Guy n girls,

What would you do with 8-9K to spend….is the blob eye that bad a car compared to the classic?

I understand its heavier, how much does that effect its performance ? Flip side of that, is the blob eye a “nicer” car to drive/own in “normal” use?

More refined id imagine? Better interior? Better brakes?

Does the blob eye have a more reliable/stronger drive train/engine?

Cheers

B

 

as a day to day car, the blobeye is better, its a little more refined for want of a better word lol

perfprmance wont be that disimilar, although i have a PPP version. the power is up a little on the blobeye, but i dont know how that would equate to the road.

plus, your going to be looking at the worse end of the market in terms of a blobeye with that amount.


john

 

Having owned both, i prefer the Blobeye.

OK, there's been 9 years between ownership, (doubt i've matured though ) it was just a better car IMO.

Doubt you'll get a good blob wrx for that money though. If you can't raise any more money, or get lucky, then I'd rather have a premo, late model, low mileage classic, than a high mileage tatty blobeye.

 

Saying that though, just checked the 'trader and there's a couple in your range:

2003 SUBARU Impreza WRX Version 8,
53 reg. Silver, low mileage car with 17in alloys, full electric pack, air con, CD player, dump valve STi, rear spoiler and light covers etc, p/x welcome, V-car listed hence bargain. £7,495

2003 SUBARU IMPREZA 2.0 WRX AWD Turbo 4dr Saloon
38,000 miles, Red, 03 reg, FSH & already had its 40k miles service, 1 previous owner, RAC Trackstar Tracker with speed camera alerts and Anti hi-jack, STi side skirts, Rear diffuser, Air Con, Power steering, Alarm, CD player, ABS, new house and company car forces a reluctant sale. £10,000

Bet you could make an offer in your price range.

 

Go for a late decent Classic. If it's registerd before 1st March 2001 then the road tax should be cheaper too as tax rules changed then from being based on engine size to emisions.

 

Have you looked at the front of a bug eye....euk!!!

Alan (slightly leaning - classic owner)

Seriously though - I understand that a classic is supposed to be the better car and the tax thing is true after March 2001 - have to hunt tho for a decent classic these days but I got a 30K PPPd and LURV it!

Could well be wrong about this but certainly everyone I spoke to pointed to the classic if I could not afford a blob eye (which I cant!)

AK

<edit> erm - think I missed that one, or have missed something bigger- bug eye is 01-03 I think and is something you wont to avoid... as I said above, blob eye if you can afford it, in which case thread answeres makes sense now.... (tho I have had a 04 (blobeye?) owner in my car and likes certain things about it such as the seats and PPP - have to see what happens once he gets his PPPd (only a matter of time since his parner called me Mr PPP the first time I ever met her in my life.. think someones been talking)

 

mr gazhat fellow whats that mean? v-car listed... cheers

andy

 

You want to buy a ten year old car then that's fine. The classics do have advantages but for me there is no question about which one to go for.

 

Means its recorded on VCAR better known as Vehicle Condition Alert Register so at so me time in its life its hit something very hard or similar

 

could it not have been stolen?

john

 

Haven't got a clue mate, just cut n' paste straight from autotrader. Just to give him an idea of what he could afford.

 

Would you prefer a typical modern (if unexciting) family saloon interior -
~ or one made by a Blue peter presenter from yoghurt pots ?

 

Thanks for the replies guys....the reason i asked is that there are blob eyes WRX's in good condition with low mileage in that price range out there,private sales of course.

 

Nae bother Brybusa.

On a serious note, I bought a 2001 WRX 2 months ago. good car, but the first thing i wanted to do was to modify it ! Main thing is that the supension is a bit softer than you might expect. Whiteline ARB and drpolinks solve this and fitted will cost about £160 or less. (Prodrive springs are probably better
but cost £450 done by dealer).

I did both for good measure and the car handles very well indeed now (without being too hard).