hey guys ive just bought my self a 1997 wrx today , its been modified list to follow.

Subaru Impreza WRX 97 V4The list of Mods:
New Tyres
New Discs/Pads
Fully Rebuilt Engine Jan 2013
All gaskets/seals/belts/plugs new
Race Radiator
Front Mount Intercooler
Fully adjustable Meister R Suspension front/rear (1000 Euros)
New Sparco seats (800 Euros)
HKS SSQV BOV
HKS Induction Kit
HKS EBC
HKS Turbo Timer
Full Japspeed Turbo Back Exhaust System
New Stereo with iPod support
New Clutch
Lightweight Crank Pulley
Oil Cooler Kit
Silicon Hose Kit
All rubber hoses changed for new
Taxed and MOT’d.
At 1.0 Bar runs circa 350bhp.


^^ this is coped from the advert .

just thought idd say hi and , ask for some advice on running a rebuild engine in ,


(ill upload the photos too)


cheers

~Josh

 

The photo below is before the work was carried out i think , the front bumper is in a bit of a state at the moment

 

Hi Josh and welcome to scoobynet.

That looks very nice and I bet it's clean due to the environment that it has been living in, I'm going to stick my neck out though and say that I really doubt that it's producing 350bhp at only 1 bar of boost with no mention of a bigger turbo or ECU.

As for running it in vary the engine revs up and down the rev range up to around 3-4k and do not hammer it

 

Im jelous that you live in cyprus

But the car looks clean

 

cheers guys , about the running in is it for 500m then oil change then same again for 500m oil change and it should al be settled in?

oh and yeah i just copyed the advert mate , after its all been run in al have to get it on the dynos and remapped for the extra stuff anyhow.

cheers

 

For running in advice I'd ask the engine builder who built it because different builders recommend different periods.

 

i tried to speak to the guy who did the rebuild but there was a language barrier Sunderland accent and Cypriot doesn't mix very well , but what i managed to get out of him was semi synthetic (im sure fully synthetic is the better? ) and 10 - 50? can any one help me out with this ?

cars at 500m now so needs the oild change sooner i find out sooner i can go and get the oil , and start doing the final 500m before another oil change and then i can actually see what the car can do

all advice is appreciated

thanks

~Josh

 

You probably don't want to be running fully synthetic for the running in period, semi synthetic should do the job.

 

cheers mate yeah , ive got 10w-40w semi castrol magnetic ,

another thing , ive never done an oil change with a oil filter mounted upright , aswell as having a oil cooler kit , is it just the same as any other oil change?

and i wont be able to load the filter with oil as it would just oiyr all over the floor upon replacing , help??



cheers for your help

 

Without wanting to start another massive debate on the subject what you're best off doing when changing oil on a Subaru is to disconnect either the camshaft sensor (near the oil filler neck) or the crank sensor and cranking the car over until the oil light goes out. Sometimes this can take a while but it does mean that it primes the oil filter etc and it means that when you come to fire the car up there is no air in places that it shouldn't be.

Take breaks when cranking it over to avoid damaging the starter motor and you should eventually see the oil light go out. Check the oil level and top it up again and reconnect the sensor. Run the car for a few seconds before switching it off and checking the oil level yet again.

It sounds **** but it will help save your engine and nobody has ever harmed their car by doing this procedure. People have damaged their engine by not following this procedure and doing an oil change like a normal person

 

thanks mate , it does sound **** like ha , with out you putting this i would of went ahead and done it like a "normal person" hahaha

cheers for getting back so quick

 

Do what Paulo says mate, best way to get oil round an engine, isn't there a fuse on the Scoob that you can take out to stop it firing? I used to take out the EFI fuse on my MR2's to do this.

Car looks nice, where in Cyprus are you? Some nice roads up by Epi Garrison for driving, just watch out for the bent coppers on the motorways!

 

is there any chance i cant get a photo pointing out the sensors please? ive tried looking but i cant find it ,

alright bud , am on the opposite side of the island mate.

 

Look behind the cam pulley on the nearside of the engine by the oil filler neck and you'll see a plug on a sensor. I can't get photos for you because I don't have a Subaru at the moment

 

I found this on a google search, here it is

 

is it the red clip yeah ? and i only need to disconnect 1 sensor ? not both?

 

The red one in that photo and you only need to disconnect one sensor to stop the engine from firing

 

cheers , got it done yesterday , thought idd broken it ha but no just takes a while for the oil light to go out , and the turbo timer left the electrics on was a bit scary till i realised what it was ,

while ive mentioned the turbo timer is a apexi one on manual mode it only works when it wants to it doesnt always kick in is this common ?

 

Not long back from Paphos (sp) Josh, I'm getting married in Coral Bay in May next year. I saw quite a few modded jap cars but only one scoob, a P1 on a forecourt .
They seem to be more into their bikes over there.

 

I'd forget the turbo timer and switch it off.

Just don't hammer the car for the last couple of miles of any journey and that will cool things down nicely.

I'd also recommend a set of gauges if you don't already have them, oil temp, oil pressure and boost, an air fuel ratio gauge is also a good thing.

 

cheers , what gauges you recommend ? , atm there is turbo batt and temp

also ive just blew a fuse , (the wiring in the back aint the best) can any one post me up a english verision of the fuse box , as mine is in Jap

 

sorted it , turns out it was a 15A fuse in the engine bay fuse box

 

a coolant recommendation too??