bazil2582

What dump valve should i fit to the classic WRX i have "almost" purchased??

I want one that really dumps loud!!!!!!

HKS? BLITZ? BAILEY? FORGE?? There are so many to choose from. The Blitz Super Sound was the favourite till i seen the Forge and Bailey versions for about HALF THE PRICE!!

Please advise!!

RICE ROCKET (NL)

Right now I am driving with a Forge one on my 98. Th esound is awesome. A very big Whoosh!!! But the problem is that it can leak some air at a certain point. So I am planning to go for a HKS SSQV. These ones don't leak at all. But fot the forge dumpvalve you also have several springs. REd, yellow, Blue. They all stand for different boost pressures. So try to ride with someone who has a forge and a HKS. Then you can see for yourself what you like best.

Good luck with it!!

bazil2582

cheers mate

go to General Section, there is a Group Buy for the HKS one. think im gona get myself one of these!!!

RICE ROCKET (NL)

I'm already in a groupbuy in Holland, but thanks anyway! For just 265,- Euro's so that's keeping money in the pocket for other things.!!

Good luck with it!

greasemonkey

Don't want to p*ss on your fire unduly Basil, but as you're probably read round here, VTA dumpvalves aren't quite as good for the general health of your engine as recirculating ones.

If you've just bought a car that comes with a warranty on it, you might want to either wait a bit or check with selling garage or the warranty company before you start changing things like this.

If your engine happens to blow up the week after your shiny new DV is fitted, you don't want the garage turning round and trying to claim that the dumpvalve was responsible.

There are some items on your shopping list (the KnockLink in particular) that are better added sooner rather than later. There are others (Dawes, FCD etc.) that you can only think about adding once you've got some time in the car and other devices (the KnockLink, AFR meter and a good quality boostgauge) fitted.

Mind you, if you're considering the Dawes/FCD route, you'd be much better served by a ScoobyECU, speaking of which, don't forget to buy some good octane booster until/unless you get it remapped for UK pump fuel.


[Edited by greasemonkey - 1/11/2004 12:53:59 PM]

bazil2582

greasemonkey -

thanks for those wise words mate. i do have a warranty so i will leave the engine mods for a wee while. i never thought about that, cheers.

okay, say it was you that just bought this car, what would u get and why? i aint too clued up on the technical gadgets like the knocklink, fuel defender, etc etc.

i have a full exhaust system & induction kit, thats all!!

i know what im doing externally but i want the sensible stuff in place first

cheers



[Edited by bazil2582 - 1/11/2004 1:13:23 PM]

bazil2582

[Edited by bazil2582 - 1/11/2004 1:12:48 PM]

greasemonkey

Difficult to say for certain the order I'd do things if it were mine, as the first thing I'd do is go through it with a fine tooth comb myself and assess if there was anything wrong/not performing as it should, and formulate a list of priorities based on what I find.

However, if I were in your shoes it'd probably be something like:

1) Take it to an experienced independent Subaru specialist for a thorough service/checkover. Replace all the fluids with known good stuff, and also replace the timing belt if there's any doubt about it being done previously according to the proper service schedule

2) Fit a KnockLink and a good quality needle display boost gauge.

3) Replace any components that were identified as worn during the checkover mentioned in (1), e.g. dampers, bushes etc. Rectify any rust or other festering problems.

4) Fit solid rear anti-roll bar droplinks, get bumpsteer fixed and have geometry checked and set up correctly.

5) Fit a ScoobyECU.

...Although before doing any of that I'd follow Neil's advice and take the IAM or (even better) the RoADA course, if I hadn't already done so. Don't forget the octane booster as well.