Hello all,

I am a newbie. I know, lot's of dumb-*** questions that you have answered a millions times before etc etc, but please, PLEASE can I have your opinions and advice since you guys are not trying to sell me anything and will only give me HONEST advice and not try and rip me off! )

I have a 2000/W turbo, the classic shape, with the prodrive performance pack on it. I have money to spend, and this is what I am going to do. Can you tell me what you think...

AP Organic clutch
Lightweight flywheel (5.5 kg's, 11kg standard)
Lightweight front pulleys (0.6kg, 3kg standard)
Magnex twin dump downpipe
Magnex cat removal pipe
Prodrive back box
Non-oiled cone air filter, the HKS or K&N or something
6-pot AP Racing calipers, 330mm
Wheels to fit + 215,40 17 tyres
Eiback -20mm lowering springs
STi "red" shock adsorbers
Poly bushes where-ever I can be bothered to fit them
Front mounted APS (or alike) intercooler
Uprated anti-roll bars

what do you guys think. Anything else I need to do, or anything I DONT need to do.. the car will be taken to track days all this year, and will be going to the South of France and the Nurburgring

thanks

andy.

 

If ur takin' it on the track all this year i would go for a full set of coilovers for the sus' and drop it more than 20mm! I'm no expert on suspension, but a 20mm drop will be hardly noticeable!

Also, get a Blitz or HKS exhaust, if it's for track days, you want some serious noise!!

Dunc.

 

thanks guys

what is an AFR thing and Knocklink??

 

what lightweight pulleys are you going to use?
and from where?

cheers
and welcome

 

The lightweight pulley kit is from Clarke Motorsport in Leistershire and they weigh absolutely nothing.

these are the guys who are doing the work for me in a couple of stages...

01455 828610 is the number.

 

If your going to change your intercooler to a front mounted one then you will need to have a remapped ecu to compensate for this.
The 6 pots are a good idea at 1700 quid (and 400-500 quid for replacement discs) but unless your going for big power then a 4 pot set up or a brake conversion (check out godspeed for brake conversions on the original calipers) then its not really worth spending the cash on.
Clutch.... hmmmm good choice but is it for the right reasons?
You could just be throwing 1k away by having one fitted as these take some time to fit, also if there isnt much wrong with the standard item id wait until that gets to its limits before changing it.
The springs are a good idea, it just depends on how much you want to spend on your suspension though as there are a few good packages around (but not cheap if you want to go the whole hog).
Wheels..... id find a good all round marque when choosing the alloys (not some cheapo company) and fit the best tyres you can (not worth doing all the rest to your car if your tyres cant grip anything is there? ) but apart from that, you seem to have the right idea, it just depends on how much cash you have to spend (400 for the clutch, 900 for a FMIC, 500 for a remapped ecu if you still have the original one, 1700 for the AP's, 120 quid for the eibachs, 350 for exhaust parts, back box at 200ish quid if required as you should already have the prodrive item fitted, id also throw in a set of defi gauges to see exactly what your cars doing too, these will set you back around 500 quid and id say get them expertly fitted too (should note that there is no labour added to the above so it will set you back a fair ammount for that too).
Happy Modding

Tony

 

Sell your car and buy this one!. All the mods are done

 

I would disagree a little about the hks and blitz, cos although there are imo amongst the best in terms in terms of power gain you could run into noise issues as the car may be considered to loud (especially for goodwood or bedford) for some tracks.

In fact even a hayward & scott/scoobysport could make push it beyond certain tracks limits, though you could always use the 'bung' in the hks or blitz but this would kind of defeat the point.

Personally i would change a few of the items listed and add a few extra (arguably better) ones for example not a great deal of benefit imo in doing the front mount unless you have ways to increase fuelling to cope with the better air flow and both of these may benefit further from a hybrid turbo, but i'd hate to be accused of trying to spend your money as i am biased


tony - snap

[Edited by ptholt - 3/7/2003 3:31:11 PM]

 

So, leave the prodrive backbox on it, as obviously I already own it!

And do perhaps the ITG airbox replacement panel filter..

