UK imprezas classics? talk to me
25 June 2011, 01:15 AM
#31
And you've forgotten possibly the biggest difference, the gear ratios
The uk car has much more relaxed ratios for motorway cruising
Standard JDM WRX saloon has rear washwipe and grey tint windows
requires 100RON fuel unless remapped
220 to 280hp according to year/spec
TD05 or VF29 turbo (vf28 on sti)
Aircon standard
Lecky folding colour coded mirrors
Door handles and placky trim/skirts usually colour coded
Some of the WRX's had vented rear discs with the 2 pot fronts
Double din ice hole
don't know how they handle better cos I was under the impression that the suspension was roughly the same, unless we are talking STI which has different springs/shocks and ARBs
quotes for standard JDM WRX about £800 for me to insure
UK car has aerial in drivers door pillar
204 to 215hp according to year (with a healthy boost in PPP guise)
Smaller TD04 turbo which limits ouright power but spools up quickly and makes the car feel quite lively and responsive
Will happily run 95RON fuel tho 97 ron is advised to get the most from the Prodrive car
Speedo and revcounter other way round
Green tint windows
Aircon as an (desireable) option
Vented rear discs only appeared with 4 pot fronts MY99
Cost me £324 to renew insurance on a Prodrive modified MY97 (roughly 240hp) this year
oh and of course the bright button....
Someone tell me if I missed something
The uk car has much more relaxed ratios for motorway cruising
Standard JDM WRX saloon has rear washwipe and grey tint windows
requires 100RON fuel unless remapped
220 to 280hp according to year/spec
TD05 or VF29 turbo (vf28 on sti)
Aircon standard
Lecky folding colour coded mirrors
Door handles and placky trim/skirts usually colour coded
Some of the WRX's had vented rear discs with the 2 pot fronts
Double din ice hole
don't know how they handle better cos I was under the impression that the suspension was roughly the same, unless we are talking STI which has different springs/shocks and ARBs
quotes for standard JDM WRX about £800 for me to insure
UK car has aerial in drivers door pillar
204 to 215hp according to year (with a healthy boost in PPP guise)
Smaller TD04 turbo which limits ouright power but spools up quickly and makes the car feel quite lively and responsive
Will happily run 95RON fuel tho 97 ron is advised to get the most from the Prodrive car
Speedo and revcounter other way round
Green tint windows
Aircon as an (desireable) option
Vented rear discs only appeared with 4 pot fronts MY99
Cost me £324 to renew insurance on a Prodrive modified MY97 (roughly 240hp) this year
oh and of course the bright button....
Someone tell me if I missed something
25 June 2011, 08:52 AM
#32
Here's a link to the SIDC FAQ. By the look of this thread a good read would be helpful. Helped me understand when I used to own my classics
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/uploads...SidcFaqToc.pdf
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/uploads...SidcFaqToc.pdf
25 June 2011, 08:59 AM
#33
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standard rb5 is 214bhp
i was shocked as well !!!
i got a uk 2000 on a 2000 v plate 218bhp on roller road in feb since then i done panel filter full scorpion exhaust ,and in my garage de-cat pipe ,sti intercooler,uprated fuel pump and a remap waiting for next year.
i was shocked as well !!!
i got a uk 2000 on a 2000 v plate 218bhp on roller road in feb since then i done panel filter full scorpion exhaust ,and in my garage de-cat pipe ,sti intercooler,uprated fuel pump and a remap waiting for next year.
25 June 2011, 09:12 AM
#34
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You really need to decide what you want from the car. Listen to Chocolate O'Brian. Both him and I are ex Impreza owners and have 'been there, done that'. If you want to get a UK turbo up to STI performance levels, you will spend the same again on parts and tuning as you would if you just bought an STI in the first place, including the insurance. Have you checked an insurance quote for a modified uk impreza? Usually ends up being a lot more than a standard sti.
You can't just bolt on a new turbo and off you go. Factor in an ecu remap at least (£600 or so.) But then if you do that, you may as well add some extra performance parts such as exhaust system, ported manifold, panel filter etc. Then you really need to check that the rest of the car is in good health to start with.
In all honesty, with the classic shape imprezas, unless you go for an sti ra with incredibly short gear ratios, there really isn't a lot of difference (on the road at least) between the uk turbo/wrx/sti. ( I had a MY97 STI, MY98 STI and a MY99 UK Turbo)
Note that all classic shape wrx's and sti's are imports and will always cost more to insure.
Sounds like there is a lot you need to consider and understand before taking the plunge. But if you want my advice, save a bit more and spend £3k on a mint UK turbo or £3.5k-£4k on a mint sti.
