DIY Cold Air Pipe......
#1
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Done the deed today - made my DIY cold air pipe for my induction kit!!! Took about 2 hours all in all - I'd already removed the resonator out of the way!
Pipe into the engine bay:
Inside the Wing:
Front View - removed the "wedge" and replaced with mesh:
Duct from the front of the engine bay for as much cool air as poss :
I put the dip in the duct coming from the front in an effort to catch a bit of spray in the wet and a couple of drain holes in the bottom.
Did the same with the cold air pipe in the wing. Comes in from the "wedge" and dips, with a couple of drain holes and then routes up to the engine bay through the hole available by removing the resonator.........
Job Done
Pipe into the engine bay:
Inside the Wing:
Front View - removed the "wedge" and replaced with mesh:
Duct from the front of the engine bay for as much cool air as poss :
I put the dip in the duct coming from the front in an effort to catch a bit of spray in the wet and a couple of drain holes in the bottom.
Did the same with the cold air pipe in the wing. Comes in from the "wedge" and dips, with a couple of drain holes and then routes up to the engine bay through the hole available by removing the resonator.........
Job Done
#2
Absolutely no offence mate - it doesn't look "tidy" compared to my APS induction kit - but I guess if it works ok then you have saved a "few" pence !!![img]http:\\www.stupidnorthernmonkey.co.uk\images\bounc e.gif[/img]
#3
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You got a pic of your APS? But it But this idea might be a good cheap alternative though. How much did it cost and where did you get the materials from?
[Edited by Katana - 7/20/2002 6:41:11 PM]
[Edited by Katana - 7/20/2002 6:41:11 PM]
#5
here's the piccies - sorry for the pants quality - took one of the DV also.
[img]http:\\www.stupidnorthernmonkey.co.uk\images\EB1.J PG[/img]
[img]http:\\www.stupidnorthernmonkey.co.uk\images\EB2.J PG[/img]
[img]http:\\www.stupidnorthernmonkey.co.uk\images\EB3.J PG[/img]
[img]http:\\www.stupidnorthernmonkey.co.uk\images\EB4.J PG[/img]
[img]http:\\www.stupidnorthernmonkey.co.uk\images\EB5.J PG[/img]
[img]http:\\www.stupidnorthernmonkey.co.uk\images\EB1.J PG[/img]
[img]http:\\www.stupidnorthernmonkey.co.uk\images\EB2.J PG[/img]
[img]http:\\www.stupidnorthernmonkey.co.uk\images\EB3.J PG[/img]
[img]http:\\www.stupidnorthernmonkey.co.uk\images\EB4.J PG[/img]
[img]http:\\www.stupidnorthernmonkey.co.uk\images\EB5.J PG[/img]
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#10
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Adam,
I think the APS kits is not in everyone's price range for *just* an air inductor.
I had the APS gear on a previous car (MY99), it worked fine, until I returned it to standard (and removed the Link, which doesn't use the MAF) and realised it had blown up my MAF sensor!
The K&N (that ScoobyJawa has) is a solid bit of kit and has the reputation for keeping the MAF sensor in tact.
So no offense - I've used them both and I personally would not go the APS route again!
I think the APS kits is not in everyone's price range for *just* an air inductor.
I had the APS gear on a previous car (MY99), it worked fine, until I returned it to standard (and removed the Link, which doesn't use the MAF) and realised it had blown up my MAF sensor!
The K&N (that ScoobyJawa has) is a solid bit of kit and has the reputation for keeping the MAF sensor in tact.
So no offense - I've used them both and I personally would not go the APS route again!
#11
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Adamm - Nope - it probably doesn't look too tidy No offence taken at all mate!!!!!!