The reasons for doing the brakes and Intercooler were under advice from clarke's who basically said they would do those first because if you are track daying it you wanna just be able to thrash it all day without overheating/detting, or having any problems with the brakes. Then we decided to finish the exhaust with the cat removal and downpipe which seems sensible, then we thought a nice little "cheap" mod by lowering it a bit and bringing the C of G down a bit, and then (from my a-series mini tuning days!) I though about lightened internals! and the flywheel and pulley's came up. The clutch is fitted as the BEST up to 350bhp because once the flywheel is replaced, seems ideal to do the clutch, and I am fairly hard on them anyway, and our car has done 37,000 miles, and it judders and knocks after 1 or 2 fast get-aways.

That is how the project has evolved, and that is how I have came to my shopping list!

Am I right in saying that my MY has a programmable ECU with ECUTEK DirectECU software? if so anyone know where I can get it? If it is programmable, why replace the ECU with anything else (link etc)? why not just keep the original and program it accordingly? I need the definite "dime tour" of Subaru MY00 ecu's please! (don't be scared to throw me to the drivetrain page, as I don't know where the line is yet!)

Also, am I right in guessing that the bhp of my car will be around 260bhp after all this?

 

I wouldnt change the filter unless it was to one of a subaru specification (check out www.scoobymania.co.uk and look at the STi filters).
Performance wise..... my MY00 PPP with scoobymania dp pushed over 260bhp at well lane, you will need to modify the little brass restrictor in the T pipe so your car doesnt overboost (its a pain whilst overtaking and this is where the boost gauge etc comes in handy ).
I also would use the original ECU that came with your car if your going to get a remap (you should hopefully have it along with the Prodrive one thats fitted to your car now, if not then you can probably source one for 1-200 quid), and also take into consideration that its only the really high powered cars (ie over 300bhp) that will need a FMIC (along with an engine rebuild etc for the power that the car will then be handling, not cheap at 5+k either).
The best thing to start with is the handling, the eibach springs are cheap so not a problem there, the wheels and tyres are your choice at the end of the day but id fit something like the Goodyear GSD3, then get the brakes done (a 4 pot set up is more than enough in most cases, even on a track) and then get some gauges fitted.
After that id go for the decat downpipe and if you want to replace your baffle box with a straight through pipe then do so but be warned that the car will be somewhat noisier than it was before you decat it and if you do alot of driving it can become tiresome
Your car will run fine at this stage, but adding an FMIC would really not be worth it unless you added a bigger turbo and then you would need to add the turbo and FMIC at a garage and have the ECU mapped there straight afterwards (as i wouldnt risk driving anywhere with big modifications over standard as it could cause more harm than good).
The AE802 ECU that you should still own (if either you or the previous owner had when the car was PPP'd) is ideal for ECUTEK software, i WOULDNT get the PPP ecu remapped though as its worth a bit more than an AE800 series ecu.

Tony

 

But u wont go far wrong with Roger Clarkes they r the daddies with scoobies & i wood say u will have fun with the AP clutch & lightened flywheel i just had 1 fitted thru necesity as OE un woz shafted & it trully is boss with the power (admitedly i dont have loads more like u will ) if that floats yer boat then u can red line it & side step clutch
Have fun thou chap.
When u at Clarkes then i'm in 4 a service next month?
Si

 

we are at clarkes 15th March, looking forward to a clutch I can abuse!! also, I wish the prodrive had not been done because loads of people are saying "get a standard ecu" and I don't have one.

 

Its not that you shouldnt have had the PPP done its the fact that you should have had all the parts they replaced given back to you (had my car done in Warwick).
For limited engine mods the PPP ecu is capable enough to handle them, for much outside the range it isnt, but then again a down pipe does make a difference
Serious power in a UK car will cost you seriously (pardon the pun ) but for what you have you wont regret (for a while but its still enough to outpace most cars on the road )

Tony

 

ah, just to clarify, we bought the car with Prodrive done, and don't have the standard stuff (

 

>Prodrive back box
>Non-oiled cone air filter, the HKS or K&N or something

wouldn't do that myself... on your MY You have a foil MAF which is quite fragile. Stick with the normal Airbox. I'd also go for a Scooby sport backbox myself (which I did ) over the prodrive item

Also the Leda shocks or full coilovers.

Other than that welcome to the club
I'd get a AFR Meter + Knocklink too (if you have the money ) If your serious about mods go to Drivetrain though

Also depending where you are speak to some distributors. Scoobysport, Scoobymania, JWRacing (sure theres more ) I'm sure would be keen to seperate you from your hard earned cash Also getting that amount of stuff your talkin SERIOUS discount time
[-edited to say about contact a distributor-]

[Edited by Dizzy - 3/7/2003 2:50:47 PM]