You can't just bolt on a new turbo and off you go. Factor in an ecu remap at least (£600 or so.) But then if you do that, you may as well add some extra performance parts such as exhaust system, ported manifold, panel filter etc. Then you really need to check that the rest of the car is in good health to start with.
In all honesty, with the classic shape imprezas, unless you go for an sti ra with incredibly short gear ratios, there really isn't a lot of difference (on the road at least) between the uk turbo/wrx/sti. ( I had a MY97 STI, MY98 STI and a MY99 UK Turbo)
Note that all classic shape wrx's and sti's are imports and will always cost more to insure.
Sounds like there is a lot you need to consider and understand before taking the plunge. But if you want my advice, save a bit more and spend £3k on a mint UK turbo or £3.5k-£4k on a mint sti.
25 June 2011, 09:46 AM
#35
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Pardon? where did i say i had 2500 to insure modify and buy the impreza?
2500 is the purchase budget
If you put a decat exhaust and 3 port boost solenoid on with a Walbro fuel pump, and had the car remapped you'd be looking at between 260-280bhp on the standard TD04 which is maxxed by then. A differeny turbo would see 300bhp which is closing the limits on the standard engine internals and gearbox. A FMIC isn't really needed until you're into the 300's comfortably. But then it gets costly with drivetrain, engine, suspension and brake modifications required mate
And you've forgotten possibly the biggest difference, the gear ratios
The uk car has much more relaxed ratios for motorway cruising
Standard JDM WRX saloon has rear washwipe and grey tint windows
requires 100RON fuel unless remapped
220 to 280hp according to year/spec
TD05 or VF29 turbo (vf28 on sti)
Aircon standard
Lecky folding colour coded mirrors
Door handles and placky trim/skirts usually colour coded
Some of the WRX's had vented rear discs with the 2 pot fronts
Double din ice hole
don't know how they handle better cos I was under the impression that the suspension was roughly the same, unless we are talking STI which has different springs/shocks and ARBs
quotes for standard JDM WRX about £800 for me to insure
UK car has aerial in drivers door pillar
204 to 215hp according to year (with a healthy boost in PPP guise)
Smaller TD04 turbo which limits ouright power but spools up quickly and makes the car feel quite lively and responsive
Will happily run 95RON fuel tho 97 ron is advised to get the most from the Prodrive car
Speedo and revcounter other way round
Green tint windows
Aircon as an (desireable) option
Vented rear discs only appeared with 4 pot fronts MY99
Cost me £324 to renew insurance on a Prodrive modified MY97 (roughly 240hp) this year
oh and of course the bright button....
Someone tell me if I missed something
The uk car has much more relaxed ratios for motorway cruising
Standard JDM WRX saloon has rear washwipe and grey tint windows
requires 100RON fuel unless remapped
220 to 280hp according to year/spec
TD05 or VF29 turbo (vf28 on sti)
Aircon standard
Lecky folding colour coded mirrors
Door handles and placky trim/skirts usually colour coded
Some of the WRX's had vented rear discs with the 2 pot fronts
Double din ice hole
don't know how they handle better cos I was under the impression that the suspension was roughly the same, unless we are talking STI which has different springs/shocks and ARBs
quotes for standard JDM WRX about £800 for me to insure
UK car has aerial in drivers door pillar
204 to 215hp according to year (with a healthy boost in PPP guise)
Smaller TD04 turbo which limits ouright power but spools up quickly and makes the car feel quite lively and responsive
Will happily run 95RON fuel tho 97 ron is advised to get the most from the Prodrive car
Speedo and revcounter other way round
Green tint windows
Aircon as an (desireable) option
Vented rear discs only appeared with 4 pot fronts MY99
Cost me £324 to renew insurance on a Prodrive modified MY97 (roughly 240hp) this year
oh and of course the bright button....
Someone tell me if I missed something
im going to look into the JDM versions i think
I'm probably old enough to be your father
25 June 2011, 11:38 AM
#37
Here's a link to the SIDC FAQ. By the look of this thread a good read would be helpful. Helped me understand when I used to own my classics
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/uploads...SidcFaqToc.pdf
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/uploads...SidcFaqToc.pdf
25 June 2011, 12:15 PM
#38
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I had a MY99 UK Classic from new, put 66K on it, never had a problem except front discs (twice replaced under warranty)
UK car will be cheaper to insure - speak to Keith Michaels re insurance.
Classic getting long in the tooth, check for rot, the paint is also poor so likely it will have had some paint on the bonnet at least.
