Head gaskets - where?
#1
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Where is a good place for head gaskets that are either cheaper or better than Subaru dealer? Does replacement require taking the engine out?! Thanks
#2
I have just been reminded of the outfit called Option Motorsport who have, in the past, told someone that they can change the engine bearings without pulling the engine out. I guess they could manage a gasket swap in situ if no one else can.
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Said it before....you would need to be very keen to attempt both head gaskets with the engine in the car.
IMO only an idiot would bother with teh extra hassle and work it would create.
Take the engine out
And if there is someone around that can change the bearings ( big ends and mains ) on a subaru, with the engine in situ ( ie bolted to the gearbox, and still bolted to the car ), I will pay money to watch them do it.
IMO only an idiot would bother with teh extra hassle and work it would create.
Take the engine out
And if there is someone around that can change the bearings ( big ends and mains ) on a subaru, with the engine in situ ( ie bolted to the gearbox, and still bolted to the car ), I will pay money to watch them do it.
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forgive me for not having done it before but what do I need to disconnect (apart from the obvious indction hoses and water plumbing) in order to get the engine out? Are there loads of wiring loom conectors?
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Just done this last week..
Too much hassle to even think about leaving the engine in the car to do the head gaskets..
Remove all fuel lines.
Heater hoses..
Downpipe..
Clutch arm..
Starter motor..
Upper gearbox tension support arm (more lift on gearbox, makes it easier to remove engine with box in place)
unplug the wiring loom (both connectors) these are situated under the washer bottle..
Two engine mount nuts (14mm)
And lift....
If the gearbox has not been split before it will be a pig to get off the engine...
However, removing the engine from a scoob has been one of the easiest i have ever done...
I definately wouldnt attempt taking the heads off with the engine still in the car, especially as i have removed the engine and seen how much easier it is..
Rob
Too much hassle to even think about leaving the engine in the car to do the head gaskets..
Remove all fuel lines.
Heater hoses..
Downpipe..
Clutch arm..
Starter motor..
Upper gearbox tension support arm (more lift on gearbox, makes it easier to remove engine with box in place)
unplug the wiring loom (both connectors) these are situated under the washer bottle..
Two engine mount nuts (14mm)
And lift....
If the gearbox has not been split before it will be a pig to get off the engine...
However, removing the engine from a scoob has been one of the easiest i have ever done...
I definately wouldnt attempt taking the heads off with the engine still in the car, especially as i have removed the engine and seen how much easier it is..
Rob
#7
Hi mate.
How long it take you to get Engine out ? . Just been Quoted £930 to do Head gaskets on legacy Turbo ( ouch ). Done Head gaskets on normal Engines before , but never Scoob. Any help please mate.
Steve
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Are you going to do the job yourself? I don't have an engine hoist or anywhere to do such a big job so I'm gonna have to get my good old garage. Have you looked into getting a replacement engine?
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Firstly, whilst teh engine was out i did teh parallel feed mod to the inletmanifold/fuel rails..
It took me a while to remove the engine as i went very slow and removed evrything before lifting the engine out..
I reckon i could lift it out in an hour if i needed to do it in a hurry..
If you dont have a hoist, hire one.... It cost me £30 for a weeks hire and was a godsend... it made it a lot easier to take off the headers and manouvure teh engien about when needed.
If you were pressed for time (first time) i would allow about 2hours for removal, 4 hours for heads removal, cleaning and then 2 hours for engine replacement.. possible days work to do the gaskets and have the car back on the road...
FORGOT TO ADD!!!!!!!!!!!!
You also have to move the power steering pump out of the way, DO NOT undue the pipes to the pump, just unbolt the pump and move it into the drivers side of the engine bay so that it is out of the way for the lift... easy..
Also remove the rad, just to give you extra clearance, adn so that you dont damage it..
Rob
p.s. if any of you want a gasket set let me know, the sets i supply cover legacys and impreza's 2.0/2.2/2.5
Also includes steel head gaskets as well as all gaskets needed for the job..
It took me a while to remove the engine as i went very slow and removed evrything before lifting the engine out..
I reckon i could lift it out in an hour if i needed to do it in a hurry..
If you dont have a hoist, hire one.... It cost me £30 for a weeks hire and was a godsend... it made it a lot easier to take off the headers and manouvure teh engien about when needed.
If you were pressed for time (first time) i would allow about 2hours for removal, 4 hours for heads removal, cleaning and then 2 hours for engine replacement.. possible days work to do the gaskets and have the car back on the road...
FORGOT TO ADD!!!!!!!!!!!!
You also have to move the power steering pump out of the way, DO NOT undue the pipes to the pump, just unbolt the pump and move it into the drivers side of the engine bay so that it is out of the way for the lift... easy..
Also remove the rad, just to give you extra clearance, adn so that you dont damage it..
Rob
p.s. if any of you want a gasket set let me know, the sets i supply cover legacys and impreza's 2.0/2.2/2.5
Also includes steel head gaskets as well as all gaskets needed for the job..
