LSD
#1
I do not know many things about this but someone tell me that it a is very good upgrade to make in a MY00.
I would like to know tree things:
In front or rear (or two)?? I am thinking only in front. What do you think?
I want a two ways kind. So what is the best (price/performance)?
And where can I buy it and what is the price (more or less)?
Thanks.
I would like to know tree things:
In front or rear (or two)?? I am thinking only in front. What do you think?
I want a two ways kind. So what is the best (price/performance)?
And where can I buy it and what is the price (more or less)?
Thanks.
#3
Scooby Senior
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Zurich, Switzerland
Posts: 3,105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
About 500 pounds for a front ATB direct from Quaife. They also do a rear, but I have no experience of it.
If I could do it again, I'd also fit a stronger centre differential while the gearbox was out.
Be very careful when driving the car the first time after fitting - it changes the character considerably.
Works very well for me, but I guess it depends what other mods you've got.
Richard
If I could do it again, I'd also fit a stronger centre differential while the gearbox was out.
Be very careful when driving the car the first time after fitting - it changes the character considerably.
Works very well for me, but I guess it depends what other mods you've got.
Richard
#4
Richard,
You don´t need to take the gearbox out to change the centre diff!
You only have to remove the prop shaft to the rear diff and remove the last part of the housing. It´s an easy job!
Mark.
You don´t need to take the gearbox out to change the centre diff!
You only have to remove the prop shaft to the rear diff and remove the last part of the housing. It´s an easy job!
Mark.
#6
Which differencies between ATB Quaife (simply torsen) and Viscous coupling LSD from Sti, when you drive it?
And dowser:
1)have you first experiences (if the car turns better, if you can do sideways easilly etc.) I would like to buy one but havent final decision which one.
2) why the uprated central diff?
In mondyz I will buy damaged Sti and I will transfer all the Sti parts into my 4-door turbo. Do you know - have the Sti 3 uprated central, rear against 4-door Turbo UK?
And dowser:
1)have you first experiences (if the car turns better, if you can do sideways easilly etc.) I would like to buy one but havent final decision which one.
2) why the uprated central diff?
In mondyz I will buy damaged Sti and I will transfer all the Sti parts into my 4-door turbo. Do you know - have the Sti 3 uprated central, rear against 4-door Turbo UK?
#7
Scooby Senior
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Zurich, Switzerland
Posts: 3,105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi hrubago - still not decided?!
I don't know how a torsen front compares to a viscous one - all euro (and most STi's) have open front diffs. I would imagine the torsen reacts much quicker because it's geared.
On unknown roads it's great, allowing throttle to be used to tighten the line in most cases when required. On track I initially found my entry speed had to be perfect - too fast entry would mean throttle at the apex just caused more front drift (already lost grip due to entry speed). I've improved this via other suspension/geometry mods, but it can't be removed altogether - laws of physics don't allow it unfortunately.
Yes - you can go sideways if you want to, but it requires very slow in and sideways out T-junctions are best if you're into that sort of thing....even better if you can get into 2nd before turning
The later STi's (anyone know about the early ones?) have a 20kg/cm viscous centre, euro models have a 12kg/cm. The higher preload should (I don't really know this, just assume) mean less of a difference in axle speed b4 the diff controls it....basically, I want it to work 'quicker' to keep axle speeds the same. I want to keep exits more neutral or rear biased on track when I've gone into the corner too fast (ie; modify the car to correct user error!).
A few people have suggested an uprated centre diff with the Quaife front may not be ideal on road, unless they're gravel Mark's news means it's relatively simple to swap.....wanna' sell your STi centre?
Richard
I don't know how a torsen front compares to a viscous one - all euro (and most STi's) have open front diffs. I would imagine the torsen reacts much quicker because it's geared.
On unknown roads it's great, allowing throttle to be used to tighten the line in most cases when required. On track I initially found my entry speed had to be perfect - too fast entry would mean throttle at the apex just caused more front drift (already lost grip due to entry speed). I've improved this via other suspension/geometry mods, but it can't be removed altogether - laws of physics don't allow it unfortunately.
Yes - you can go sideways if you want to, but it requires very slow in and sideways out T-junctions are best if you're into that sort of thing....even better if you can get into 2nd before turning
The later STi's (anyone know about the early ones?) have a 20kg/cm viscous centre, euro models have a 12kg/cm. The higher preload should (I don't really know this, just assume) mean less of a difference in axle speed b4 the diff controls it....basically, I want it to work 'quicker' to keep axle speeds the same. I want to keep exits more neutral or rear biased on track when I've gone into the corner too fast (ie; modify the car to correct user error!).
A few people have suggested an uprated centre diff with the Quaife front may not be ideal on road, unless they're gravel Mark's news means it's relatively simple to swap.....wanna' sell your STi centre?
