ScoobyJawa

Not sure if its relevant, just had another thought.

When I took the car out at 8ish to take the missus, I got down the road (warming the car up) got to a roundabout (was in 2nd) tried to change into 3rd and couldn't. The gear lever was stuck on the left hand side, only able to engage 1st and 2nd. Stopped the car, wiggled it a bit, eventually popped back into the middle, could now only engage 3rd and 4th. Wiggled it a bit more and it freed itself, able to get into every gear. And it didn't do it again. Not sure if its related

Oh, and car spec might help! MY99 UK 4 door, TEK2.5 with 17PSI boost target, full decat, K&N 57i & DIY Cold air feed to cone, Samco Boost Hoses, Intercooler splitter

[Edited by ScoobyJawa - 12/11/2002 1:11:45 AM]

john banks

I'm sure PE could sort it for you (they did the map IIRC I can't remember who was done where with all the different Scoobynet pseudonyms)? But a 3 port would do the trick but would need some time remapping it.

The trouble is everyone moans about cars not making enough boost in summer... I hate 2 ports. The Dawes is an improvement, but I feel the 3 port if you don't mind paying £150 for one + mapping is better. I got one for £35 from Grade A Subaru. Don't buy them all though

[Edited by john banks - 12/11/2002 10:34:34 AM]

ScoobyJawa

Was out at midnight picking up the other half, on the way there down the dual carriageway (lots of grit all over the road too), I pulled out to overtake in 5th, pedal to the floor and the gauge shot round to 1.6, I came off immediately and took it easy from there on, got to the golf club where I was due to be the taxi and heard a metallic rattling sound from the car while I sat there idling

There was no fuel/boost cut when it overboosted, most likely coz I came off so quick. There has been no Check Engine light and the engine still seems to be running ok. There is absolutely no smoke at all from the exhaust - clear as a bell. The car is still allowing full boost (only tried once to see) - no limp home mode holding it back to 0.7.

You can hardly hear it at all when you are driving and otherwise the car sounds as it always has. I stopped in some lit up area (away from locals to moan about the noise) and popped the bonnet. The noise does not appear to be coming from the engine itself but more like the downpipe/turbo area. If you stand next to the car it sounds like the rattle is coming from underneath mid way along the car in the middle (like the centre section) but that could be the rattling noise travelling down the exhaust....

When I pulled up at home and pulled onto the driveway, the noise was hardly evident at all.......

Anyone got any thoughts ideas as to whats given up? What I can look at/check? Gonna start her up again in the morning and see what happens and try and get a recording of the noise. Or should I just get it recovered to a garage?

R19KET

Hmmmm, it sounds like the overboost may have caused you to break a tooth off a gear. It would explain the gearbox jamming.

I would suggest dumping the gearbox oil, and checking it for debri. Then I would get the overboost issue addressed.

Mark.

ozzy

The gear synchros are prone to go on the UK MY99/00. Usual symptom is a very notchy and difficult (or impossible) to select 3rd gear. May just be a one-off, but 3rd gear seems to be a common problem with a lot of gear boxes.

May (or may not) be related. Where was the metallic sound coming from? engine bay or under the centre console?

Stefan

john banks

The next question if it is your gearbox is why did it go to 1.6 bar? What is the boost control usually like?

ScoobyJawa

Thanks for the answers guys.

Mark - the gear issue(selection problem) happened 4 hours before the overboost occured. Although its possible that the overboost did cause it to break a tooth, I'm not sure how related they are.

Ozzy - only a quick look last night but the rattle sounded like it was coming from the downpipe area of the engine bay or just behind that, so I suppose underneath where the console may be, about to go and have another look.

John - Boost control has been pretty good up to now (normally goes straight up and holds 1.25 on the gauge). I had 2 seperate issues of overboost to 1.4 a while ago but it never did it since. I'm still running on the standard restrictor, maybe that needs changing, or perhaps I need to get a Dawes on there to stop it? I imagine the other route is a 3 port solenoid and a remap?

