Menzerna Intesive polish-First time
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Menzerna Intesive polish-First time
Yes my first experience with the Menzerna Intensive polish, and i will be as bold to say it will be the last.
I brought the Polish along with a Lake country german App Pad, to get my some swirles out. But the stuff is useless, and is rubbish. I had a look at the guide for using it by Polished bliss, when out cleaned my car today and tried it. I started with the bonnet first, couple of dabs of MIP on the pad and tried to work it in for a good 5mins buffed off and still swirl marks, The swirls weren't that bad to start with. So i thought id go over it again-still no joy. Right i thought id give it a go on the front wing and drivers door, Put the sh**e stuff on (menzerna Intensive polish), worked it in for ten minuites-still no joy with the swirles instead it left Maring marks.
So i dont think i'l use this stuff again, it actually made me not enjoy cleaning my car for the first time. I going back to my Autoglym Super res polish.
I brought the Polish along with a Lake country german App Pad, to get my some swirles out. But the stuff is useless, and is rubbish. I had a look at the guide for using it by Polished bliss, when out cleaned my car today and tried it. I started with the bonnet first, couple of dabs of MIP on the pad and tried to work it in for a good 5mins buffed off and still swirl marks, The swirls weren't that bad to start with. So i thought id go over it again-still no joy. Right i thought id give it a go on the front wing and drivers door, Put the sh**e stuff on (menzerna Intensive polish), worked it in for ten minuites-still no joy with the swirles instead it left Maring marks.
So i dont think i'l use this stuff again, it actually made me not enjoy cleaning my car for the first time. I going back to my Autoglym Super res polish.
Last edited by Impreza Steve; 16 February 2008 at 08:51 PM.
#2
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It worked for me, was hard work mind....
Autoglym should work as well but you will find it masks more of the swirls with its natural filler instead of getting rid of them.
Autoglym should work as well but you will find it masks more of the swirls with its natural filler instead of getting rid of them.
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It just wouldnt work i tried and tried, i feel as if my arm in still hanging off one of the panels.
Yeah my autoglym is Miles easier to use. I cant understand why it wouldnt work.
Yeah my autoglym is Miles easier to use. I cant understand why it wouldnt work.
#5
As said - autoglym SRP doesn't remove the swirls, which is hard work - it just shoves a load of filler in to hide them, which is far easier.
If it makes you feel any better though - I'm not finding the Intensive polish that easy to use even with a machine- the 106FA is a dream in comparison.
If it makes you feel any better though - I'm not finding the Intensive polish that easy to use even with a machine- the 106FA is a dream in comparison.
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I must not be doing it right then, When i tried it dotted four spot of Polish on the Pad and dabbed it around spreading it alittle. I then started working it in in straight lines, really giving it some beans aswell for a good 4-5mins. it did go powdery aswell.
Is this right?
Is this right?
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this polish is designed for machine use, ie rotary and pc. You will get very limited results by hand as it will take a great deal of elbow grease to break the polish down.
Think about a rotary doing 1500-2000 rpm, or a hand doing the equivelant of 50 rpm. Also super resin is not a true poilsh so to speak, it is not designed to correct defects, it only masks by filling.
Hope this helps your frustration, it took me a whole day with a rotary to correct my car, however the results were outstanding using 106fa.
Think about a rotary doing 1500-2000 rpm, or a hand doing the equivelant of 50 rpm. Also super resin is not a true poilsh so to speak, it is not designed to correct defects, it only masks by filling.
Hope this helps your frustration, it took me a whole day with a rotary to correct my car, however the results were outstanding using 106fa.
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Am i using it wrong thought, or just because im not using a machine means im doing it wrong. I did give it my best shot, i mean i didnt just look at it and then say ow it doesnt work. i tried doing it in about a 12inch square area and work it in a hard as i could untill my arm was hanging on by treads
#13
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If it doesn't work for you then flog it and use something that you feel happy with.
Not all paint is the same, if you have achieved a desired effect with AG SRP then go with it, sealed with a nice wax it should be fine.
Not all paint is the same, if you have achieved a desired effect with AG SRP then go with it, sealed with a nice wax it should be fine.
