I want that deeeeep rally burble, pops, bangs and even flames( Although not the dirty great big chavvy flames, real genuine flashes)

I have an exhaust system on at mo, couldn't tell you what is or how far it stretches. It reads SR Jasma, Safety regulation for road use, Jasma member 001 on the back box. Sorry its a little vague

Any help in identifying the exhaust and what I would need to achieve the above.


Thanks

 

de-cat and remap would achieve what your asking

 

get a straight pipe from the turbo simple few days time mine is gonna be a 3" roger clark pipe

 

fujitsubo giken

 

ok. Ive found out that JASMA stands for Japanese Automobile Sports Muffler Association. Its apparently a kind of MOT for your exhaust in Japan to see if the exhaust adheres to set standards of noise, or something like that. Really I need to take car to a garage where they can tell me exactly what I have.

 

I wanted the same for my 555 for obvious reasons. I already had a 3" cat back system with a adjustable sliding baffle back box, I then fitted a resonator delete pipe, Apexi induction kit, Bailey dump valve.

It now makes all the right noises!!!!!

Hope this helps

 

Forgive the ignorance but what is a resonator delete pipe

 

Basically, a straight through pipe.

An airbox resonator delete creates a smoother path for intake air, an exhaust resonator delete removes a silencer for a smoother less restrictive path for exhaust gases.

 

Ours is a grp N GC8 gravel car. It has a straight through Prodrive quick release exhaust, and is mapped on optimax, plus it runs a GEMS ecu with anti-lag. This makes it sound great.

The issue comes around driveability - the car is mapped to over fuel so when it first starts it sounds very lumpy (the scooby burble, but always on the verge of stalling), plus the throttle is jacked slightly, which means it always wants to pull. The one thing to check on the popping and banging, we run Anti lag on the stage which does this, to keep the turbo spooling when we come off the throttle, however we are not supposed to run this on the road as it can damage the engine.

I'm pretty sure there is a road version of ALS out there that can be used without damaging the car.

 

Thanks. So I'm looking at at straight through de-cat from turbo, A good backbox and remap???

 

Ive read about the ALS. It seems to be perfect but I am scared of blowing my engine. I woould always sacrifice performance for reliability. That is until I win the lottery

 

I would definitely say you need the decatted exhaust from turbo back (so make sure you have a friendly MOT guy), and a VTA dumpvalve. This may give you pops and bangs and the odd flame on overrun.

Otherwise its the exhaust and a remap with something like Simtek which has an anti-lag feature. << thats what I would do in this situation

 

This may sound really dim, but I am a novice at this. VTA dumpvalve? What exhaust parts would I need? I understand that the backbox is at the back. Is it the straight through decat next. Then a down pipe? where does the manifold come into it?

 

What Scoob you got fella?

 

A MY00 Classic WRX Type RA

 

why do you need vta dumpvalve ???

i'm running no dump or recirc and it pops,bangs and spits flames

just curious because a lot of people say you need vta...

 

Whats yours running to make it do that.

 

im the same full decat tek 3 remap from pat herborne @scoobyclinic loads of pops bangs and spluttering flames.mind you the exhaust is a blitz nur spec r.

 

I was on about getting pops/bangs without having the car remapped. I know as I had a Nur Spec-r on my old my99 UK Scoob with a Forge VTA DV and got pops/bangs

If the O.P. is getting the car mapped, no VTA dumpvalve is needed, as you can get pops and bangs mapped in on fuel overrun.

 

a few bits but it used to do it with o.e ecu and std recirc valve

 

I have a 3" decat turbo back system, equal length headers, apexi intake, FMIC, no dump valve and an Apexi power FC. Retarded the timing and increased the fuel on over-run and get some wicked pops and bangs.
It got even better when I wrapped the headers, up-pipe and down-pipe.

 

Keeps the heat in the exhaust doesn't it, thus giving the unburn't fuel extra heat to ignite

Something like that

To the poster who requested why the need for a VTA dumpvalve over the standard recirculating, my understanding is the following...

The recirc valve when lifting off, changing gear etc, recircs the air back into the manifold or what not, thus mixing with the fuel being injected. A VTA one vents to atmosphere, leaving unburnt fuel to enter the exhuast and ignite, causing pops/bangs/flames sometimes.

Now the above is my interpretation and some parts may be wrongly worded/wrong terminology used, but having spoken to a couple tuners, that was the general idea that came across.