If it has broken a tooth off the gear, I was in 5th at the time, so I assume it would have broken the tooth off 5th? If this is the case would 5th still work fine? as the car seemed to be driving ok when I drove it home?

As for the gear oil - how do I drain that then, and what do I replace it with (and where do I get it from?) If there is metal in there - what next?

So many Q's!!!! Cheers!

LG John

1.6 Bar!!!!!!! That is a monster overboost for your set up?!?! I've got a similar set up and hold 1.25bar and I've never had it overboost, 1.6 would take me off the scale on my boost gauge

Sorry I can't offer any specific help but breifly hitting 1.6bar is unlikely to wreck the gearbox in its self given that John has the same gearbox with 280bhp at the wheels. Nevertheless, sounds like that is where the 'sound' and therein trouble is coming from

Quick question, does the intercooler spliter make any difference in your opinion?

ScoobyJawa

1.6 is rather alot But then the same thing happened to a friends car yesterday - he hit 1.6 too, and his gearbox is fine

As for your setup - don't you run a Dawes too? that should stop the overboost happening - I think - and hence why yours doesn't do it!

Intercooler splitter - not so much in winter as its cold already but in the summer I think it makes a bit of a difference, the car seems to feel more responsive with it fitted. Anyhow, Subaru fit it to the STi7 so it must do something

LG John

Will look to find a spare £20 notes kicking around in the summer then Cheers

Your right that I run a dawes and John swears it gives better boost control. I've never owned my car without it on so I can't comment but I trust his judgement on that one. I can see how it could happen though if your boost started to run away before the ECU could catch it. Did it feel fast, briefly?

If it is the gearbox I suspect its likely to be a case of 'the last straw....' as opposed to the overboost being the direct cause.

ScoobyJawa

Right, been out to the car this morning, started and nothing

Sounded fine/normal, no rattle, well other than the normal Subaru rattles . Normal smoke I'd expect from the exhaust on a cold morning, but nothing else

Expect I better keep my eye on it, and sort the overboost (any suggestions?) Its in to Subaru 4 U for a service in a few weeks anyway, so will get Len to double check it out.......

LG John

Don't you hate that

After my 'fuel surge' spin the diffs were making some horrible noises and I was sh1tting myself but after a loud crack one day they went back to normal. The car has been fine ever since and the diffs have been sending power back and forth no problem on the slippy stuff. Can't help but worry about what happened but I guess I just need to get on with things and hope its all ok!

ScoobyJawa

Yep - I've run Dawes pre Tek then got rid of it when I had the TEK. In most conditions the TEK is fine but obviously needs a bit of work to get boost control better.

LOL @ feeling fast - well I was in 5th so not that fast, plus I came off real quick anyway, however, she was flying in 3rd and 4th and I've only ever had the overboost in 5th.

ScoobyJawa

Well, if I can get a 3 port for 35 quid, then I'll go down that route Yep, PE did my car as it was used as the demo car on their EcuTek Open Day, so I'll see what they say.

MorayMackenzie

Theres no chance it could be a broken exhaust heatshield rettling on a car of this vintage?

I have driven a uk97 lump boosted to 1.6bar or so, that really flew, and the gearbox survived the ordeal.

ScoobyJawa

Update - Nope its fecked

Took it easy to work this morning and it was fine.

Coming home at lunch I thought I'd try a bit of boost in 4th to see what happened and it flew straight up to what looked like 1.4 held, of course I came off again as soon as I saw. The rattle is now back. I've had the bonnet it and its definately coming from the turbo/downpipe area. Wastegate sort of area, but definately around there. Could the rattle be a fecked wastegate?

Would this account also for the car boosting up to 1.4 straight away and if so does it mean a new turbo or can something be done to the wastegate?