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Couple of things need immediate clearing up: (1) Steve, your method seems spot on, so something else must be up (I'll come back to this below); (2) Menzerna Intensive Polish is not for machine only use - in fact, this version is better used by hand as the abrasives in it are very fragile. My guess is that people are confusing it with RD3.02, which is also termed Intensive Polish, and is indeed only for machine use. See the difference on these links...
Intensive Polish - Menzerna Intensive Polish - Menzerna Car Care and Detailing Products
RD3.02 (also Intensive Polish) - Menzerna RD3.02 - Menzerna Car Care and Detailing Products
Okay, coming back to Steve's problems. Two things could be a play here, assuming your method is correct (and from what you have described it is). The first problem could be that you happen to have unusually hard factory paint - I have found this on several Scoobies in the past, including the P1 shown in our portfolio on our site that needed a much harder session than normal with more aggressive polishes in order to be fully corrected. In most cases Scooby paint can be corrected to a reasonable standard (70-80%) with Intensive Polish, so I don't agree that it is a useless product. Indeed, it has proven itself time and time again, but there are always exceptions to general rules of thumb, and in this case you clearly have harder than usual paint. The second factor could be resprayed panels, as bodyshop resprays are almost always rock hard compared to factory paint jobs. Does your car have all original paint, or are the panels you were working on previously in for paintwork at a bodyshop? Whatever is the case, the bottom line is that you clearly have unusually hard paint, and the only way to correct it is going to be using a machine (and from the sounds of it a rotary polisher might be the order of the day if Intensive Polish by hand didn't improve the swirls in the slightest). Finally, SRP is easy to use, but it is effectively just a glaze, and is hiding the defects rather than correcting them, as mentioned above.
Intensive Polish - Menzerna Intensive Polish - Menzerna Car Care and Detailing Products
RD3.02 (also Intensive Polish) - Menzerna RD3.02 - Menzerna Car Care and Detailing Products
Okay, coming back to Steve's problems. Two things could be a play here, assuming your method is correct (and from what you have described it is). The first problem could be that you happen to have unusually hard factory paint - I have found this on several Scoobies in the past, including the P1 shown in our portfolio on our site that needed a much harder session than normal with more aggressive polishes in order to be fully corrected. In most cases Scooby paint can be corrected to a reasonable standard (70-80%) with Intensive Polish, so I don't agree that it is a useless product. Indeed, it has proven itself time and time again, but there are always exceptions to general rules of thumb, and in this case you clearly have harder than usual paint. The second factor could be resprayed panels, as bodyshop resprays are almost always rock hard compared to factory paint jobs. Does your car have all original paint, or are the panels you were working on previously in for paintwork at a bodyshop? Whatever is the case, the bottom line is that you clearly have unusually hard paint, and the only way to correct it is going to be using a machine (and from the sounds of it a rotary polisher might be the order of the day if Intensive Polish by hand didn't improve the swirls in the slightest). Finally, SRP is easy to use, but it is effectively just a glaze, and is hiding the defects rather than correcting them, as mentioned above.
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Thanks for you replie Polished bloss, i did infact buy the polish (the hand version) Menzerna Intensive Polish - Menzerna Car Care and Detailing Products from yourselves.
Ow if you were only closer to me, i would have had my car into yourselves to get it fully detailed.
With regards to hard paint and body shop work, My car is an Impreza Sport which has got a Turbo bonnet so that maybe have been sprayed, athough i dont think it has, but the wing and door Defently havent been resprayed. So i must have harder paint.
Could you recommend anyone who does detailing in the Lincolnshire area as i really dont want to be letting myself loose with a Rotary on my car
Edit- Just to add if you need info maybe towards different products, my car is An Impreza 2000 on an X plate, with Deep mice blue Paint which i think is Both Metalic and Perlecsent
Ow if you were only closer to me, i would have had my car into yourselves to get it fully detailed.
With regards to hard paint and body shop work, My car is an Impreza Sport which has got a Turbo bonnet so that maybe have been sprayed, athough i dont think it has, but the wing and door Defently havent been resprayed. So i must have harder paint.
