Shaun

It's more than any one single item.

Semion

I have a quastion, why on the first and the second gears the turbo sometimes pushes only 1-1,1bar, especially on the hot engine and when it's very hot outside? From the 3rd gear I see normal 1,4bar always. When it's not that hot outside, I see 1,3bar on the first gears. Is this normal or there could be a mapping fault?

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

I'd guess it has been mapped like that, as boost control is less of a problem in the starting off gears where you are in them such a short time - on a road car -. We don't usually pay huge attention to in-gear boost control in 1st or 2nd for that reason.

David APi

Semion

One more quastion. The oil cooler is now located right behind the fmic, and I notice the oil temp encreasement, comparing to when the oil cooler was fully opened. I am thinking where to move the oil cooler, in the left wing area or under the bonnett scoop. In the left wing there is a main task to organize the exit of the air. If to cut the underwing plastic shield- not a good idea, dirt from the wheel could cover or even damage the oil cooler core.
If to move under the bonnett scoop- there could be a problem with the air into the oil lines, and to check the oil level will be a bit difficult. Need your advice where to mount the oil cooler right.
On the public roads the oil temp is ok, but I am shure on the track there will be a problem.

Shaun

I'm fairly sure, utilising the per-gear boost control, I have really good boost levels in all gears.

I don't know if MOTEC has this ability?

Shaun

Utilise the space behind your foglamp covers if it bothers you that much.

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

It must have Shaun - for the cost of it. It may well be that the mapper has done what i suggested that it is less important to set it up properly for the lower gears.............

johnfelstead

Lower gear boost control is where you can gain a lot with MegaROM, if you want a fast road or sprint car you need to get the most out of these low gears, especially 2nd/3rd. The lower the gear the less likely you will reach target boost levels due to lack of engine load. I was seeing 1.5BAR in 2nd gear on my old 2.0 engine and VF37 with it mapped at 1.7BAR in 4th, first was about 1.2BAR doing a normal pull and not using any launch control to build initial boost.

Of course to achieve this you need a turbo/engine setup that has headroom in the higher gears, if it's flat out in 4th you wont get anywhere near as much in 2nd.

Shaun

Not sure what my 2nd gear boost profile hits off the top of my head, but I know mine can achieve 1.8bar in 3rd..... that gear feels brutal, especially when the air is dense.

Semion

3rd gear - oh yeah, I love it .

Sometimes I think I had to choose the LM400 over the LM450, LM400 power is more usable in the city driving, LM450 power opens on the long straights only, honestly speaking. Now I miss that sharp fast damn spool of the OE VF36.
May be next time I will go for a different turbocharger setup, may be Borg Warner EFR turbocharger, rotated fmic and the shortest fmic piping lenght, on 2.5 engine block with some block mods?

Shaun

I really don't get that statement in some respects.

My car is so driveable, even from slow speeds to accelerate with the LM450. Round town it feels great, responsive and sharp.

I dare say it would be pretty awesome with the extra capacity you have.

andy00v7

Thought you had a md turbo fitted to your car not a Lm turbo ?

Andy

Semion

yes, I should say MD turbo, not LM, sorry, I just didn't remember the LM400 analog in MD series at the moment. I promice to be correct with the spelling in the future. I should post here some dyno graphs, comparing the result to my old VF36 setup, but I just known we don't have a dyno in our city no more, it was sold (, I have to go for 300kms to next city to get on the dyno.
THE MD321T is very good, I love it. But below 100kmh speeds, especially in the city traffic, I suppose VF36 or LM400 equipped car can be faster. If go farther, my friend's N/A honda type R 200bhp is a perfect car for driving in the city. On the local tight track "Redring circuit" these hondas are showing great lap times, beating much more powerfull subaru and evo cars. This is the world of "usable power", so I would like to have some more of that usable power, that's why I supposed to rate LM400 over the LM450.

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

As I have a perrin fmic sat at home I am interested in the answer to this as well!! (and subscribing for future info - cheers Shaun )

Bob Rawle

Just playing catch up

Shaun re spool I am now making full boost (1.65 bar) at that (2700) in sixth, thats from a 2000 rpm start.

Yes Tim full spec Cosworth heads and cams with the heads having been to SWR also. Big valves, double springs and titanium gizmo's as well.

John when we next meet up we should have time to go up the road in my car and you can tell me what you think of it once you have driven it.

cheers

bob

JTinnovations

iTrader: (2)

Very nice Bob

Do you think the 500 rpm difference in spool between yours and mine is down to the heads/cams/valves?

Shaun

I stand corrected and the is well and truly justified!

johnfelstead

Should be interesting Bob.

Semion

Is it a good idea to keep the OE intercooler spray system to work with the fmic? have just to move the nozzle to the front bumper, make some adjustments to spray pattern cover as much as possible of the fmic core surface at the high speeds. Subaru use this spray system, it's effective. Why not to keep use it with the fmics? Any suggestions?

