jonmyers

I came to replace the fuel reg today but got stuck trying to remove the original one. I simply couldn't get those screws undone. Even removed the turbo heat shield (loosing my 10mm ratchet spanner in the process!) but no luck. So ended-up putting the rest back as was for now and soaking the screws in plus-gas.

Any hints would be gratefully received.

Thanks,

Jon

RogerO

I know all to well mate!
It ended with removing the turbo ( a shear h*ll in it self since rhe screws had rusted badly)
Try a solution containing diamondpowder to increase the friction otherwise there´s a risk of distroying, at least, the lower of the
two screws.

Good luck!

Abbylad

iTrader: (4)

i absolutely fooked the bottom screw and my knuckles doing mine. Get as many screwdrivers of varying lengths together as you can and then start trying them, i found one with a big handle but that was only about 6" long and that was perfect, but i gave the end of the driver a good belt with a hammer to make sure the screwdriver had a good grip and then put everything into turning it, and it came loose! along with a fair bit of skin.

Went to work the next day and liberated 2 5mm x 25mm long stainless steel cap screws to fit the adaptor thingy on with. Its miles easier using a screw you can tighten with an allan key. Job done! about 4 hours later than i thought it would take!

David_Wallis

use an 8mm spanner..

David

tweenierob

lol!! took the words out of my mouth!!
8mm spanner or a 1/4"drive screwdriver with a UJ on it and an 8mm socket.

Rob

jonmyers

Well at least i'm not the only one! The turbo tho...

8 mm won't work as it's a common steel screw on mine.

I'll have another go now then...

Cheers, Jon

tweenierob

Just be careful with the screwdriver then, the last thing you wanna do is round the inside off.. (rob states the obvious)
Make sure the screwdriver you choose to take on your task is sharp.

Rob

RogerO

Reason I removed the turbo was initially a swap to a TD05
Be careful anyway `cause IF you f**k up the lower screw (it´s a Philips or Posidrive as you say) you probably have to remove the turbo if you want the OE FPR removed.
A laymans opinion though!

Cheers Roger

jonmyers

well thanks for the replies. Still no luck though - even tried an impact driver but couldn't get it square in never mind space to swing a hammer! It'll have to stay now until i do the turbo unless anyone has a magic solution??

Cheers, Jon

tweenierob

Worst case rather than remove the turbo, undo the fuel pipe and vacumn pipe to the reg, unclip the injector connectors (it rhymes), take off the front fuel rail connector and unbolt the rail from the manifold completely.
A bit less hassle than taking the turbo off.

Rob

jonmyers

Thanks Rob - that sounds a little more manageable.

vulnax999

iTrader: (7)

Any reason you can't leave the OEM FPR in place, and mount the new FSE FPR near by ?

jonmyers

well that's an interesting question...

I had assumed you needed to remove the existing one in order that the new reg would do its job?

Mine is still in the box at the back of the garage.

Bob Rawle

The oe reg is in the end of the fuel rail, you remove it to fit an adaptor to allow connection to the replacement (normally). You could leave in place and fit the new reg in series BUT, if you do then you will defeat the objective which is to allow linear pressure control with boost/vac. The oe reg can't flow enough fuel and acts as a restrictor when used with an uprated pump.

bob

vulnax999

iTrader: (7)

Right.

I hadn't realised the path of the fuel was down the body of the OEM reg, assumed it was like the remote fuel filter, so a remote fuel pressure reg would be ok via the hoses...

So the fuel goes thru the adaptor thingy into the rails .. hence remove OEM and replace with that square bit, and attach to the actual regulator body.

Hope mine hae 8 mm bolts then!

Bob Rawle

If its an FSE reg then the holes in the adaptor are too big so you need to use largish washers with the correct screws, it is best to use cap head or hex head screws when fitting.

bob