I was gonna get the APS kit, then read a few bad things on it, eg a post recently about it leaning the car out VERY badly on a TEK2 which mine has and a TEK2 is mapped for induction Also got a good deal on the K&N - 40 quid,(cheers Plantie again ) and its reputation for being one of the safest helped
The materials - the main cold air piping was 11.99 (a bit expensive I think, maybe elsewhere its cheaper) from halfords - its manufactured by Green as it was 80mm against the other biggest halfords sold which was 60mm (I used this for the front bay induction as seen in the pictures) and that cost 4.50 ish. From a previous post, as per Gavin's (I think) recommendation I got a bass tube port for the start of the cold air pipe, by the "wedge". That cost 2.50 from maplin. I duck taped the port and piping together and job done. OK its not the tidiest of jobs but seems to work well. (Had a little play with a 911 (996) Carrera 4S on my way home (as per Other Marques thread) and can still hold my head up high) All in (including the K&N) it cost less than 60 quid - pretty good going I think!!, against the APS job at well over 200, I know which I'd rather do!!!
So if you already have the induction, you're looking at less than 20 quid to do this. A used MRT cold air pipe was recently for sale on this BBS for 60+ quid (this weighs in at a third of the cost ) New its 100+
Tarty - indeed it is done - thanks for all your advice mate, I really appreciate it, hope to see you soon as its been a fair while
I was gonna get the APS kit, then read a few bad things on it, eg a post recently about it leaning the car out VERY badly on a TEK2 which mine has and a TEK2 is mapped for induction Also got a good deal on the K&N - 40 quid,(cheers Plantie again ) and its reputation for being one of the safest helped
The materials - the main cold air piping was 11.99 (a bit expensive I think, maybe elsewhere its cheaper) from halfords - its manufactured by Green as it was 80mm against the other biggest halfords sold which was 60mm (I used this for the front bay induction as seen in the pictures) and that cost 4.50 ish. From a previous post, as per Gavin's (I think) recommendation I got a bass tube port for the start of the cold air pipe, by the "wedge". That cost 2.50 from maplin. I duck taped the port and piping together and job done. OK its not the tidiest of jobs but seems to work well. (Had a little play with a 911 (996) Carrera 4S on my way home (as per Other Marques thread) and can still hold my head up high) All in (including the K&N) it cost less than 60 quid - pretty good going I think!!, against the APS job at well over 200, I know which I'd rather do!!!
So if you already have the induction, you're looking at less than 20 quid to do this. A used MRT cold air pipe was recently for sale on this BBS for 60+ quid (this weighs in at a third of the cost ) New its 100+
Tarty - indeed it is done - thanks for all your advice mate, I really appreciate it, hope to see you soon as its been a fair while
#13
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And finally The brown stuff around the end of the K&N is draught excluder Used to stop the metal end piece knocking on the wing
Time for bed now!!!!
Time for bed now!!!!
#14
Just get a decent induction kit (APEX'i,Blitz, HKS) that can withstand the air being sucked in without deforming.
Looks like all those crappy brands like J&R are just made for 1.4 Vauxhall's or Polo GTI's....
Looks like all those crappy brands like J&R are just made for 1.4 Vauxhall's or Polo GTI's....
#15
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I am all in favour of effective cold air kits and have made my own which in the end was both cheap and effective. On the present car I have an APS which consists of a K+N Filter and cast aluminium 90 deg shaped bend.Other than from vibration from poor instalation I do not see how this kit can have any effect on the MAF any more so than any other K+N Filter.
In their blurb somewhere APS state that their cold air kit should only be installed in conjunction with a re-map.
On installation I found my car had lost some of its smoothness and refinement at low revs and until 3000rpm there was less pull/urgency but as this was in advance of the fitment of a Link it was not a problem.
The very fact that a re-map is necessary/desirable indicates to me that the kit allows the engine to breathe cold air more freely.
In their blurb somewhere APS state that their cold air kit should only be installed in conjunction with a re-map.
On installation I found my car had lost some of its smoothness and refinement at low revs and until 3000rpm there was less pull/urgency but as this was in advance of the fitment of a Link it was not a problem.
The very fact that a re-map is necessary/desirable indicates to me that the kit allows the engine to breathe cold air more freely.
#16
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I'm not knocking the function of the APS gear! I'm pointing out the issues I had with it!
