has anyone else got a intermittent knocking noise prob caused by cast pipe that runs down by the side of the engine..tried most things to stop it banging is this normal as gap is very tight

 

OMG - i am suffering this problem big time. Its the bolt from the bracket to the cast pipe.

Basically the pipe that goes from the turbo to the cast pipe is quite long and unsupported, engine movement = movement in pipe, if this bolt is slack then the cast pipe knocks on the engine or the beam it sits over.

to test it just go and gently lift the turbo to cast pipe hosing and lower it, you will find it knocks.

Re tapped mine about 4 times now, progressively larger. The metal is too soft for the size of pitch thread, so it just strips the thread inside the cast pipe, and thats by hand

Jamie is speaking with aps at the moment about this for me.

My cure, unless they can cure it, is the next time i am at David Wallis' i am going to get him to weld the bugger to the bracket.

 

Gents this is the "famous" "APS knock" ... the cure is to remove the front engine mount knuts on each side, jack up the engine to clear the cross beam and then move it over 10mm or so towards the off side, re-seat the engine mounts and refit and tighten knuts, the cross member is slotted so this can be done easily.

Then there is no more knock, every kit is the same, the cast pipe is just a touch too big to clear. Move the engine over and problem solved.

 

right so im expected to move your engine and weld it

**** it Ill sort it when we fit the turbo..

David

Edited to change I to WE

[Edited by David_Wallis - 9/30/2002 11:00:48 PM]

 

Cheers Bob.

Why on earth cant they mention this with the assemblt details!

LOL David

 

might try this tonight now i have my garage finished

leave the welding for you though david

 

ffs leave the wheels on..

David

 

ROTFLMFAO

Course i will after last time!

 

bob moved the engine a bit but still getting knocking even after trying to hold in place with a tie grip..where does it hit is it on the engine or the crossmember..am now thinking of routing pipe across top of engine like hks in polished alloy..paul..ps will get in touch with u when my headers have been ported..also am booked to have a oil sep/catch tank done

 

NIJA, just check its not the bolt from the bracket attached to the ARB bracket.

I will not be doing mine tonight as her in doors as gone out in it

 

You need to move it alot ... it clouts the exhaust header heat shield but can also catch on the cross member if the retaining bolt is not tight, you may also need to bend the bracket a bit to ensure you get maximum clearance.

have a look and you will probably notice all the paint has dissapeared where the pipe "indents" close to the heat shield.

 

Mine has started at it too.

 

Yup its very common, sort the engine etc and it will be fine, had mine on for a year with no problems after the initial sort out.

 

aps must have really done the development in their tea break..not what i would expect from a (renowned tuning co).what with the cold air kit being unusable withouth a remap as well..i think i should have gone for hks

 

Hmmmm........

......well last night after a couple of beers David set about welding my cast pipe to the bracket and then applying serious amounts of cable ties around that area.

Result no knocking in 100 miles, 20 driving through town where it did it regularly. Fingers crossed. We will move the engine over when the turbo goes on.

What i do not understand, and Jamie if you are listening, is why this is not mentioned in the instructions?

Jamie (this is not a dig, merely advice) if you save a little instruction sheet on word and then print it off and put it in the box with the kit. Then people should not have to prat around with the kit AFTER they have fitted it.

Steven