induction strange advantage
#1
Hi, yesterday ive fitted induction kit on my95 jap spec WRX. Instead of getting stroger my car reacted very strange. It seems there is more lag now and engine revs not free as before. Supposed to be the way different. Could it be that MAF somehow is not happy with new filter or what other reasons can be?
Also there was one hose which originaly went from intake to solenoid and it was broken on std intake. Now with new intake its in position and maybe thats what made it react this way.
May anybody sudjest.
Also there was one hose which originaly went from intake to solenoid and it was broken on std intake. Now with new intake its in position and maybe thats what made it react this way.
May anybody sudjest.
#2
The one that goes to the Intakefrom the solenoid is part of your boost control. In all likelihood, if that was disconnected you were overboosting. I am surprised you did not hit your fuel cut!
Now you have reconnected it, your car is running factory boost again.
I have had this problem as well: If you have a boost gauge you will see the following:
Without hose:
Boost shoots up rapidly to 1.1-1.2BAR before ECU frantically adjusts boost solenoid and gets it back down to 0.8Bar or so. Your car will feel incredibly fast as it accelerates, but feel a bit gutless after 4200rpms or so.
With hose:
Boost stabilises at around 0.8Bar and stays there. Car feels slower but has consistent power throughout the range.
I would check you do not have a Fuel Cut Defender installed!!!
If you don't, and you want all the power back, you could buy a knocklink and a Dawes device (about £220 all in) and run about 1.0Bar - 1.1Bar of boost pretty safely, and have a lot of power throughout the range.
Now you have reconnected it, your car is running factory boost again.
I have had this problem as well: If you have a boost gauge you will see the following:
Without hose:
Boost shoots up rapidly to 1.1-1.2BAR before ECU frantically adjusts boost solenoid and gets it back down to 0.8Bar or so. Your car will feel incredibly fast as it accelerates, but feel a bit gutless after 4200rpms or so.
With hose:
Boost stabilises at around 0.8Bar and stays there. Car feels slower but has consistent power throughout the range.
I would check you do not have a Fuel Cut Defender installed!!!
If you don't, and you want all the power back, you could buy a knocklink and a Dawes device (about £220 all in) and run about 1.0Bar - 1.1Bar of boost pretty safely, and have a lot of power throughout the range.
#3
One of the disadvantages of an induction kit is loss in low down torque.!! i had this on my MY95 WRX..!!! It is because the air filter will be drawing hot air in from the surrounding engine bay.... You can over come this or improve it by either fitting some shielding around the filter or buying one of these like on my car..!!
Dan
Dan
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#6
Now i realise i was overboosting. Heat from exhaustheaders (i got tuned length) was real high and now it seems ok. I think i had this hose broken for a couple of weeeks, since i fitted headers and got it broken (i even didnt mention it till now). Could overboosting have caused damage to engine? How to check it? Oil level is ok. Should i check compression?
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#8
Er...sorry....don't understand your last post?
If I were you the first two things I would do before you do ANY more modifications is go out and buy yourself a boost gauge and a Knocklink. Unless you have both of these, you have no idea what your engine is doing.
The Knocklink will flash a big red light at you if your Ar/Fuel mixture is bad
The BoostGuage will tell you if you are overboosting etc.
If you have a Fuel Cut Defender fitted, and do not have a knocklink, then I would disconnect the Fuel Cut Defender.
If I were you the first two things I would do before you do ANY more modifications is go out and buy yourself a boost gauge and a Knocklink. Unless you have both of these, you have no idea what your engine is doing.
The Knocklink will flash a big red light at you if your Ar/Fuel mixture is bad
The BoostGuage will tell you if you are overboosting etc.
If you have a Fuel Cut Defender fitted, and do not have a knocklink, then I would disconnect the Fuel Cut Defender.
#9
sorry for pure english. there is fuel cut defender positioned to check if it is fitted or not. cause i didnt fit it.
also about damage to engine - could that overboosting period cause some. how to find if engine is in good condition or not.
also about damage to engine - could that overboosting period cause some. how to find if engine is in good condition or not.
#10
TBH you are probably okay: you might want to get it compression tested, but there is a fair bit of tolerance on the engine, and your ECU would most likely retard the ignition if you were getting knock. I dunno much about internals....you might do better asking someone like R19KET.
Your english isn't too bad: It's 100% better than my Russian!
A Fuel Cut Defender (FCD) can be mounted anywhere: It is either a device in the pipe to your MAP sensor, or in the wiring near your MAP sensor, or in the wiring near your ECU.
The MAP sensor is the little balck box mounted on the suspension turret with all the other gubbins. The ECU is under a kick plate in the passenger footwell.
Your english isn't too bad: It's 100% better than my Russian!
A Fuel Cut Defender (FCD) can be mounted anywhere: It is either a device in the pipe to your MAP sensor, or in the wiring near your MAP sensor, or in the wiring near your ECU.
The MAP sensor is the little balck box mounted on the suspension turret with all the other gubbins. The ECU is under a kick plate in the passenger footwell.
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