For your viewing pleasure......

Standard & modified inlet:



Steel Crank:



Closed Deck block:



Open Deck block:



Rods:



More Rods:



Pistons - early crap/late crap/expensive, ceramic coated crown, thermal barriered with teflon coated skirts:



Cheers,

Steve

 

Presume this is your new motor in the making then Steve ?

Ray

 

Presume this is your new motor in the making then Steve ?

Ray

 

My new motor is in the making with some of them bits mate, some more pics to follow, bit of balancing, TD05 straight inlet, isolater plates.

 

Nice photos

What are the uprated rods? Much weight difference?

And what's the make of piston?

Thanks
Richard

 

The rods are Arrow mate, thay are a lighter rod best known as a H section rod. Pistons are of a unknown source but i think thay are cosworth.
steve.

 

By memery about 80 grams per rod if you want the exact wieght let me know.

 

modified exhaust


modified exhaust


std exhaust


std exhaust


sdt close up



modified close up


cheers steve.

 

Is it a std steel crank, or uprated one?? Where did you get the rods from, and how much ( if you dont mind.. )
And pics of my DIY modified heads, less a bit of polishing. Actually quite rough, truth be told.




Should have took more pics Still didnt attempt to modify anywhere near as much as you SMG, I mainly opened out the throats to meet the valve seat, and smoothed any sharp edges, opening out to near the gasket line on the exhaust.

 

Rods are arrow mate about £160 £180 each plus vat, but going to try some carrillo items should work out a lot cheaper, still a great rod. Nice work round the valve seat youve done, with some cams that will work well.
steve.

 

Crank is uprated mate, had another steel crank made nicer and lighter with gallary plug grub screws for cleaning EN40B grade T hardening worked out cheap ill put a pic up soon.
steve.

 

So if you got a crank made, then you should be able to get a stroked crank made also?? Then all thats needed is a suitable set of rods, for a locally supplied 2.2 stroker kit??
Sound like a possibility?

 

No. In fact, H-section connecting rods are HEAVIER than straight cut rods. That is pretty obvious, really, since there is more material on them.

Obviously, Arrow rods being of a lighter metal mix, will be lighter than the OEM rods, even if these latter are straight cut.

Probably more like 380 grams!

 

Claudius,

doesn't seem obvious to me mate - if I take a square and an H of similar cross-section the H will have less material - doh!


If anyone is looking for rods it might worth a chat with Mark - he posts on here as R19KET as he can get some interesting gear. Particularly lovely pistons!

Trout

 

Trout,

you have to think of the H section as being just like the straight cut but with added material on the sides, ie. the middle bar of the H is as big as the whole of the straight cut section, then add the rest of the H

 

In that case I agree - but is this how the rods are designed? I picked up some rods recently that were solid - but were incredibly light - the pins were extremely light as well I only wish they were in my engine!

Trout

 

A stroked crank would not be a problem, but bare in mind a long stroke engine will behave differant to a short stroke larger bore engine 97mm, also by lenghening the stroke you lesson the material shared by the main and B/end. Rods mate differant horses for differant courses, the reason that i said by memery is becouse
we will have up to 10 or more engines on the go at one time, each having rods and pistons etc balanced and thats a lot of differant wieghts ranging from 2cvs to drag bikes and cars, i wieghed them about 2 months ago mate hence saying (if you want exact wieght) let me Know and i would of checked my notes. I take the way you wrote your post as if to say we are full of **** you are more than welcome to come and check out the workshop mate and i would hope you will agree that are standards and workmanship are of the highest standards.
sorry bit over the top steve.

 

Here's a pic of the other steel crank SMG was referring to earlier in the post, this is being used in my 2.2 engine build - nice bit of kit

 

I'm sorry you took it like that, Steve, that was not the intention! In no way did I mean to criticise your worshop, hell I didnt even know you had one! I understand all those different cars, engine parts etc confused you, no worries

Thank you for the invitation I'm sure your workshop's nice. If I get the opportunity, I'll come and take a look. Where are you located?

 

Claudius sorry mate had a bit of a go there, workshop is in windlesham rd chobham surrey if your in the area pop in for a coffee and il show you round.
steve.

 

Crank etc looks good.... I'll have 2 please

 

Only if I can have the rods

 

Steve,

"also by lenghening the stroke you lesson the material shared by the main and B/end."

Sorry, but can you explain this.

The crank looks like it may be from Farndon Engineering ?

Got one myself, but had NIGHTMARES with the tollerances, they were all over the place. I had to send it back for re-machining, because they were out by .6mm (yes, .6mm) on one spec'.

Then, even though they supplied the rods too, I had to use under size bigend bearings, because I didn't fancy running 3 thou clearance on the big ends !!!!

If it is from Farndon, I hope they've sorted their quality control out. Worst of all, they didn't accept any responsibility for the tollerances being out !!!!

That said, it's seems to be pretty strong

Mark.

 

On second thoughts, I wont have 2 then. Id like to actually have an engine that drove before the big ends were knackered, not one that isnt even built yet.

 

Mark not a Farndon thank god, .6mm thats shocking. I have had problems with journals being .038mm oversize after heat treatment, on these cranks we sent the crank of for heat treatment before the finish grind end result being spot on journal sizes and the hardening is still .5mm deep min. What i mean about shared B/e and main material is if you look at the crank you see where the B/E sits next to the main, well that piece of material is the weak link
so by lenghening the stroke you reduce that material as you have offset the B/E further away from the main to gain the longer stroke. The bigger the radious at the edge of the journal the stronger it will be but this is restricted by the width of the bearing if you look at a most std cranks you will see almost a 180 degree rad there which is even better still. But all said its a very short stoke anyway and would expect no probs.
Hope that makes some sence.
Hows that gearbox fearin up still in one piece
Steve.

 

OK, prices for a 2.2 crank and rods then???

 

Steve,

Gearbox is great......but don't talk to me about crown wheels, and pinions !!!!!

Just got the report back on my rear set (was making a HORRIBLE noise after my first launch at Elvington) and I'm being told that it's due to the power of my engine "straightening out the pinion teeth" !!!!! causing excessive tollerance between the CW/P...

Hmmmmm, I'm using 3.9's, and have been told that they are nigh on indestructable, by another respected gearbox builder.

I'm not convinced that my read diff' was correctly shimmed in the first place, so will be getting the originals (lasted 400 miles, + 1 launch, £500 'ish) and the rebuilt one checked out, before it goes back in.

If this one lets go, I'm bug*ered what I'll do next

Mark.

 

easy... front wheel drive..

LMFAO.

David

 

Well hope you get it sorted mark, as i will be in the same boat, but i suspect your suspisoins are right. The 2.2 that i am doing is std stroke 75mm and 97mm bore, but can get stroker cranks made all the same price £1330 inclusive of vat, i have no dout that these cranks are up to the job and have checked them for journal size run out and balance, but i will not sell any until i have put one through the paces, which should not be to long now.
Steve.

 

Straightening out the teeth???? Never heard that one before. Ive never seen a hardened gear steel bend. Its far too brittle, it just breaks.
Strange too, because just before Elvington, we had put a P1 box and diff into the legacy, and after only 100 miles, the rear diff **** itself too. Obviously it was second hand, but was a genuine low milage unit. Had to get it rebuilt with a new CWP, only got the car going again on sat morning at 2 am.
Is it possible that oil could make a difference to the reliability of them? The guy who rebuilt it said to use Shell SL ( prodrive told him?? ) gear oil.
Are you using the R-160, or bigger R-180 diff? Perhaps the bigger one may be stonger if you can get a CWP to suit.