track/drag days. You can use the "bright switch" to swap between them.

Alan

[Edited by AlanG - 2/1/2004 2:21:27 PM]

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

Alan:

It still works out considerably more expensive...

second hand turbo est £500
EBC est £200/300
Re-map £300/400
Pump £100 (if req)
etc...and labour £££s

Also if I went for the above I would want to map it properly instead of just increasing the boost.

Main advantages of NOS to me seem like...

1. Ease of fitment
2. Easily removed
3. ON/OFF capability
4. Doesn't effect fuel consumption
5. Won't decrease engine wear.
6. Cheap (bhp per £)

ChristianR

iTrader: (1)

i have a nos kit for sale if anyone is interested, drop me an email.

AlanG

Why do you need an EBC?
Stick to the tek3 and get it re-mapped to suit the replacement turbo. Don't think the mappers of tek ecu's charge the same price for subsequent map changes, so should be cheaper to re-map?

So...e.g. £100 for pump
£500 for turbo
£200 for re-map (ish)
£100 for labour
So approximately £900 and you don't need to refill expensive bottles of NOS.

But i think you really really want the NOS anyway!!

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

Alan:

Am confused. Without an EBC how do I switch between 2 boost settings? Also is this advisable to have one map and 2 different boost settings? Wont I need something like an AFR or similar too?

If I could achieve a reliable on/off 320/350bhp under a grand without having a adverse effect on the engine I would probably do it.

Wont the injectors need to be upgraded too?

Just trying to weigh up the pros and cons.

Will go for the best solution in the end but NOS does seem more appealing at the moment.

The cost of re-fills of NOS is not relevant as I will hardly use it...the car already has more than enough power for me (on the road)...purely want extra for drags.

Bob

AlanG

Your ecu regulates the boost target (17.5psi) on your map with a 2 port solenoid on your year of car. Some years have a 3 port solenoid.

If you disconnect the solenoid, the car will boost to the pressure governed by the wastegate actuator which for a std turbo (TD04) is 0.5 bar.

Your cars' fuelling is mapped to take into account different vacuum/boost pressures, so if you run the car only on actuator pressure, fuelling should be fine for the 0.5 bar.

To have a cheap and easy two boost settings on your car you need to do one of two options..

1: Interrupt the power going to the 2 port boost solenoid via a switch.
What i'm not sure of though if you interrupt the power to the 2 port solenoid, is if it will throw up a check engine light

or 2:
Fit an additional (different type of) solenoid in the hose which goes to the 2 port solenoid and run that through a switch which will then allow, when you operate the switch, you to open flow to the 2 port solenoid or not.
A suitable solenoid and is quite small can be used from early Fiesta's for a quid or so from breakers.


Using the "bright switch" as a switch is convenient cause it rarely gets used and you don't really need it for the clock.

RB5_245

Ideally you would need to re-map the car to run NOS properly anyway, then without nos the map would be a bit off for normal road use

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

Doh!...we seem to have lost some posts!

Andy, any chance of re-posting?

Cheers,

Bob

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

Doh!...we seem to have lost some posts.

Alan, any chance of re-posting?


Bob