Sort the water leak, and then take it for a drive before your mapping session.

https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...ew-engine.html

 

 

Respect mate, that looks sweet.

 

Cheers bud. What I've done is pull the hose from the undertray and the squirters and put them on the underside of the bumper to squirt onto the top of the intercooler. However when I hooked it up the ic tank just emptied itself lol. The temp sensor for the pros ports has kindly stripped the thread on the water cross over pipe so the alternators going to have to come back off and I may have to heli coil it ! 2 steps forward....

Also has anyone ever experienced that the air filter keeps popping off as it's sitting just touching the Fmic pipe work?

 

Very close now great job there

 

What size thread is it on the cross over?

Looking good mate,

 

Hope so! every job seems to have its own stumbling block.

Thanks - 1/8 NPT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8-NPT-Oi...item564e2cc941

 

you need to add a oneway check valve on the intercooler water spray pipe, i had the same problem when i moved the ic sprayer nozzle.

 

Ballache size! Is the standard one not 1/8npt then?

 

Ah cheers Tubbs. Like this i'd imagine? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aquarium-O...item4aa6d38db0

It is, but i took the standard out, put in the prosport (must have done it at an angle) and then when the standard one was going back in the thread gave up the ghost. I may be able to save it, I just can't get the angle with the alternator in the way.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-ACP-Non...item51aa05146c

 

Take the positives of what your learning on route that the way I approached it

 

Yup, all the little jobs people have done over the years I'm doing within a few weeks lol. I'll be full of helpful tips and hints for people once it's done.

 

I would appreciate some help identifying where the following plugs/pipes should be plugged into please

This comes from the top of the inlet hose which runs through the inlet manifold and bends in the direction of the boost solenoid etc.



This is coming from the bottom of the IC valve, and I think is to go onto the recirc but I've changed from top mount to front and the recirc has moved slightly.




And I found this T piece under the boost solenoid along with this plug.



I've looked through the pictures I took before I took the car apart and can't find some. Any help would be appreciated.

 

 

Front end is sitting rather high.

 

Do you think?

 

i think its just the angle of the steering that makes it look that way

 

Or Micky's crazy eyeballs....

 

150 Mile oil and filter change today...



Shims ready to go back to a very kind and helpful gentleman from here...

 

Just seen this, cheeky twat!

Stick your wedding reception up your hoop, we're not going.

 

OK, just send down the fiver for that drink .

 

Looking good there and as above big respect to you


Jura

 

Nah! It's staying in my wallet with the moths.

Send me an invite and I'll think about it.

 

Thanks a lot Jura, i know you've been through it so you must understand the horrible running in stage listening to every little noise.
I just can't wait for that first time I can open it up.



OK bud, invites come with a link to the DJ's website to request's lol.

 

How much miles are you going to run it in for before you map for full power?SJ.

 

Hi there

You shouldn't be worried too much,if engine is build correctly the you shouldn't worried yourself

Drive as usual and just don't floor it,you will need to use boost for bedding the piston rings etc,just drive as normal and everything will be fine

On first build I've check all the time logs and I've been probably more scared and more worried like you are now

Jura

 

1000miles I think is the norm.

 

I have no worry on the bottom end as I know WMS is a great engine builder.
It's the heads etc which I have fitted causing problems that I worry about, with good reason lol.
I've opened it up a few times once fully up to temp, feels very nice even with a tiny turbo.

 

Just been stopped by a commercial tyres mechanic to be told my rear wheel was buckled to hell! Space saver on, and the ticking noise that I, the MOT tester and our mechanic at work assumed was the rear disc. So, best try to source either a new alloy or see if it's possible to repair. Found this on the inside of the alloy....