Water Injection Tested
#1
I mounted the pump on drivers side underneath the cool air inlet pipe. It took a bit of fiddling to get it in but there is space there. I also looked at putting it just slightly to the back of the winscreen washer bottle, on that nice flat bit of bulkhead. I decided against it because of the possibility of corrosion from drilling there.
The pressure sensor is mounted on the cold air inlet pipe at an angle, this works fine.
Edited to say... There's a nice line from the manifold down by the airbox too for the pressure sensor.
The water is supplied from the washer bottle, i found it was difficult to stop this from leaking and had to not use the inline filter.
The pump suction line and electrics run along the top of the radiator and are ty-wrapped there.
The delivery line runs up to the drivers side suspension turret then along to the intercooler (this gave enough room to avoid the turbo by a good bit).
I then bored through the top of the intercooler and mounted the nozzle there as close to the centre of the outlet as i could. As i've said the hose does sometimes kink.
If you have a standard intercooler i would recomend mounting the nozzle from the bottom, but as it should be at 90degrees to the piping it wasn't possible in my case.
[Edited by RB5_245 - 11/3/2003 1:10:14 PM]
The pressure sensor is mounted on the cold air inlet pipe at an angle, this works fine.
Edited to say... There's a nice line from the manifold down by the airbox too for the pressure sensor.
The water is supplied from the washer bottle, i found it was difficult to stop this from leaking and had to not use the inline filter.
The pump suction line and electrics run along the top of the radiator and are ty-wrapped there.
The delivery line runs up to the drivers side suspension turret then along to the intercooler (this gave enough room to avoid the turbo by a good bit).
I then bored through the top of the intercooler and mounted the nozzle there as close to the centre of the outlet as i could. As i've said the hose does sometimes kink.
If you have a standard intercooler i would recomend mounting the nozzle from the bottom, but as it should be at 90degrees to the piping it wasn't possible in my case.
[Edited by RB5_245 - 11/3/2003 1:10:14 PM]
#2
Here's a bit of info after i fitted ERL aquamist with 0.5mm nozzle.
Running without water injection i was getting 251bhp @ approx 6000 rpm, with 249lb-ft torque @ 3800 rpm.
With water injection the figures are 240bhp @ 5850 rpm and 236lb-ft at 3850 rpm.
This is the average after multiple runs using road dyno. I do think the torque figure is a bit high in the 'without water injection'
This is just some figures i though might interest a few people.
Running without water injection i was getting 251bhp @ approx 6000 rpm, with 249lb-ft torque @ 3800 rpm.
With water injection the figures are 240bhp @ 5850 rpm and 236lb-ft at 3850 rpm.
This is the average after multiple runs using road dyno. I do think the torque figure is a bit high in the 'without water injection'
This is just some figures i though might interest a few people.
#4
I know, it will be mapped shortly.
Here's a thought though, if it's mapped so it needs W.I. then if it packs in, you're in the s*** (Hope the Knocklink works). So how about mapping so as not to need W.I. Then add it in with a shot of nitrous?
Here's a thought though, if it's mapped so it needs W.I. then if it packs in, you're in the s*** (Hope the Knocklink works). So how about mapping so as not to need W.I. Then add it in with a shot of nitrous?
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#10
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Having read quite a lot about WI particularly on US websites including NASIOC many people use screen wash fluid rated to about -30deg F which aparently contains a goodly amount of methanol and is OK with the seals used in WI pumps and fittings.
Not sure about using UK/European washer fluid though.
Andrew...
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If you map without the water and then run it you will of course lose power.
Rather than just low water level, consider a low flow warning.
Personally I am going to try closed loop knock control
so that if the water stops I will have instant retard, plus a visual warning.
[Edited by john banks - 10/24/2003 2:39:56 PM]
Rather than just low water level, consider a low flow warning.
Personally I am going to try closed loop knock control
so that if the water stops I will have instant retard, plus a visual warning.
[Edited by john banks - 10/24/2003 2:39:56 PM]
#15
Yes I bored through the 'S' on the embossed APS logo and nearly destroyed the thing!! I went from top because underneath was not 90degrees to the throttle body.
It's activated at 12psi but is not running usually (until i re-map anyway)
It does fit under the bonnet but sometimes the hose kinks, i'm looking into a hard elbow or a tight spring over it.
It's activated at 12psi but is not running usually (until i re-map anyway)
It does fit under the bonnet but sometimes the hose kinks, i'm looking into a hard elbow or a tight spring over it.
#17
I can take some and e-mail them, but posting pics here is a little beyond me.
Edited to say 'i will do, hold on a few moments!'
Edited again to say 'got photos but dopey here left the usb cable for the camera floating round the carrebean on the ms zaandam!'
[Edited by RB5_245 - 11/2/2003 9:04:14 PM]
[Edited by RB5_245 - 11/2/2003 9:47:43 PM]
Edited to say 'i will do, hold on a few moments!'
Edited again to say 'got photos but dopey here left the usb cable for the camera floating round the carrebean on the ms zaandam!'
[Edited by RB5_245 - 11/2/2003 9:04:14 PM]
[Edited by RB5_245 - 11/2/2003 9:47:43 PM]
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