ScoobyJawa

Got the heatshild off and loosened the nut on the wastegate end of the rod, how the hell do I turn the rod as it just won't budge.

Any tips? Need to sort ASAP

john banks

There is a 10mm locking nut and a circlip to remove (don't lose it).

ScoobyJawa

thanks john - didn't see that little circlip all done now - time to test.........

ScoobyJawa

HOLY FLIPPING CRAP

Thats more like it!!!!! Feels like a TEK car now. Was struggling to hit 1.2kgcm for a peak before (was getting 1.15) and now its hold 1.2 or just over which is just over 17Psi.

Thats much more like it - car is absolutely flying now!!! Certainly done the trick!!

A did 1 turn. Thanks John for the help!! Happy now I'm getting the boost target

[Edited by ScoobyJawa - 7/24/2002 8:41:20 PM]

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

Which way do you turn it to up the boost, clockwise or anticlockwise??

i wonder if this could be my problem, does it improve spool up??

john banks

I suggest you take it back half a turn as in the cold when you thrash it it will overboost.

Or buy a big turbo and turn it up some more

john banks

You shorten the rod - obvious when you see it - if I said anti/clockwise you would ask viewed from which end

ScoobyJawa

Just had a long blast in the cool night air - its about 10oC at the max at the moment and not a hint of any probs.. Might see how I get on (only coz I've put it all back together now and I'm a lazy sod ) The peak is now just under 1.3 kg/cm and holding 1.2(17psi) or just over in 5th which is what its mapped for (its a custom TEK2).

Boost certainly seems to come on faster and quicker, particularly noticable in 3rd(feels though - wasn't watching the gauge to know for sure - too busy watching the road and the scenery passing by!!!)

As for turning it, you turn the end piece which connects to the wastegate, rather than the rod, and looking from the front you would be turning it anti-clockwise - though as John says, it becomes obvious when you see it........

Well happy

john banks

I would suggest you turn it back half a turn It will overboost and fluctuate sooner or later and you are probably spiking 1 PSI above your target in the summer. Or you could wait and see, but boost spikes are notorious for causing detonation, however, the map is conservative enough that you would probably just lose out on timing. The two hot spots for detonation are just as the boost is spiking and from about 5000-5500 RPM.

[Edited by john banks - 7/24/2002 11:25:14 PM]

ScoobyJawa

Don't you ever sleep John

I think I'll wait and see I'll wait for a nice cold night and get it on delta dash again and see whats what. When the map was originally done and tested there was not the slightest sign of knock, as you know/say the PE TEK's tend to be reasonably safe/conservative too....
Its essentially a TEK2 with a 1 PSi higher boost target and the advance/timing etc adjusted to suit.......

When you say spike do you mean while its in the middle of boosting or on spool up where it overshoots and then settles? At the moment it just shoots up to where it holds and stays there until it tapers off at about 5.5-6k revs.......

I'll keep a close eye on the gauge though, and if it all goes wrong I've only got myself to blame and you can say I told you so

ChrisG

Do all cars (read mine!) benefit from having the actuator adjusted?

ScoobyJawa

Went out with delta dash again this evening. Fairly coolish still.

Boost gone up from 14.5 to 17 ish Hit 17.4 at one point but mainly averaged around 16.8 Not a sign of overboost and hardly any knock whatsoever

Just have to see what its like when its cooler now........

Stephen Cole

Does anyone know exactly (or approximately) how much travel the actuator has
ie from wastegate closed to fully open

Stephen

Stephen Cole

How easy was the turbo heat shiled to remove ?
Do you have an early MY with 'sloping' intercooler and a turbo heat shield with a duct from the scoop ?
(Not sure what the later MY's are like)

Is it just the 3 obvious bolts
incl slightlt difficult to reach one down by the gearbox dipstick

Thanks

john banks

Chris your car runs nicely as it is - I mapped it for your present actuator setup, and if you tighten it it could eat into the margin I left for overboost in the cold weather.

I am conservative with the boost, but that way the cars hold together The little TD04L cannot safely do much more.

ScoobyJawa

Steve,

Not sure - mines a MY99, one left side (looking from from), one middle top, one left side (under intercooler) and I think ones supposed to be in the back but mine hasn't got it since fitting the DP.

Stephen Cole

Err, where are these adjustment nuts ?
I assumed they were at the end of the rod by the wastegate lever
But the turbo picture at
http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/thread.asp?threadid=115731
shows no adjsutment at that end

Can't be at the 'diaphram' end from what I can see

Stephen
Confused now
(but haven't taken the turbo heat shield off yet to see properly ...)

ChrisG

Thanks fr the reply John, I am quite happy the way things are just now right enough

ozzy

Stephen,

The bit you need to adjust is highlighted below



When the pressure hits 8psi, it's enough to start pushing the rod backwards (towards the bulkhead). This turns the little lever it's attached to and opens the wastegate (releasing pressure).

If you shorten the rod, it will take more pressure to start moving the rod, therefore increasing the amount of boost before the wastegate opens.

Stefan

Brun

So how much should i turn it? or is it best to leave well alone? and stick to what i know. i've just got to find out what that is!

pob on the job

Stephen,
I know your actuator rod is different from the setup suggested by ozzy above, mine is the same. There is no locknut or adjuster as shown above. I need to adjust mine as well and it wasn't obvious to me either....I didn't have a good look and I'll be at work for the next week. I seem to remember there being a flat on the rod itself. Why?...I was thinking it might be adjustable from the actuator side.. Have you tried removing the rod at the wastegate end and turning the rod? Or indeed unbolting the actuator and turning that? My problem is slightly different in that I'm getting overboost in higher gears, so need to go the other way. If my rod can't be adjusted I was thinking of shimming out the actuator from it's mountings with washers, moving the whole lot towards the wastegate giving slight opening in the closed position hence slightly more open in the open position...I might be talking crap, but like I say, can't get to the car right now to check up on this theory I have. This won't help in your case though as you want more closed, but it's something that might spark an idea for you.

Alan

pob on the job

Any joy Stephen?

ScoobyJawa

The only reason I tightened mine is I was not getting the boost my car was mapped for. If I was getting the right boost I would have left it alone. Was previously getting 14.5PSI, but car is mapped for 17 (ie not a standard ecu), I turned it one whole turn and the boost raised from 14.5 to 16.8.)

Stephen Cole

Had a look at mine properly at the weekend
It is the same as the pictire ozzy posted, and I can see the locknut and adjustment now.
Thanks

Now just working out how to get the heatshield off (and back on again)
There's two bolts way down deep on the 'wing' side, with very little room to get to them. Can probably get them out ok, but putting them back in will be a nightmare ...
[that's about par for getting at most engine bits !]

Bob Rawle

Not all the actuators are adjustable.

Bob