Craig H

J,
Moving off subject (as usual for me!) - you weren't at Donnigton a few weeks back were you? Mods you've done sound similar to the ones on a Blue Sti there.

david

Not being too bothered about getting significantly more power or tourque from my STi V with an ECU upgrade, I have/will gain an acceptable level of these from the exhaust mods I have made (just need to add the downpipe and Blitz induction kit for full system), but being more concerned about increasing the safety margin on det related issues, is it worth adding an Aquamist Water Injection kit? (or any other brand)

From what little I know, these sytems are reported to STOP detonation (if any exists) and help prevent det. by reducing internal temperatures.

When I had my car checked out at PE, the knock correction sensor detected just under 2 degrees of knock at max tourque (3900 revs) which quickly reduced to hardly anything, I would like to think that water injection could cure this.

Do you guys(firefox) think this is a sensible assumption/approach to making my car 'safer' for raod and track use?

Thanks for your advice.

Dave

Benny Boy

Whether it actually stops detonation may be too sweeping.

However, don't delay, buy today as they say. Do not let anyone talk you out of it.

No power gains of course but an increased safety margin.

Kind regrards

Ben

firefox

Benny..

You are getting quicker and quicker at posting..

Alot of people see water injection as a bandaid, and say that detonation should be removed/move by using other means... such as fuelling.... or lowering your intake (intercooler/charge cooler) etc.

But water injection does work.. and is a good cheap solution. PE is a distributor.. and I think they fitted it to their yellow STI

The injection system can serve three different purposes depending on where you place the injector nozzle.

Have you still got the standard top mount I/C ?

If so.. you have only one place to put it (that will serve any use to you). And that is in the cast pipe below the intercooler.... Place the injector in the Y-piece.. just where it splits.

This will ensure that the mist is introduced into both sides of the I/C

Which system are you going for ? the basic on/off or the mappable one ?

The mappable one is always better... but requires setting up on the Rollers.... To be honest.. I spoke to 3 different suppliers.. (and ERL) and they suggested just the basic on/off one... I know its crude.. but it operates on boost.... you can also set it to work on temp too...

Then you have to decide on the nozzle size.. this is a very grey area... and will vary from car to car... the trick is to inject enough water to remove/move the det.. and not inject excess quantities... I am currently running a 0.5 (but I have a front I/C and water spray)... so det isnt an issue for me - unless I get real hot)

I would think a 0.6 would be ok.. but like I said it depends on individual circumstances

Erm.. what else...

You will need a water tank.. they arent supplied with the kits..... the cast y-piece is crap cheap metal.. and doesnt like having the M-fine thread put in it... have it drilled out.. and tig filed with high quality metal..then have it tapped...

Where are you based ? I can have it done for you ?

I also run a 1bar check valve to stop and water seeping.

The mappable system is prepresurised... but is good.. no delay in building the pressure.... the trick I have adopted is to bring the water injection on a psi or so early.... so it builds the pressure in time..

I have also fitted a master on and off switch (centre console). If the system runs dry (empty tank) you have air going into your engine (lean) not good! Its safe to have an on/off switch for it

J.

ps - Make sure the nozzle assembly is tight and thread locked in place...
pss - If you need any nylon hose (4 or 6mm) let me know.. I have metres of the stuff... lol

GavinP

Slightly off-topic but has anyone with an STI V tried "Water Wetter" or any of the other coolants which claim to reduce internal temperatures ?

I would think that if any car would show a difference, a Scooby would....

Thanks

Gavin

[This message has been edited by GavinP (edited 24-11-1999).]

firefox

Hi craig...

Nope.. not I... A few people run water injection and probably have a similar setup to I.. although I have never met anyone..

The Scoob tuning scene is getting bigger... with people wanting more and more... hence the formation of new aftermarket scoob tuners

I wouldnt bother with any addictive, be it water or oil. If you have to add an addictive to oil, then obviously you are running the wrong type ?

As for water.... why add a coolant..you shouldnt need it... But if you do have a cooling issue..change the stat/temp.... alter your antifreeze ratio... fit an uprated radiator...fit an extra fan if you only have one fitted...

J.

Craig H

J,
That's good 'cos he was a right t**t.
With regards to your intercooler, I know this increase lag. D'ya know if the uprated std fitment ones are worthwhile?
I also saw something about uprated intercooler piping from sti, designed to reduce lag. Done that yet?
Think I'm gonna go the internal route - make sure it's nice and strong before I go silly.

firefox

Craig..

I wasnt him..but I'm still a t**t (well some people think I am)

With a front mount you will get some lag.. but the trick is to match it with the right turbo..

I run a higher flowing turbo..so it pushes more air compared to the standard one I had... (it uses a twin blade compressor wheel - to help minimise lag).

The pipes to and from the I/C play an important part (actually their size and design does).

The STi pipes are silicone based and are smoothed inside... I dont think you will notice any reduction in lag. The only original pipe I have left is the one between the MAF and turbo.... even my water hoses are Samco silicone items..


If you do go for a front mount...consider reversing the inlet manifold (put the throttle body at the front), and rotate the turbo around... just like the WRC

All my mods are bolt on.. and can be taken off and reverted back to standard.... I have reached the limit on what I can do without going internal.... (ok, I can fit a few coolers), but I was talking performane-wise

With my house "issue", I might have to hold off on the internal part... who knows...

People at donno expected to feel lag.. but the ones who went out said they didnt notice any...admittedly the revs were high... I can develop fully boost just after 3500 (if I remember correctly)

J.

Craig H

Think I'm gonna have to go the whole hog just to shut Mr Rainbow up.
Give me 6 months (and that's not inside!)
Know anything about the Jap stroker kits? I know sometime they make the engine less "revvy". Could do with the extra torque tho'

david

Nice one firefox,

A couple more questions though.

Do PE fit the water injection unit as you suggest?

Do/can PE fit the version that maps?

How much do PE sell and fit it for?

Cheers,

Dave

firefox

Hi again..

PE are agents for ERL... yes they can fit the MF2 (mappable) system...

I'm not sure how much they charge for it...as for installation, I assume they will charge based on their hourly rate.

You need to decide what to do about a water tank... I have a custom made stainless tank in my boot (most people saw me filling it - lol). If you are using a tank in the boot make sure you use 6mm hose to it... and put the filter near the tank. Mine is also baffled and fully sealed

As I said before.. make sure you fit a master on/off switch. I can provide a LED rocker switch that clips into the coin holder on the tranny tunnel (next to the hand brake) and requires no cutting or glueing...it just clips in... Red or Green LED available

J.

ps - I think the MF2 system is about 550 quid + vat + fitting.. their basic system is about 310 + vat + fitting

pss - Dont get me started on the 2.2 kits.. lol

[This message has been edited by firefox (edited 24-11-1999).]

david

Ok firefox, one last question.

Can the mappable version map/fit to an Sti V?
How do they do that ?

Cheers,

Dave

DYNT

Firefox - Let me help U here ..*smile*

MF2(Mappable system) works wit STi V .. even any Subaru. U will only used the RPM signal from the original ECU to link wit MF2.

If U r using programmable ECU .. go for System 2c .... works team use this system for their WRC.

To get more information... check out

firefox

Eh ? oh... cheers...

The 2C system requires an ECU that can supply a PWM signal (basically any aftermarket ECU that has a control for an extra injector)

DYNT has answered everything else for me.. I'll shut up then...

J.