Brynweb

It started this morning. Check engine light illuminated, and when I accelerated slightly harder than normal, engine cut out at about 3000rpm. Dribbled into work, called RAC, and took it for a spin with him. I could put pressure on the accelerator pedal normally - engine light had gone off completely, but there's absolutely nothing coming from the turbo (it's like driving an Impreza Sport).

I have Blitz dump valve, boost gauge, and we checked all connections and couldn't find anything loose or damaged.

Anyone have any suggestions on what to look for??

fivepint

do an ECU check, connect black connectors under the dash (direct under steering wheel), then turn the ignition to on (do not start the car) tyhe engine check light will flash, if it hasnt recorded a fault (unlikely given the symptoms uve described). it will flash consistently *_*_*_*_*_*_*_*

if it has recorded a fault it will flash a code or codes
*_* *_*_* *_* *_*_* = code 23

do a search for the breakdown of codes it will help diagnose the prob

cheers

Brynweb

Just taken a look, but there are no 2 connectors. There was a female connector manufactured into the under dash that something obviously plugs into.

I failed to mention that the yom is 2001. Maybe the 2 connectors you talk of are only applicable to the older model?

Thanks for your help though. Would have been really useful if I had those damn connectors!

Bryn

ZIPPY

Check your actuator arm hasnt come off the wastegate,i've had this happen on 2 MY01 cars, you can see if its off if you shine a small torch under your heatshiled at the top of your turbo.
You will need a 5mm 'E' clip if it has, to replace the lost one.

Zippy

fivepint

that sounds like the diagnostic port that the subaru select monitor plugs into, Im not 100% if this feature is on the "new" shape, but I would assume it is... the connectors can be tucked away up under the dash and hard to find at first...

best of luck sorting it, the above sounds a bit closer to the mark

dnb

If the car is quite new, the diagnostic connectors may never have been used, so they could be wrapped in black tape to make them difficult to see...

Brynweb

Finally found the connectors after a neck stretch! Test proved ok - engine light just flashed with no error codes being produced.

Also checked the arm thing on the turbo, which appears to be fine.

Looks like I'm off to my Subaru dealer tomorrow.

Thanks for your help all the same everyone.

Bryn

fivepint

hmm even stranger, best of luck, keep us [osted with their diagnosis...

Cheers

Brynweb

After 3 hours of waiting, Subaru dealer couldn't find out what was wrong with it, but they suggested it could be a faulty dump valve. Have to take it back on Friday so they can try again

Dark Blue Mark

Doubt its the DV.....

MB

fivepint

have u tried replacing the original DV? what is ur boost gauge showing? are u running standard intercooler piping? have they checked for splits etc?

3hrs u think theyd feckin solve it!!!

Cheers

Brynweb

Boost gauge reads negative on idle (normal), and atmospheric pressure (0) on acceleration.

The workshop asked me to take the original dv in on Friday, but I doubt this is the problem because I used to hear the turbo spool, and now I hear nothing from it - I'm assuming it would still spool up despite a faulty dv?

All piping is original, but the intercooler was taken off a month ago to aid the fitting of a decat downpipe. I'm starting to wonder if either the downpipe has caused a problem, or as you suggest, a pipe has become damaged somehow.

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

Check your intercooler piping, from turbo to intercooler from intercooler to inlet manifold, and that your dumpvalve is on ok.

You should be able to feel any air being blown out of any loose pipes, if there are any loose pipes.

I would replace your dump valve to standard (if you can do it yourself) and see if he same problem exists.

Did it stall at all or just run rough and then not "boost" above 3000rpm?

scoobyexhausts

it could be the maf sensor it sounds like because its put the car in fail safe mode where it wont let the car run over 3000 rpm
just a idear Paul

scoobyexhausts

it could be the maf sensor it sounds like it because its put the car in fail safe mode where it wont let the car run over 3000 rpm
just a idear Paul

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

in get me home mode, the car WILL go above 3000rpm, it just wont run at full boost IIRC when it happened on mine, allbeit a MY00.

This is saying NO boost at ALL, so therefore there could be a leak somewhere in the boost pipes IMO.

Bob Rawle

If its got absolutely no boost then the intercooler pipe has probably split or come off under the intercooler itself. Its only plastic and easily damaged. I usually suggest changing to Samco if higher boost is being run as they are notoriously weak. hard to spot unless you know but have a close look at the convoluted section just after the 90 deg bend as it exits the turbo.

Apart from that it's a dump valve check. If the ecu puts it into limp home you canm still make up to about 0.5 bar boost. If the solenoid was stuck you should again get 0.5 bar boost.

edited to say that the turbo could be defunct ie not spooling although its a rare occurance.

[Edited by Bob Rawle - 1/15/2003 11:47:07 PM]

Brynweb

This is weird...

Started engine to drive home from work today, and the turbo was back on at normal??

So - I guess that rules out faulty pipes.

Haven't got a CLUE what this is about, but I guess I shouldn't ignore it because it'll probably happen again some time.

How odd.

steve_blackburn

I've got a my94 import (fitted with superchip and boost widgit) and have had a similar problem with boost. Every now and again it feels like you are driving an Impreza Sport. Turbo kicks in only at around 5000rpm - way above normal.
I was advised by Falkland that it may be a sticking solenoid and to squirt brake cleaner fluid into the solenoid. This causes the car to run like a pig for around 70 miles (engine cuts right back violently when you put peddle to floor as you get to 2800 rpm) however, once cleared it did seem to clear the original problem.
This has just re-ocurred and I am about to do the same.
Did you ever get yours sorted?
Steve

Brynweb

I did - at a great expense of £2927.47

The de-cat down-pipe was letting hot air into the turbo up-pipe. The precat within the up-pipe melted and sent molten metal flying into the turbo unit.

Now back to standard.