joz8968

iTrader: (13)

This is it!

For prob 90% of the time.

TelBoy

But seriously, in what sense is Castrol Edge "not as good" as Pro S for example in a hard driven road car. How is it measurable? My first enging still needed replacing when the big ends wore out so what exactly is it that anyone is gaining from one oil over another, once it's of a certain quality? Never really understood. Is it just marketing and brand affiliation?

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Don't forget though, that on a used engine with some fair miles on, that's been running on a cheap semi (or even mineral brand) from day 1... Then changing to an all singing-all dancing 100% Ester F.S., isn't gonna suddenly reverse any 'damage' that might have been done...

But without verified, independent control testing, it's, ultimately, an unanswerable Q........ Much to the marketing men's dreams!

wrxWillo

It all depends what your doing with your car as to what oil you put in and how often you change it. Everyone will have their own opinion.

I use Millers 10-60 because I use it quite often for track days and competition.

If you simply have normal use on the road then go by the handbook or ask a Subaru specialist. Subaru recommend Shell Helix.

You also need to take into acount weather. For a cold winter like we just had you may want to change the viscosity slightly

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Pro S and the others I mentioned are ester based, the Edge isn't. The ester content does a few things.

1. Sticks to the metals of the engine so the oil is already in place when the engine starts.
2. Makes the oil more stable when hot
3. Makes it a better lubricant
4. often helps to keep things quiet.

Cheers

Tim

TelBoy

Understand all that Mr Willo, but what happens if you don't.

What would happen if you ran 5/40 in your car and still did track days? How do you know 10/60 is "better" and in what ways is it better, that you can measure? What detrimental effect will i notice if i ran 10/60 and lived in Siberia?

In my opinion, the engineering of oil far surpasses the requirements of the vast majority of users who buy into the premium ranges. At least, nobody has proved otherwise, as far as i'm aware.

TelBoy

Again Tim, understand all that.

But isn't that list straight out of the marketing handbook?

A "better" lubricant? Measured how exactly?
Sticks to metals. Castrol were claiming this for Magnatec (which you can still buy) 20-odd years ago.
More stable when hot. So who has had measurable problems from an "unstable" oil?


Sorry not trying to hijack the thread, just airing my scepticism of all things synthetic oil in road cars

oilman

iTrader: (9)

This all depends on oil temps. The engine is designed to run an oil when hot. In the case of the impreza it is SAE30 or SAE40 at 100degc. So use a good quality shear stable 5w-40 synthetic and as long as your bulk engine oil temps are around 100-115degc it will be fine.

Cheers

Guy.

oilman

iTrader: (9)

I think he means better as in the addition of ester, or esters can enhance the oils performance. Diesters are polar, so being electrostatically charged will cling to the internals of the engine helping with cold start protection. For ester to be effective in oil you need around 10-15% content +. The Magnatec has only a few % so can be argued it is there for marketing purposes. They are very shear stable, so the help the oil to stay in grade for longer and through harder use, they are more thermally stable so resist breaking down at excessive temps. Oils that contain esters are group V oils, this is as good as they get hence the price of the damn things.

If you are curious there is plenty of detailed info on here and the web about the pro's of oils containing ester.

Cheers

Guy

wrxWillo

What would happen if you ran 5/40 in your car and still did track days?

Oil would become too thin at high load/ temp therefore not coat/ protect the engine properly, causing friction etc


What detrimental effect will i notice if i ran 10/60 and lived in Siberia?

Oil would be too thick at cold temperatures and not coat/ protect the engine properly, causing friction etc


How do you know 10/60 is "better" and in what ways is it better, that you can measure?

For the reasons above (better for my use) but you can't measure it yourself. However you can send oil from your engine off for analysis to check that it is doing the job properly As stated before, for normal use a thinner oil would be better e.g. 5W40?

In my opinion, the engineering of oil far surpasses the requirements of the vast majority of users who buy into the premium ranges. At least, nobody has proved otherwise, as far as i'm aware.

I can't prove it but I do know that I have owned Subarus for 5 years. One for 4 and one for 1 and in those 5 years done over 100k in them and 20 track days without any engine failure whatsoever. Now I don't know and as you quite rightly said can't prove that it is due to oil that I have reliability but for the sake of saving £20 on oil I'm not willing to change and take the chance.

Not sure if that information is helpful or not LOL

oilman

iTrader: (9)

What oil temps do you see on track?

Cheers

Guy

wrxWillo

Dunno Guy. I've got a data monitor but no oil temp sensor at present. Something I'm hoping to remedy sooner rather than later.

BTW the millers is always from Opie

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for that

the hamster

iTrader: (7)

My temps at the Nurburgring were around 130 degrees with an outside temp of about 15 degrees.

I made a BIG mistake with my last oil change. I've got a 330bhp classic and it gets driven hard. Mileage is 115k and the previous owner was using 10w 60 in it for the last 2 changes (6k miles) so I suspect he was using the 60 due to age/power/mileage.

After asking around on here an other forums the "average" opinion was to use a decent 5w 40, which I did, not based on cost, based on my spec and driving style and it served me well on the trip to the Nurburgring. I did a few sub 10 min laps with no problems but on the way home, after 250 miles of motorways the oil temps/engine temps were getting up to 110 degrees and I ended up with the dreaded "knocking" bottom end.

I've no doubt that if i'd had either an oil cooler or a 10w50 or 10w 60 in there it would have protected the engine at higher temps.

As someone pointed out on here, people are quite happy to rave on about using Vpower 99 fuel in the car @ £90 a tank but penny pinch on oil which lasts 3000+ miles!

wrxWillo

So what ya gonna buy?

Bet you wished you'd never asked

L.J.F

iTrader: (31)

I use cod liver oil and can honestly say my joints feel much better for it

R12CYS

What does subaru recommend for a standard 2003 wrx with prodrive??

oilman

iTrader: (9)

A 5w-30 for one that's getting normal road use, but go for a 5w-40 if it gets driven hard.

R12CYS

Cheers, i will have a look at your website see how much..

B0DSKI

iTrader: (17)

Motul 300V 10W 50 for me