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tweenierob - how much for a headgasket set? I seem to remember seeing a set in my garage amidst all the junk but can't be sure so might need a set.
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£120 inc delivery
Must add that these are not composite gaskets, they are proper steel head gaskets, every gasket needed manifolds/crank oil seals/cam covers/throttle body/ISCV/Coil pack, spark seals/valve stem seals.. and more
Have been told that the set retails at £360 from subaru.
Rob
Any other questions on the removal?? whilst it is fresh in my mind
Must add that these are not composite gaskets, they are proper steel head gaskets, every gasket needed manifolds/crank oil seals/cam covers/throttle body/ISCV/Coil pack, spark seals/valve stem seals.. and more
Have been told that the set retails at £360 from subaru.
Rob
Any other questions on the removal?? whilst it is fresh in my mind
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I'm still not convinced that my problems are head gasket. Never overheated or given any sign at all before the altenrator packed up. I'm having a last ditch suspect at the ecu before heading down the head gasket route. Thanks for advice - good deal on the gasket sets!
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from my other post: "Wonder if anyone can help - here's the story.
Car died on me one night - driving along (total civil mode - ie no boost) and then spluttered and conked out. Battery gone dead - no real prob dead alternator. Called AA - twiddled thumbs for ages and apologized to girlfriend extensively for the inconvenience. AA man came put his spare battery pack on, turn key, fires up and idles sweet as usual. OK - decide to put his battery pack onto front seat and run cables under bonnet to get home. Battery, cables and bonnet secure turn key - doesn't start. Ok - maybe his battery going bit flat too. Booster cables out and plug into his van - turn key, sort of starts, splutters, die. Now cold and late - agree to sod it and just tow home couple of miles.
Today, replaced alternator and battery. Turn key, starts, white smoke, engine runs 5 - 10 seconds then splutters and dies. Done all the variations - start, rev, still white smoke, stinks of petrol (and/or oil - not sure), splutter, die. Checked all fuses and even tried a different MAF but still the same. Checked water exansion tank - no sign of oil so don't think it's head gasket (should still run tho right?). Turbo surely can't have failed - besides, should still run right? - albeit with loadsa smoke.
I'm quite convinced that the problem isn't mechanical. It has to be something that happened when we were messing around trying to get the AA man's battery pack and cables secured so I could drive it home. What bothers me is the smoke. Could this a fuelling problem? "
Car died on me one night - driving along (total civil mode - ie no boost) and then spluttered and conked out. Battery gone dead - no real prob dead alternator. Called AA - twiddled thumbs for ages and apologized to girlfriend extensively for the inconvenience. AA man came put his spare battery pack on, turn key, fires up and idles sweet as usual. OK - decide to put his battery pack onto front seat and run cables under bonnet to get home. Battery, cables and bonnet secure turn key - doesn't start. Ok - maybe his battery going bit flat too. Booster cables out and plug into his van - turn key, sort of starts, splutters, die. Now cold and late - agree to sod it and just tow home couple of miles.
Today, replaced alternator and battery. Turn key, starts, white smoke, engine runs 5 - 10 seconds then splutters and dies. Done all the variations - start, rev, still white smoke, stinks of petrol (and/or oil - not sure), splutter, die. Checked all fuses and even tried a different MAF but still the same. Checked water exansion tank - no sign of oil so don't think it's head gasket (should still run tho right?). Turbo surely can't have failed - besides, should still run right? - albeit with loadsa smoke.
I'm quite convinced that the problem isn't mechanical. It has to be something that happened when we were messing around trying to get the AA man's battery pack and cables secured so I could drive it home. What bothers me is the smoke. Could this a fuelling problem? "
#20
If the smoke is black(ish) then could well be a fueling problem.
If it is blue(ish) then oil is coming through somewhere - possibly head gasket
If it is white(ish) then it is likely to be steam - almost certainly head gasket
Brown Trout
If it is blue(ish) then oil is coming through somewhere - possibly head gasket
If it is white(ish) then it is likely to be steam - almost certainly head gasket
Brown Trout
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2nd that...
If the head gasket has gone between the cylinder and a waterway then you will have almost no oil in your water system..
It does honestly sound like head gasket failure tbh, especially with white smoke from the exhaust..
Might be worth doing a compression check on the engine??
Rob
If the head gasket has gone between the cylinder and a waterway then you will have almost no oil in your water system..
It does honestly sound like head gasket failure tbh, especially with white smoke from the exhaust..
Might be worth doing a compression check on the engine??
Rob
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...is head gasket finally. Still find it bizarre that it would occur at the same time the alternator decided to pack up. I've seen no signs of overheating or any other of a pending head gasket failure - it just decided it wouldn't run. Managed to get the car to trusty local garage I've been using for yonks. Need to convince mechanic that it's not too much of a nightmare job. Thanks for help from everyone.
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