Could you recommend anyone who does detailing in the Lincolnshire area as i really dont want to be letting myself loose with a Rotary on my car
Edit- Just to add if you need info maybe towards different products, my car is An Impreza 2000 on an X plate, with Deep mice blue Paint which i think is Both Metalic and Perlecsent
Last edited by Impreza Steve; 18 February 2008 at 08:25 PM.
#16
So what is the main difference in using the Menzerna 3.02 / 106FA / 85RD instead of the Menzerna Power Gloss / Intensive Polish / Final Polish ? I use the first lot with a PC and seems okay, is it that second lot is easier by hand ?
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Thanks for you replie Polished bloss, i did infact buy the polish (the hand version) Menzerna Intensive Polish - Menzerna Car Care and Detailing Products from yourselves.
Ow if you were only closer to me, i would have had my car into yourselves to get it fully detailed.
With regards to hard paint and body shop work, My car is an Impreza Sport which has got a Turbo bonnet so that maybe have been sprayed, athough i dont think it has, but the wing and door Defently havent been resprayed. So i must have harder paint.
Could you recommend anyone who does detailing in the Lincolnshire area as i really dont want to be letting myself loose with a Rotary on my car
Edit- Just to add if you need info maybe towards different products, my car is An Impreza 2000 on an X plate, with Deep mice blue Paint which i think is Both Metalic and Perlecsent
Ow if you were only closer to me, i would have had my car into yourselves to get it fully detailed.
With regards to hard paint and body shop work, My car is an Impreza Sport which has got a Turbo bonnet so that maybe have been sprayed, athough i dont think it has, but the wing and door Defently havent been resprayed. So i must have harder paint.
Could you recommend anyone who does detailing in the Lincolnshire area as i really dont want to be letting myself loose with a Rotary on my car
Edit- Just to add if you need info maybe towards different products, my car is An Impreza 2000 on an X plate, with Deep mice blue Paint which i think is Both Metalic and Perlecsent
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Power Gloss, Intensive Polish and Final Polish II are the old school range of polishes for conventional clearcoats. They feature a fragile abrasive that is prone to rapid breakdown and dusting. They work well on conventional clearcoats but generate a lot of dust and don't always have the ***** to cut the hardest paints very well. Because they breakdown easily, they are ideal for softer Jap paints (i.e. Honda and Mitsubishi) by machine, and also for working by hand (using the newer polishes by hand can lead to problems as it is almost impossible to break the abrasives down properly without the help of a machine).
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Thanks PB for your advice, much appreciated
I may look into Muddy detail, see what he could do.
As for the polish..... Anyone want to buy it-Hardly used
I may look into Muddy detail, see what he could do.
As for the polish..... Anyone want to buy it-Hardly used
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I have the same car as Steve and I also have IP (hand) which I have not tried yet as I was waiting on conditions to improve. I have been thinking about getting a G220 ready for the summer,so by the sounds of it, I may have to.
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Feel free to come and give my new car a detail lol not in bad condition but needs some correction to get rid of light swirling. i think the polishers seem like a great idea and the results from them are amazing and removing them by hand sounds like alot of hard work lol.
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Ha. If I'm not too busy over the summer then I might be able to help out. No promises, though.
Polishing by hand is definitely a lot of work. You'll have to eat plenty of pasta as it's very tiring.
Polishing by hand is definitely a lot of work. You'll have to eat plenty of pasta as it's very tiring.
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Darren you'll certainly have lots of fun with it if your paints like mine, If you get some steriods and inject into the arm your going to be polishing it with then you may have a chance
Schuy, i may take you up on the detailing offer. Could come down and have a wee look at the type R whilst im there.
Schuy, i may take you up on the detailing offer. Could come down and have a wee look at the type R whilst im there.
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Looks like a G220 might be on the cards. My paint is not too bad. There are only light swirls in the paint, and only in certain areas.
My only concern about getting the G220 is what pads do I use and with what product and what technique. But I will save those questions for another day.
My only concern about getting the G220 is what pads do I use and with what product and what technique. But I will save those questions for another day.