Scoobs are not cheap to run and people buy them not realising this, check the car has been looked after and has stuff done as required, receipts are important to verify it has been looked after. for example tyres, should be changed in pairs as different rolling radii of worn/new tyres ,mixed on the axles can wind-up the diffs and **** them. Usual stuff, service history is important, signs of tack or heavy use also, IMHO walk away from tracked cars. Same again for accident damage - the usual stuff
Lots have been modded, it doesn't necessarily put you off but will effect insurance. Look for receipts for the work though to check it was done properly by people who know what they are doing.
If buying a 100k miles car do not expect to then mod it and it be reliable unless the engine drivetrain are rebuilt. I would look to uprate the suspension and brakes which will refresh the handling and give you a faster car in the real world.
If buying an MY99 car the MAF's are weak and fail causing engine failures, worth changing it as a matter of course and peace of mind. search on here for MAF failures for more info.
As a mechanic i am sure you know what usual stuff to look out for.
UK car will be cheaper to insure - speak to Keith Michaels re insurance.
Classic getting long in the tooth, check for rot, the paint is also poor so likely it will have had some paint on the bonnet at least.
Scoobs are not cheap to run and people buy them not realising this, check the car has been looked after and has stuff done as required, receipts are important to verify it has been looked after. for example tyres, should be changed in pairs as different rolling radii of worn/new tyres ,mixed on the axles can wind-up the diffs and **** them. Usual stuff, service history is important, signs of tack or heavy use also, IMHO walk away from tracked cars. Same again for accident damage - the usual stuff
Lots have been modded, it doesn't necessarily put you off but will effect insurance. Look for receipts for the work though to check it was done properly by people who know what they are doing.
If buying a 100k miles car do not expect to then mod it and it be reliable unless the engine drivetrain are rebuilt. I would look to uprate the suspension and brakes which will refresh the handling and give you a faster car in the real world.
If buying an MY99 car the MAF's are weak and fail causing engine failures, worth changing it as a matter of course and peace of mind. search on here for MAF failures for more info.
As a mechanic i am sure you know what usual stuff to look out for.
25 June 2011, 12:32 PM
#39
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id keep saving m8 4k should sort you something nice,try keith micheals to see what he can do on an sti? if possible id deffinatly not bother with the wrx,get an sti and modding ie more horses is alot easyer
25 June 2011, 01:04 PM
#40
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Ok as this seems to have gone off the topic of UK cars I shall get it back on topic 
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2859064.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2874429.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2905042.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2881953.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2930496.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2728104.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2956828.htm
As you see there are lots of cars available in your price bracket, as also pointed out, look for rust on the rear arches (its not cheap to fix) and around the window seals (front mainly).
Also mentioned is the weak maf sensors, these were revised in 2005 with a newer version, not quite as bad but can still fail if you run an oiled (definately not recommended) panel filter (dry only) or induction kit.
Brakes need some work, in standard form they really are pretty pathetic, upgraded pads and discs can sort this out and its worth speaking to Ian at www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk and asking for some of the stainless pistons he does as these wont rust like the standard items
Aircon was a 1000 quid option, its worth getting if you find a car with it, tuning is also not a problem, ecutek remap on the standard ecu will set you back around the 550-650 mark, a panel filter and exhaust and remap should see you in the 270bhp figure on a good, none tired engined car.
Oil pumps are weak when tired, they do an uprated version (look at roger clarke motorsport), I would suggest changing this also.
Tony
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2859064.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2874429.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2905042.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2881953.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2930496.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2728104.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2956828.htm
As you see there are lots of cars available in your price bracket, as also pointed out, look for rust on the rear arches (its not cheap to fix) and around the window seals (front mainly).
Also mentioned is the weak maf sensors, these were revised in 2005 with a newer version, not quite as bad but can still fail if you run an oiled (definately not recommended) panel filter (dry only) or induction kit.
Brakes need some work, in standard form they really are pretty pathetic, upgraded pads and discs can sort this out and its worth speaking to Ian at www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk and asking for some of the stainless pistons he does as these wont rust like the standard items
Aircon was a 1000 quid option, its worth getting if you find a car with it, tuning is also not a problem, ecutek remap on the standard ecu will set you back around the 550-650 mark, a panel filter and exhaust and remap should see you in the 270bhp figure on a good, none tired engined car.
Oil pumps are weak when tired, they do an uprated version (look at roger clarke motorsport), I would suggest changing this also.
