98 Type R Road / Track
FPR, parallel rails, larger injectors
simtek / solaris ECU
FMIC
sc36 turbo???
Accusump???
There wont be much progress over the winter though, it needs to function as a reliable commuter with occasional track use. This will also give me time to work on the classic mini
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,356
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From: in the woods...........555 Wagon Sqn
Scooby Regular
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Now with added 2.1 jun/cosworth power
As for this weekend, I have started project screamer pipe, inspired by this thread here:
https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...amer-pipe.html
The difference being, mine will be valve controlled i.e. I can enable or disable it based on a controller I will write myself. I will also be able to adjust the volume depending on how loud it is and how loud I want it to be. The valve has arrived as part of a titanium motorcycle link pipe and I have a divorced downpipe which it will be mated with. In preparation for this, I need to check how much spare I have where the downpipe sits, as to where I can fit the valve. To do this, the turbo heat shield has to come off. This evening I managed 6 of the 7 bolts which secures it, but the last requires access to the underside of the car. Will continue tomorrow...
Just seen this mate, good luck with the project ill be watching this one.
great thread, re the external fuel pump how did you wire it? I'm thinking of simply running a 12v battery feed from a relay triggered by the feed from the stock pump, but if the stock pump is voltage controlled then do I need to apply some form of control on the new Bosch external pump?
Also what's the benefit of welding up the diff cover?
Also what's the benefit of welding up the diff cover?
great thread, re the external fuel pump how did you wire it? I'm thinking of simply running a 12v battery feed from a relay triggered by the feed from the stock pump, but if the stock pump is voltage controlled then do I need to apply some form of control on the new Bosch external pump?
Also what's the benefit of welding up the diff cover?
Also what's the benefit of welding up the diff cover?
I ran a wire straight from the +ve battery terminal to the rear of the car, along the plastic channels to the side of the car. I had stripped the cars interior down to wire the amp in so I just did the fuel pump while I was there. It goes from the +ve battery terminal via the fuse box with a 15A or 25A fuse, to a relay. I then used the signal from the existing fuel pump to drive the relay. That is the correct way to do it, exactly how you suggest.
As for the stock pump being voltage controlled; it is not. it has a permanent VBATT supply, so pumps at a constant rate. Thats what the FPR is for
As for welding the diff cover, there is no benefit to it at all. I only had it welded because it took 7 weeks for my replacement diff cover to arrive, which was too long to wait without a car. I took it to the local welder who fixed it temporarily and I will refit the new cover when I do my next oil change. If you are thinking of doing the same, ensure that the welder is proficient! Heating up the alloy that close to a gasket surface may cause it to warp.
Thank you.
I ran a wire straight from the +ve battery terminal to the rear of the car, along the plastic channels to the side of the car. I had stripped the cars interior down to wire the amp in so I just did the fuel pump while I was there. It goes from the +ve battery terminal via the fuse box with a 15A or 25A fuse, to a relay. I then used the signal from the existing fuel pump to drive the relay. That is the correct way to do it, exactly how you suggest.
As for the stock pump being voltage controlled; it is not. it has a permanent VBATT supply, so pumps at a constant rate. Thats what the FPR is for
As for welding the diff cover, there is no benefit to it at all. I only had it welded because it took 7 weeks for my replacement diff cover to arrive, which was too long to wait without a car. I took it to the local welder who fixed it temporarily and I will refit the new cover when I do my next oil change. If you are thinking of doing the same, ensure that the welder is proficient! Heating up the alloy that close to a gasket surface may cause it to warp.
I ran a wire straight from the +ve battery terminal to the rear of the car, along the plastic channels to the side of the car. I had stripped the cars interior down to wire the amp in so I just did the fuel pump while I was there. It goes from the +ve battery terminal via the fuse box with a 15A or 25A fuse, to a relay. I then used the signal from the existing fuel pump to drive the relay. That is the correct way to do it, exactly how you suggest.
As for the stock pump being voltage controlled; it is not. it has a permanent VBATT supply, so pumps at a constant rate. Thats what the FPR is for
As for welding the diff cover, there is no benefit to it at all. I only had it welded because it took 7 weeks for my replacement diff cover to arrive, which was too long to wait without a car. I took it to the local welder who fixed it temporarily and I will refit the new cover when I do my next oil change. If you are thinking of doing the same, ensure that the welder is proficient! Heating up the alloy that close to a gasket surface may cause it to warp.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1879680
I guess it must be later cars that have this feature, or the Yanks are wrong
and there isn't a voltage controller, but in general I've found the NASIOC forum very good, so I'm more inclined to think it's the former rather than latter.
I agree, must just be a feature of the later cars. I know that the classic recirculates hot fuel back into the tank, its why you have the return to the swirl pot higher than the feed to it, to try and seperate the hot fuel with the cooler fuel from the tank. Doesn't have much affect really though as it all gets mixed around in the tank anyway.
I was also monitoring the fuel pump supply while deciding which wire it was. No fluctuations on the scope at all
I was also monitoring the fuel pump supply while deciding which wire it was. No fluctuations on the scope at all
Well project has taken an abrupt stop:
Car pulled out in front of me. Collision was at ~20 mph, enough to write the poor thing off. Oh well... time for a VX220 I guess!
Car pulled out in front of me. Collision was at ~20 mph, enough to write the poor thing off. Oh well... time for a VX220 I guess!
The chassis has taken a hit so theres not even a chance I could buy it back and repair it myself. I viewed a VX220 yesterday and it was OK, though it is NOTHING compared to this was! I might just go for it anyway - A scooby I can own anytime (will go for a 2003 or later next time, not another classic) whereas a totally impractical 2 seater I have to own while I can!
The handling of the VX220 really was very impressive, better than that of the scooby despite all the mods carried out. The power just isn't there, by a looooong way. That and the ride is so harsh that its borderline undriveable
Either way I will continue to develop the custom electronics, which will be suitable for any car. Will keep you posted.
The handling of the VX220 really was very impressive, better than that of the scooby despite all the mods carried out. The power just isn't there, by a looooong way. That and the ride is so harsh that its borderline undriveable
Either way I will continue to develop the custom electronics, which will be suitable for any car. Will keep you posted.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,356
Likes: 58
From: in the woods...........555 Wagon Sqn
ahh well, sounds like you have already chosen your replacement...good luck with it
Let me know what happens with the car...I may be interested in the Direzzas
Let me know what happens with the car...I may be interested in the Direzzas
Picked up the VX today. Drives very nicely
As for the Direzzas, they were removed a few weeks back to make way for the winter wheels so they are going to be up for sale!
As for the Direzzas, they were removed a few weeks back to make way for the winter wheels so they are going to be up for sale!
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