I was running it with an APS FMIC, a *large* turbo and a Link (mapped by BRD) The gains were amazing. I believe the filter was fitted correctly, as I have no issues with the person I used.
I was running it with an APS FMIC, a *large* turbo and a Link (mapped by BRD) The gains were amazing. I believe the filter was fitted correctly, as I have no issues with the person I used.
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I used a Rampod induction kit, MRT cold air feed pipe and an MRT induction scoop, with no MAF issues for 12 months!
I use the APS for 4-5 months with the Link, and on taking everything back to standard I find the MAF has gone.
(I've heard this happen to a few Link cars, once the standard ECU is back in place)
I use the APS for 4-5 months with the Link, and on taking everything back to standard I find the MAF has gone.
(I've heard this happen to a few Link cars, once the standard ECU is back in place)
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"Get a decent induction kit like APEXI Blitz, HKS"
Hmmmm - do not know much about the APEXi but the Blitz and HKS items are well know for killing MAF's on an MY99 car so I'd hardly call them decent - just selling on their name, the K&N is the best reported induction on MY99+ at not damaging the MAF so I'd call that pretty decent. Its not a case of the more expensive the better...............
Hmmmm - do not know much about the APEXi but the Blitz and HKS items are well know for killing MAF's on an MY99 car so I'd hardly call them decent - just selling on their name, the K&N is the best reported induction on MY99+ at not damaging the MAF so I'd call that pretty decent. Its not a case of the more expensive the better...............
#19
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Interesting, I've just done a similar thing to mine. I bought said MRT pipe (cheers Bito). Ok it was a little more expensive but the pipe is very robust and has a large drain hole in it which saved me some hassle.
The main advantage for me is that it looks tidier in the engine bay and sits at a good angle for my induction kit, which incidently points forwards, so when you look under the bonnet there's not much diference. If I'd thought about it before the pipe came up for sale on here, then maybe I would have gone the same route. I never realise that I want to do stuff to the car until someone is selling a bit in the For Sale section.
Also as mine is a 97MY I don't have wedges, I had a black thing which directs air to the brakes which it still will, but in not as neat route.
Anyway, I'm happy with it and well chuffed that I managed to sort it without any serious cutting / mods to stuff that can't be undone at a later date.
Steve
The main advantage for me is that it looks tidier in the engine bay and sits at a good angle for my induction kit, which incidently points forwards, so when you look under the bonnet there's not much diference. If I'd thought about it before the pipe came up for sale on here, then maybe I would have gone the same route. I never realise that I want to do stuff to the car until someone is selling a bit in the For Sale section.
Also as mine is a 97MY I don't have wedges, I had a black thing which directs air to the brakes which it still will, but in not as neat route.
Anyway, I'm happy with it and well chuffed that I managed to sort it without any serious cutting / mods to stuff that can't be undone at a later date.
Steve
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I think some of the Japanese tuning stuff is brilliant, others are not so brilliant.
Blitz filter known to fail MY99/00 MAF sensors due to the holes in the metal mesh being too big and not offering good filtration.
HKS filter Power Flow also known to fail MAF sensors, either due to filtration (poor servicing) or vibrations. Racing Suction more prone to vibrations than the Power Flow kit!
Apexi (no real world examples) only read tests and they seem offer poorer filtration than HKS & K&N for example.
[Edited by Tarty! - 7/21/2002 5:22:36 PM]
Blitz filter known to fail MY99/00 MAF sensors due to the holes in the metal mesh being too big and not offering good filtration.
HKS filter Power Flow also known to fail MAF sensors, either due to filtration (poor servicing) or vibrations. Racing Suction more prone to vibrations than the Power Flow kit!
Apexi (no real world examples) only read tests and they seem offer poorer filtration than HKS & K&N for example.
[Edited by Tarty! - 7/21/2002 5:22:36 PM]
#22
Well, sounds good, I just know one thing I had a J&R which is the same as a K&N which resulted in MAF failures shortly after fitting.