Cheers
Neil :-(

ScoobyJawa

Moray - I too thought the sheild first, but really sounds like its from the turbo. Suppose I should get it to a garage and checked. But thought I'd see on here thoughts first

Cheers!

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

Wonder if it could be the actuator. The standard actuators are rated to that high a bar IIRC, it could be knackered, allowing the wastegate to open and close like no tomorrow.

Having said that you would not get boost.

Is it a standard TD04 turbo?

Wonder if its overspooled and the old girl has blown a few bits off/bearings gone? Not sure now?

i will shut up now

ScoobyJawa

Well it certainly sounds like its coming from the turbo/wastegate, eg underneath the heat sheild...

Seems like the boost control has gone out the window, and hence hitting such a high figure on my test at lunch

Yep - its the standard TD04. Can I disconnect a pipe to put the car in limp home so I can drive it to a garage or will I have to get it recovered there?

EvilBevel

Could be the boost solenoid stuck open ?

To get limp home mode, you can disconnect the power to the solenoid. I've done this a few times when my solenoid was fried (open) with no ill effects. Boost should then be 0.7 bar max, but even then, you can just take it easy with the right foot & not make boost at all.

ScoobyJawa

Cheers

I've spoken to Len at Subaru 4 You and he's going to drive over tonight and have a look at it - what a top bloke
His initial thoughts one of: turbo impeller, exhaust vane or wastegate arm become unattached.

GTJ

ScoobyJawa,

I had the same problem (exactly) with my Scooby MY99 (PPP) when I was driving on the track.
After I while, I discovered that the waste-gate valve was clamping en the valve (disc) was rattling against the turbinehousing.
I could see this because the heat-shield wasn't mounted.
The WG-actuator spring wasn't strong enough to close the valve!!
After hitting it with a screwdriver the valve was puled back suddenly.
I restarted the engine and the sound was gone.
Then I opened the WG-valve (a bit) with the screwdriver (pushing on the arm) and the sound was back again.
After a couple of good moves forward and backward (by spring) it didn't clamped again.
I think that the shaft where the WG-valve is mounted to, has had a seizure in the turbine housing.
I still have to dismount the turbo to check this.

Kind regards

Gert-Jan

nom

Of strange things to have sitting in the cupboard doing nothing, I have a TD04. If it's your wastegate acting up - or anything else to do with the turbo - I'm pretty sure we can do some sort of swapsies with the thing to keep you on the road, as doubtless it could take a while to get yours fixed...
If that helps!

ScoobyJawa

Gert-Jan,

Thanks very much for that, I'll mention this to Len when he comes, he'll have a much better idea of what to be looking for than me

Thanks

ScoobyJawa

Nom,

Thanks for the offer mate :d Will bear you in mind. A friend locally has a brand new TD04 I can have off him if it needs a new turbo, but if the whole turbo doesn't need replacing its probably not worth taking it off his hands and just replacing the effected part - in which case I may well get in touch

Thanks again

ScoobyJawa

Len's been over, pretty sure its the turbo, gonna explore on Monday and if dead fit a new one!

GTJ

ScoobyJawa,

my defect was in april this year. I didn't change anything, but still have to check it. The car performance is as before, but I'm still a bit concerned about it. Let me know what you will find.

Gert-Jan

ScoobyJawa

No problem , I'll let you know what the outcome is.
Current thinking is that the impeller blade/s has fractured and caused an imbalance in the shaft thats causing the remaining fins to rub against the turbo housing. Anyway, until the turbo is off we won't know for sure......

Sheepsplitter

If it is the turbo, why not get it reconditioned instead of buying a new one.
This has many benefits:-
a) Cheaper (by miles)
b) If it's done by a reputable company it will come back perfectly balanced. Many new turbos are not perfectly balanced because manufacturing tollerances are not as good as those used by an individual when reassembling your turbo.

I had mine done at 55K miles and it came back in mint condition, I was getting better spool up and it felt great.

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

Buy a hybrid