Tony
25 June 2011, 02:29 PM
#41
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thats why you get a tastier insurance premium then
some really great info there that i hadnt considered, thanks
Again great info really impressed with some of the replies on here, ill definately be sticking around
roll on scooby time
I had a MY99 UK Classic from new, put 66K on it, never had a problem except front discs (twice replaced under warranty)
UK car will be cheaper to insure - speak to Keith Michaels re insurance.
Classic getting long in the tooth, check for rot, the paint is also poor so likely it will have had some paint on the bonnet at least.
Scoobs are not cheap to run and people buy them not realising this, check the car has been looked after and has stuff done as required, receipts are important to verify it has been looked after. for example tyres, should be changed in pairs as different rolling radii of worn/new tyres ,mixed on the axles can wind-up the diffs and **** them. Usual stuff, service history is important, signs of tack or heavy use also, IMHO walk away from tracked cars. Same again for accident damage - the usual stuff
Lots have been modded, it doesn't necessarily put you off but will effect insurance. Look for receipts for the work though to check it was done properly by people who know what they are doing.
If buying a 100k miles car do not expect to then mod it and it be reliable unless the engine drivetrain are rebuilt. I would look to uprate the suspension and brakes which will refresh the handling and give you a faster car in the real world.
If buying an MY99 car the MAF's are weak and fail causing engine failures, worth changing it as a matter of course and peace of mind. search on here for MAF failures for more info.
As a mechanic i am sure you know what usual stuff to look out for.
UK car will be cheaper to insure - speak to Keith Michaels re insurance.
Classic getting long in the tooth, check for rot, the paint is also poor so likely it will have had some paint on the bonnet at least.
Scoobs are not cheap to run and people buy them not realising this, check the car has been looked after and has stuff done as required, receipts are important to verify it has been looked after. for example tyres, should be changed in pairs as different rolling radii of worn/new tyres ,mixed on the axles can wind-up the diffs and **** them. Usual stuff, service history is important, signs of tack or heavy use also, IMHO walk away from tracked cars. Same again for accident damage - the usual stuff
Lots have been modded, it doesn't necessarily put you off but will effect insurance. Look for receipts for the work though to check it was done properly by people who know what they are doing.
If buying a 100k miles car do not expect to then mod it and it be reliable unless the engine drivetrain are rebuilt. I would look to uprate the suspension and brakes which will refresh the handling and give you a faster car in the real world.
If buying an MY99 car the MAF's are weak and fail causing engine failures, worth changing it as a matter of course and peace of mind. search on here for MAF failures for more info.
As a mechanic i am sure you know what usual stuff to look out for.
Ok as this seems to have gone off the topic of UK cars I shall get it back on topic
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2859064.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2874429.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2905042.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2881953.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2930496.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2728104.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2956828.htm
As you see there are lots of cars available in your price bracket, as also pointed out, look for rust on the rear arches (its not cheap to fix) and around the window seals (front mainly).
Also mentioned is the weak maf sensors, these were revised in 2005 with a newer version, not quite as bad but can still fail if you run an oiled (definately not recommended) panel filter (dry only) or induction kit.
Brakes need some work, in standard form they really are pretty pathetic, upgraded pads and discs can sort this out and its worth speaking to Ian at www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk and asking for some of the stainless pistons he does as these wont rust like the standard items
Aircon was a 1000 quid option, its worth getting if you find a car with it, tuning is also not a problem, ecutek remap on the standard ecu will set you back around the 550-650 mark, a panel filter and exhaust and remap should see you in the 270bhp figure on a good, none tired engined car.
Oil pumps are weak when tired, they do an uprated version (look at roger clarke motorsport), I would suggest changing this also.
Tony
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2859064.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2874429.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2905042.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2881953.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2930496.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2728104.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2956828.htm
As you see there are lots of cars available in your price bracket, as also pointed out, look for rust on the rear arches (its not cheap to fix) and around the window seals (front mainly).
Also mentioned is the weak maf sensors, these were revised in 2005 with a newer version, not quite as bad but can still fail if you run an oiled (definately not recommended) panel filter (dry only) or induction kit.
Brakes need some work, in standard form they really are pretty pathetic, upgraded pads and discs can sort this out and its worth speaking to Ian at www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk and asking for some of the stainless pistons he does as these wont rust like the standard items
Aircon was a 1000 quid option, its worth getting if you find a car with it, tuning is also not a problem, ecutek remap on the standard ecu will set you back around the 550-650 mark, a panel filter and exhaust and remap should see you in the 270bhp figure on a good, none tired engined car.
Oil pumps are weak when tired, they do an uprated version (look at roger clarke motorsport), I would suggest changing this also.