Richard
Trending Topics
#8
AFAIK if you change the centre with an uprated STI unit you get more throttle understeer that isn't good which ever way you look at it, except you have major changes in suspension and geometry.
Quaife suggests first the rear and after that front etc if this make sense.
JIM
Quaife suggests first the rear and after that front etc if this make sense.
JIM
#9
Scooby Senior
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Zurich, Switzerland
Posts: 3,105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Don't remember reading the 'major' bit at MRT Certainly, depending on driving style, even changing the front can lead to more understeer (once both tyres have lost grip, throttle just spins them both more).
Also don't really understand the logic of changing the rear (already a viscous lsd) before the front. It would be nice to have, but at 500 quid a bit expensive! I'll start at the centre and work my way back
Mark at Lateral is able to supply non-Quaife torsen style diffs - if you're in the market for one drop him an email.
Richard
Also don't really understand the logic of changing the rear (already a viscous lsd) before the front. It would be nice to have, but at 500 quid a bit expensive! I'll start at the centre and work my way back
Mark at Lateral is able to supply non-Quaife torsen style diffs - if you're in the market for one drop him an email.
Richard
#10
So Dowser, I do not understand.
You have one Quaife LSD fitted in front. What are in road the really changes??
You are telling me that a MY00 have a viscouse rear diferential and if it have a center 12kg/m 50/50% of torque if I understand this right, whit a coil-over suspension, new setup geometry (ex: prodrive setup), sway bars, tower bars, etc and whit a 320hp (more or less) I just need to fit a Quaife two way front LSD or I am rong, because then I have a rail corner front and then I will have a spining rear??????
I would like to fit this part or parts (front or front and rear LSD) to have my MY00 corner in "road rails".
Thanks.
You have one Quaife LSD fitted in front. What are in road the really changes??
You are telling me that a MY00 have a viscouse rear diferential and if it have a center 12kg/m 50/50% of torque if I understand this right, whit a coil-over suspension, new setup geometry (ex: prodrive setup), sway bars, tower bars, etc and whit a 320hp (more or less) I just need to fit a Quaife two way front LSD or I am rong, because then I have a rail corner front and then I will have a spining rear??????
I would like to fit this part or parts (front or front and rear LSD) to have my MY00 corner in "road rails".
Thanks.
#11
I've just installed a newly sorted tranny with the Laterla non-quaife torsen diff.
Only problem is that the same day I got the car out...the skies opened up (it started snowing), and I haven't gotten around to sort the studded Hakka's.
The car feels alot more different though, front end pulls completely differently, and it feels more prone to tail out on throttle.
I can't wait to get the proper wheels on it...or to go on track next year...mmm...
/J
Only problem is that the same day I got the car out...the skies opened up (it started snowing), and I haven't gotten around to sort the studded Hakka's.
The car feels alot more different though, front end pulls completely differently, and it feels more prone to tail out on throttle.
I can't wait to get the proper wheels on it...or to go on track next year...mmm...
/J
#13
Scooby Senior
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Zurich, Switzerland
Posts: 3,105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Scoobywhite - to corner on rails, buy slicks You're basically asking a thing with (quite a lot of) mass to change direction at high speed using 4 small rubber contact patches.
Everything's a compromise - really hard suspension/slicks on track means you can corner on rails. Same set-up on a wet and bumpy b-road means disaster. There's no real right or wrong, just preferences and compromises. I like the front diff, but some may hate it. With my driving style I could exit my test U-bend corner 10-15% faster in the wet with the diff.
hrubago - looks like J will beat me to the snow test
Richard
Everything's a compromise - really hard suspension/slicks on track means you can corner on rails. Same set-up on a wet and bumpy b-road means disaster. There's no real right or wrong, just preferences and compromises. I like the front diff, but some may hate it. With my driving style I could exit my test U-bend corner 10-15% faster in the wet with the diff.
hrubago - looks like J will beat me to the snow test
Richard
#14
Yes. I did many winter test against EVO6 on the snow. Evo turns better and reacting soon. :-( Maybe the front LSD is the key.
BTW my evo friend wants to invite (Haugland or Kankkunen) to Czech republic for driving lesson on the snow for us :-) We will divide expenses into 5 peoples / students.
BTW my evo friend wants to invite (Haugland or Kankkunen) to Czech republic for driving lesson on the snow for us :-) We will divide expenses into 5 peoples / students.
#16
All together :-)
Front: better turn in under throttle
Central: quickier distribution of torque (front-rear)
Rear: Tendency to rear slide when inner wheel spinned
Sorry for my english. Do you understand?
Front: better turn in under throttle
Central: quickier distribution of torque (front-rear)
Rear: Tendency to rear slide when inner wheel spinned
Sorry for my english. Do you understand?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
38
17 July 2016 10:43 PM