Pro-R's 340R performance Pack sign in (saloon or Hatch)
03 March 2013, 07:03 PM
#151
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I think Pro-R and subaru purposely did a p-poor job its gutless. :Mad:
so I'd end up getting done elsewhere and lose my warranty.
I'm in two minds what to do really. I'll either keep warranty or whack a decent cossie engine in it
Tony
15 March 2013, 04:41 PM
#157
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Went up to Subaru for the 320 map came away with the 340 one
H&S catback exhaust. (2nd cat still in place)
Slightly lower figures from Powerstation on the day but running winter tyres (if that makes any difference ?)
Last edited by Don Clark; 15 March 2013 at 04:55 PM.
15 March 2013, 04:57 PM
#158
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15 March 2013, 06:41 PM
#160
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Coming up for 8 weeks and still no sign of my replacement pro-r backboxes 
The only way i've managed to get any movement was to email scorpion direct and then get an update.subaru tell me a different story
Parts supposed to be at my dealers next thursday.
Wont be holding my breath for that one.
Thinking of getting the centre section from h&s to go back on with them
The only way i've managed to get any movement was to email scorpion direct and then get an update.subaru tell me a different story
Parts supposed to be at my dealers next thursday.
Wont be holding my breath for that one.
Thinking of getting the centre section from h&s to go back on with them
15 March 2013, 07:20 PM
#161
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Tony,
Your **** dyno needs recalibrating...... that power/torque and overall graph looks nice. I was expecting it to look a right piece of **** based on what you had said before!!!
Your **** dyno needs recalibrating...... that power/torque and overall graph looks nice. I was expecting it to look a right piece of **** based on what you had said before!!!
15 March 2013, 11:41 PM
#162
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340r runs at the limit of the exhaust system. Pat had a go on Hughy"s and it just detonated as soon as boost was turned up and lost power on retard so cat was stopping it breathing and cylinders were over heating.
Last edited by terzoscooby; 15 March 2013 at 11:50 PM.
16 March 2013, 06:03 AM
#163
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It was more responsive as the 320r it seemed to get worse during cold weather. Hot weather it was better. Which is an oxymoron really
Last edited by T5NYW; 16 March 2013 at 06:29 AM.
16 March 2013, 07:33 PM
#164
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Currently thinking about changing my blob wrx and getting one of the new saloon's, a white 2010 reg at a dealers not far from me.
Says it has a 330 prodrive upgrade on it but i thought these were just for the hatches?
Also how bad are the 2.5's for engine failure?
Says it has a 330 prodrive upgrade on it but i thought these were just for the hatches?
Also how bad are the 2.5's for engine failure?
17 March 2013, 12:27 AM
#165
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MY11's can have either 320 or 340 pack, you're right 330 is MY08's.
The maps on the saloons seem to be much safer than on the hatches.
To help convince you.
The maps on the saloons seem to be much safer than on the hatches.
To help convince you.
Last edited by Abx; 17 March 2013 at 12:30 AM.
17 March 2013, 05:59 PM
#169
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They do look nice, needs the big spoiler though
17 March 2013, 06:08 PM
#170
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No, for one the 330 is hatch specific and uses the hatch ppp backbox which is completely different to the saloon, I'd imagine the sales man is just confused and its a 320.
Mine came from a main dealer and had no cert for the 320 so a quick call to IM confirmed all was ok and they sent me a cert in the post.
As for badge, MY11's with power upgrades have no badge to show what it is.
Mine came from a main dealer and had no cert for the 320 so a quick call to IM confirmed all was ok and they sent me a cert in the post.
As for badge, MY11's with power upgrades have no badge to show what it is.
17 March 2013, 06:27 PM
#171
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Ahhh, he said it was some special 330 Colin McRae upgrade. I was a bit like WTF?
Thinking of going to see it on Tuesday so will see what like it is then.
Seen people mention IM on the engine failure thread, who/what are they cause i cant seem to get there site to load
Thinking of going to see it on Tuesday so will see what like it is then.
Seen people mention IM on the engine failure thread, who/what are they cause i cant seem to get there site to load
17 March 2013, 09:41 PM
#174
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17 March 2013, 09:53 PM
#175
I have a theory about the problem but need a ECUTEK mapper input to see if I'm talking squat.
My car went ok in the summer ish. And reckon its definately got worse the colder it's got. Also my fuel consumption is abnormally high. Low down torque is missing. I reckon on a manual choke I'd have left partically on .
Now this is the opposite to older Subarus the always go better in the winter
IIRC Our new cars have a wideband MAF sensor that takes air temperature and allows different amounts of oxygen in same volume of air at different temps.
so the question is when running in open loop mode what temperate change alter? Does it offset the MAF reading so to keep the AFR correct? Is there setting that could be account for over corrective offset.?