First no brackets come with these (same as the K&N on the picture) and they all seem to deform....
I don't know where you get your information from, but APEX'i offers the BEST filtration of ALL makes at the best price.
Anyway, would be interested to see the test of the poor filtration capabilities of the APEX'i, if you have a link or can scan me the page, I would be very thankful.
First no brackets come with these (same as the K&N on the picture) and they all seem to deform....
I don't know where you get your information from, but APEX'i offers the BEST filtration of ALL makes at the best price.
Anyway, would be interested to see the test of the poor filtration capabilities of the APEX'i, if you have a link or can scan me the page, I would be very thankful.
#23
http://www.gtrowner.com/induction.html
Yup Apexi are supposed to filter the best, and I'm quite happy with mine.
[Edited by memski - 7/21/2002 8:20:57 PM]
Yup Apexi are supposed to filter the best, and I'm quite happy with mine.
[Edited by memski - 7/21/2002 8:20:57 PM]
#24
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My K&N came with a support bracket which you attach to the coolant reservoir, the resulting setup hardly moves at all........
You can see the bracket in the picture:
You can see the bracket in the picture:
#25
Well, then at least they made some improvements, my J&R didn't come with any bracket at all.
Anyway bracket or not, the filter looks too ugly and dirty (in my opinion) and seems to deform, just as my J&R did, where as the APEXí stays in shape no deforming at all.
Good that ends the discussion, anyway your pipe idea is great I have the same setup (alu pipe taking the air from the small bits below the indicators) although my filter is sitting in a carbon box to retain the heat, I posted some pictures here but my thread dissappeared into the depths of Scoobynet very soon...
Anyway bracket or not, the filter looks too ugly and dirty (in my opinion) and seems to deform, just as my J&R did, where as the APEXí stays in shape no deforming at all.
Good that ends the discussion, anyway your pipe idea is great I have the same setup (alu pipe taking the air from the small bits below the indicators) although my filter is sitting in a carbon box to retain the heat, I posted some pictures here but my thread dissappeared into the depths of Scoobynet very soon...
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Case closed (even with my dirty filter ).
Yeah - I looked into boxing it but those boxes cost a packet!! Was looking to get some sheet stainless or alu and knock up a heatshield myself - watch this space!!!
Yeah - I looked into boxing it but those boxes cost a packet!! Was looking to get some sheet stainless or alu and knock up a heatshield myself - watch this space!!!
#27
If you are skilled at DIY things you can do that, if not you can get a hold of the same Carbon box as I have, available at
avo turbo world, I think the address is www.avoturbo.com.
This box is the best priced I saw until now, unfortunately only availabe from Japan or Australia, so the shipping cost would be rather high... in my case I was the shipping service myself....
If you need pics of the box, let me know
avo turbo world, I think the address is www.avoturbo.com.
This box is the best priced I saw until now, unfortunately only availabe from Japan or Australia, so the shipping cost would be rather high... in my case I was the shipping service myself....
If you need pics of the box, let me know
#29
Here are the pics, however, your bracket attaches to the cooling reservoir? Why that? I mean there are surely better places than that. I'm not sure but doesn't the cooling reservoir move when you start the engine or accelerate? Could be that I'm wrong but better check....
As for my pics, they speak for themselves, brackets fit to the inner wing the other goes down to the chassis, fits perfectly into existing holes. The other pic is with the lid securely closed.
FYI, the price of the box was 38000 yen which is about 300 Euro.
Hope it helps.....
As for my pics, they speak for themselves, brackets fit to the inner wing the other goes down to the chassis, fits perfectly into existing holes. The other pic is with the lid securely closed.
FYI, the price of the box was 38000 yen which is about 300 Euro.
Hope it helps.....
#30
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Great pics - thanks
AFAIK the whole Air filter assembly moves when you start the car or rev - as the pipes don't have flex like the OEM setup.... It all moves as one............
AFAIK the whole Air filter assembly moves when you start the car or rev - as the pipes don't have flex like the OEM setup.... It all moves as one............