Tony
really impressed with some of the replies on here, ill definately be sticking around roll on scooby time
25 June 2011, 02:35 PM
#42
Scooby Regular
I just noticed this one on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2000-SUBARU-IM...item1e64976db9
just done 91k, totally standard and clean, 12 month MOT, all for £2500!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2000-SUBARU-IM...item1e64976db9
just done 91k, totally standard and clean, 12 month MOT, all for £2500!
25 June 2011, 02:45 PM
#43
re: UK spec cars quoted standard BHP
Most UK spec Turbo 2000s dyno at around 230bhp to 240bhp as standard. Mine did, and on 95RON fuel too. It was supposed to be 208bhp (MY97 with TD04 ).
Don't belive me: Look here: http://web.archive.org/web/200502070...PEindex/uk.htm
The interesting thing is JDM spec cars on the same dynos more or less gave out their quoted BHP. So it was always a common consensus that the UK car's quoted "official" power output was more conservative when in reality it was higher, maybe it was a fiddle for insurance reasons.
Like the "0.5bar boost if you hold second gear too long" bug that they do. Another fiddle to get round some form of daft legislation.
Most UK spec Turbo 2000s dyno at around 230bhp to 240bhp as standard. Mine did, and on 95RON fuel too. It was supposed to be 208bhp (MY97 with TD04 ).
Don't belive me: Look here: http://web.archive.org/web/200502070...PEindex/uk.htm
The interesting thing is JDM spec cars on the same dynos more or less gave out their quoted BHP. So it was always a common consensus that the UK car's quoted "official" power output was more conservative when in reality it was higher, maybe it was a fiddle for insurance reasons.
Like the "0.5bar boost if you hold second gear too long" bug that they do. Another fiddle to get round some form of daft legislation.
Last edited by ALi-B; 25 June 2011 at 02:49 PM.
25 June 2011, 03:01 PM
#44
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I just noticed this one on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2000-SUBARU-IM...item1e64976db9
just done 91k, totally standard and clean, 12 month MOT, all for £2500!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2000-SUBARU-IM...item1e64976db9
just done 91k, totally standard and clean, 12 month MOT, all for £2500!
25 June 2011, 04:49 PM
#45
re: UK spec cars quoted standard BHP
Most UK spec Turbo 2000s dyno at around 230bhp to 240bhp as standard. Mine did, and on 95RON fuel too. It was supposed to be 208bhp (MY97 with TD04 ).
Don't belive me: Look here: http://web.archive.org/web/200502070...PEindex/uk.htm
The interesting thing is JDM spec cars on the same dynos more or less gave out their quoted BHP. So it was always a common consensus that the UK car's quoted "official" power output was more conservative when in reality it was higher, maybe it was a fiddle for insurance reasons.
Like the "0.5bar boost if you hold second gear too long" bug that they do. Another fiddle to get round some form of daft legislation.
Most UK spec Turbo 2000s dyno at around 230bhp to 240bhp as standard. Mine did, and on 95RON fuel too. It was supposed to be 208bhp (MY97 with TD04 ).
Don't belive me: Look here: http://web.archive.org/web/200502070...PEindex/uk.htm
The interesting thing is JDM spec cars on the same dynos more or less gave out their quoted BHP. So it was always a common consensus that the UK car's quoted "official" power output was more conservative when in reality it was higher, maybe it was a fiddle for insurance reasons.
Like the "0.5bar boost if you hold second gear too long" bug that they do. Another fiddle to get round some form of daft legislation.
If i wasn't confused before i am now
02 July 2011, 10:33 AM
#48
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Dont mess with high miler or import, get a straight uk 2000 with history and if you want more power decat it and tune it. I just paid £1500 with 80k on and its mint.
02 July 2011, 06:31 PM
#49
Scooby Regular
Hang on a moment.
JDM WRX having a VF29? Are we completely sure?
I thought they all the late WRX/UK turbos had TD04. My Type RA MY00 had a VF29.
That would mean you could get over 300HP from a MY99 WRX with a remap?
Are the ratios really different? I prefer the Rev counter in the middle.
There was a nice graphite grey MY00 WRX on ebay - looked really nice.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Imp...item19c6ac60fa
JDM WRX having a VF29? Are we completely sure?
I thought they all the late WRX/UK turbos had TD04. My Type RA MY00 had a VF29.
That would mean you could get over 300HP from a MY99 WRX with a remap?
Are the ratios really different? I prefer the Rev counter in the middle.
There was a nice graphite grey MY00 WRX on ebay - looked really nice.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Imp...item19c6ac60fa
Last edited by EddScott; 02 July 2011 at 06:35 PM.
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