My car went ok in the summer ish. And reckon its definately got worse the colder it's got. Also my fuel consumption is abnormally high. Low down torque is missing. I reckon on a manual choke I'd have left partically on .
Now this is the opposite to older Subarus the always go better in the winter
IIRC Our new cars have a wideband MAF sensor that takes air temperature and allows different amounts of oxygen in same volume of air at different temps.
so the question is when running in open loop mode what temperate change alter? Does it offset the MAF reading so to keep the AFR correct? Is there setting that could be account for over corrective offset.?
Now Andy did wind this feature back a little so I can could have fun in the cooler weather, but still does it all be it not as bad but I think it spoils my car no end. Its bloody amazing when its 9c and above but below that its ****e and swines fuel.
Sooner the syvecs is fitted the better, I hate this ecu.
17 March 2013, 10:31 PM
#176
17 March 2013, 11:55 PM
#177
From what I know on the ECUTEK side there is a part within the ecu which limits boost in cold weather, I had this talk with Andy F when mapping mine as I said it was **** in cold weather the boost wasn't reaching its peak Unless I hammered it and forced the old top mount intercooler to heat right up. It more like a safety feature designed not to overboost the engine.
Now Andy did wind this feature back a little so I can could have fun in the cooler weather, but still does it all be it not as bad but I think it spoils my car no end. Its bloody amazing when its 9c and above but below that its ****e and swines fuel.
Sooner the syvecs is fitted the better, I hate this ecu.
Now Andy did wind this feature back a little so I can could have fun in the cooler weather, but still does it all be it not as bad but I think it spoils my car no end. Its bloody amazing when its 9c and above but below that its ****e and swines fuel.
Sooner the syvecs is fitted the better, I hate this ecu.
18 March 2013, 12:25 AM
#178
My Knowledge on this is limited to be honest, Andy did show me the tables he'd adjusted whilst mapping the car but This is going back 3 years now so my memory isn't that great.
But However what i can tell you from what I recall its to do with measuring intake air temp at the maf & the ecu knowing that the cooler air entering is more dense than that of warmer air so the ecu cuts the boost back as the overall volume is regarded as the same as if the air was 3 deg warmer with an extra few psi of boost if that makes sense.
its only on the 08 DBW cars onwards that have this rather crap feature, I personally bloody hate it.
Example, you can be at say 5c intake and the boost is at 20psi so doesnt seem as urgent. But if you sit in traffic for a couple of mins and allow the engine bay temps to rise a few degrees then the ecu puts the boost back up to 25psi and off like stink it goes until the measured temp drops down and then the boost is taken away again.
But However what i can tell you from what I recall its to do with measuring intake air temp at the maf & the ecu knowing that the cooler air entering is more dense than that of warmer air so the ecu cuts the boost back as the overall volume is regarded as the same as if the air was 3 deg warmer with an extra few psi of boost if that makes sense.
its only on the 08 DBW cars onwards that have this rather crap feature, I personally bloody hate it.
Example, you can be at say 5c intake and the boost is at 20psi so doesnt seem as urgent. But if you sit in traffic for a couple of mins and allow the engine bay temps to rise a few degrees then the ecu puts the boost back up to 25psi and off like stink it goes until the measured temp drops down and then the boost is taken away again.
18 March 2013, 10:41 AM
#180
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rob,
I'm slightly perplexed with your view.
From what I know all you're talking about is inlet temp compensation tables.... I have them enabled on my JDM MY06 ECU and they are a godsend. Mine have been set to work exactly as they should.... below certain temps (when it get's very cold) I have the ECU pull the boost target down. Without this feature I would (and did) hit the boost cut in sub 5deg environments. The compensation is adjustable so you certainly shouldn't be feeling a power loss.
The "knack" is to set this optimally for the various conditions.
All Andy would need to do is adjust the map again..... it's simple to sort.
I did all of this with Richard Bulmer remotely. I sent him logs and he sent me a new EcuTEK map based on the logs to get this spot on. I know this is not a method that all could be bothered with, but set correctly, this feature is great to have.
The ECU you have is fantastic imo.
I'm slightly perplexed with your view.
From what I know all you're talking about is inlet temp compensation tables.... I have them enabled on my JDM MY06 ECU and they are a godsend. Mine have been set to work exactly as they should.... below certain temps (when it get's very cold) I have the ECU pull the boost target down. Without this feature I would (and did) hit the boost cut in sub 5deg environments. The compensation is adjustable so you certainly shouldn't be feeling a power loss.
The "knack" is to set this optimally for the various conditions.
All Andy would need to do is adjust the map again..... it's simple to sort.
I did all of this with Richard Bulmer remotely. I sent him logs and he sent me a new EcuTEK map based on the logs to get this spot on. I know this is not a method that all could be bothered with, but set correctly, this feature is great to have.
The ECU you have is fantastic imo.