£20 to the person who can solve ...
27 February 2012, 10:34 PM
#31
Seriously, Just run a bit of pipe from the open pipe on the top of the recirc valve to the bunged hole on the inlet, At least this way you can rule out the dump valve if the problem is still there, Really is a simple task, try it you never know 
27 February 2012, 11:02 PM
#33
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As a bodge job to try and pin it on the VTA dumpvalve or the OE recirc jobbie, just bung the connection to it.
This way you can find out if there is something wrong with BOTH the OE DV or the Forge VTA one.
If it idles ok with the connection plugged both valves are faulty, but at this moment I am thinking that there is something else that is faulty (either an air leak or hoses conencted wrong)
This way you can find out if there is something wrong with BOTH the OE DV or the Forge VTA one.
If it idles ok with the connection plugged both valves are faulty, but at this moment I am thinking that there is something else that is faulty (either an air leak or hoses conencted wrong)
28 February 2012, 01:50 PM
#34
Try disconnecting the vacuum pipe from th D/V and try running it, the boost pressure alone isn't enough to open a D/V it relies on the vacuum pressure from a closed throttle to suck the D/V open.
As said earlier even if you completely blocked the D/V there is no reason why the engine wouldn't run.
Oh also I'd test the boost control solenoid to ensure it is bleeding boost away correctly, or in your case check if it's bleedIng any boost away.
Do you have a boost gauge? If not get one and monitor the results.
As said earlier even if you completely blocked the D/V there is no reason why the engine wouldn't run.
Oh also I'd test the boost control solenoid to ensure it is bleeding boost away correctly, or in your case check if it's bleedIng any boost away.
Do you have a boost gauge? If not get one and monitor the results.
basicly what is happening is .... with the standard recirc valve inplace i removed the vac line manifold and the piston on the valve fully closes the car dose not stall but runs very lumpy so like u said its not just boost pressure keeping it open.. also if i block the revirc valve off it keeps running.
so i thought id try my luck with the forge, bolted it on started her up the car DIDNT STALL but if i go to give same throttle ( this bits hard to explain) its revs hi then takes ALOT longer to drop in revs than normal and over all isnt responsive... if i rev 2 or 3 times im getting a "chic" noise which sounds like it coming from the turbo..
so in a nutshell the car isnt stalling anymore but with the forge on u go to rev it takes longer and it also takes alot longer to drop.
think im gonna see if i can get my hands on another dv to make sure the 1 i have isnt faulty although ive had it apart many times to change the spring strenghs over and can see no problems with it.
29 February 2012, 09:53 PM
#41
on tick over the inlet in under vacuum which is why the valve is opening, usually decent forge valve has a stronger spring to hold closed under slight vacuum, your car on idle will be sucking in air that is un metered which is why the poor running.
01 March 2012, 10:57 AM
#43
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Your recirc is designed to be open at idle and light cruise so that part is normal.
Your ISCV should not move with hand pressure so that is also normal.
If you have ran the car like this with the recirc vented to atmo then the ECU will have learned a fueling offset to suit the 'lost' air ie it will have trimmed back the fuel and stored the values in the learned tables in the ECU.
You now fit a VTA with a stronger spring and no longer have a large (false) airflow signal through the MAF, the ECU has no way of telling that you just plugged a big leak so it cuts back the fueling to match the new (reduced) air flow as measured by the MAF, this means you don't get enough fuel to keep the engine running, or at least not running clean.
The solution is to fit your VTA and then reset the ECU fuel learning tables (batt disconnect for 2 mins will do) then start up and let it learn the idle fueling again.
Andy.
Your ISCV should not move with hand pressure so that is also normal.
If you have ran the car like this with the recirc vented to atmo then the ECU will have learned a fueling offset to suit the 'lost' air ie it will have trimmed back the fuel and stored the values in the learned tables in the ECU.
You now fit a VTA with a stronger spring and no longer have a large (false) airflow signal through the MAF, the ECU has no way of telling that you just plugged a big leak so it cuts back the fueling to match the new (reduced) air flow as measured by the MAF, this means you don't get enough fuel to keep the engine running, or at least not running clean.
The solution is to fit your VTA and then reset the ECU fuel learning tables (batt disconnect for 2 mins will do) then start up and let it learn the idle fueling again.
Andy.
Thanks for the advice Andy ... I'm already on the case, will let u no how I get on shortly
23 March 2012, 02:08 PM
#46
Hi peeps ..
Ok so the thread continues ... For all u people that wanted me to re plum in the recirc valve I've done it and the problem persiseds ...
I've also tried changing:
Turbo
Icv
Bcs
Resetting ecu
On start up throttle takes a age to go up and a age to come down also left it to idle for about 10 min was ticking over ok till the end and then idle was very low and about to cut out
Any 1 else have any ideas
Ok so the thread continues ... For all u people that wanted me to re plum in the recirc valve I've done it and the problem persiseds ...
I've also tried changing:
Turbo
Icv
Bcs
Resetting ecu
On start up throttle takes a age to go up and a age to come down also left it to idle for about 10 min was ticking over ok till the end and then idle was very low and about to cut out
Any 1 else have any ideas
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