I downloaded the log file from the motec ecu, and now can analyze the log info. I see the intake temp climbs up to 45C (27C outside temp at the moment) , and it climbs pretty slowly, may be because the motec temp sensor is not so fast, may be the fmic core becomes hotter and hotter if to keep the car pushing, each gear up and up the temp is higher and higher.. I thought the more speed=the more air passes thru the fmic core=the lower intake temp is. But it's not, the more speed -the more engine load, the higher the intake temp.

Shaun

Where specifically is your temp sensor mounted and can I assume these temps
are being experienced on the road and if so, during what kind of use, speed and revs etc?

Semion

The temp sensor is mounted on the fmic-to-engine intake pipe, near the air filter element, this place is ventilated very well by the fresh air. The whole fmic-to-engine pipe is completely wrapped by special thermal wrap, it is a adhesive mirror-multi-layer thermal shield material, made in japan by Sard specially for these purposes. The temp sensor itself mounted on the thermal-shield sealant on the screw-thread. So I think the temp sensor is mounted as right as it can be.
Motec ecu has 1Mb of the log memory, I can download the log file and see all the sensor info of last 7 minutes of the engine run. The software is very good, I enjoy using it. The car did a launch and I pushed full throttle thru 3 gears to the rev limit, I see that intake temp is quite stable 32-35C in first and second gears and on third and forth it climbs up to 45C. Have no time to get the things sorted, will do some tests with the fmic and IAT values soon.

Shaun

Routine maintenance time.....
I wouldn't normally give an in-depth write-up on routine maintenance but since I haven't had any real updates over the past few months, I thought it was about time I added a few more pictures at least!

At the end, the day was far from "routine"!

I've now owned this API supplied JDM Hawkeye for just under 2yrs. I took delivery of the car, having around 8k on the clock. It now has 14,700m and is approaching 7yrs young.

Regardless of how many miles on the clock I thought it needed to be treated to a full service this year - starting with having the cambelt replaced.

I'm not entirely sure what the service interval on the cambelt normally is on this year of Impreza - 45k perhaps / 4yrs? Well it had certainly passed the year requirement and since failure of a cambelt can see the death of the engine, it needed to be done in my opinion.

Litchfield Imports offered to complete the service, so we organised a date and we were half way to being sorted.

I turned up bright and early on Wednesday morning and amongst the things that Iain and myself caught up on, Iain said that one of this customers (GTR customer I think) was picking up his new BRZ and bringing it down to the workshop. "Mmmm.." I thought.... something to have a look at later then (more on this in a while).

Iain explained that he had ordered me a "Cosworth Service Kit". Come on and let's be honest, we all love a bit of name snobbery and they don't come much better than the name "Cosworth". Even if it is only a cambelt service kit!



Even a brown box with a white sticker and the "Cosworth" branding looks sexy and intriguing! Or is it because I'm a sad case.... Mmmmm.

Open the box up and you find a plethora of Cosworth bearings, belts and tensioner sexiness!





First things first.... remove the cam covers.

Apparently it can be common for the bolt to seize in the captive back, which can cause a problem getting the bolts out. Of course this had to be a problem on mine didn't it and three bolts had seized!

Not a problem for the Litchfields technician who sorted it all.



With that out of the way it was time to undo the centre pulley nut.



This is where it went horribly wrong very quickly.

For whatever reason the nut would not loosen and the inevitable happened.



It snapped off inside!!

If I'm being honest my **** fell out of my pants, as I thought that was an "engine out" job to extract what was left of the stud. All over a "routine" cambelt change.

I needn't of worried though. The guys quickly stripped as much out of the front end as they needed, to enable the next part of the "operation" to be performed.

A "tool" was made up to enable the drilling out of the stud at a straight angle, so another one could be inserted. Everything needed to be taken out of the front, to provide space for the "tool" and drill to be used, whilst the engine was in situ. It took longer to remove all the bits in the frontend then it did to drill the stud out.

Heart attack (mine!) was averted.

The feedback was that it looked like fatigue on the stud, considering where it snapped.

Litchfields fortunately had another stud they could use.



It's times like this that you see the benefits of using companies that have knowledge to hand to do such jobs. Apparently this has never happened at Litchfields before.... you would have never of known it, based on the way they got it all sorted. Even having items of machinery around like an Air-Con discharger, just made this whole process so much easier.



After that "near death" experience (I'm getting too old for this stress!) everything else went as it should have in the first place!

Cambelt service was followed up with an oil and rear diff service. At least the last two events were "routine".

So that was me done..... got there at 9:15 and left at 17:00 I think.

Massive thanks to Litchfields (as always) for the doing the work and not being phased when it looked like (certainly to me) that it had all gone **** up!

In some way it was good that it happened..... it makes the write-up a tad more interesting!

Next outing for the Hawkeye is a visit to API in a couple of weeks for the yearly MOT. Fingers crossed that visit remains routine!


So.... what about the new Subaru BRZ!?!?!

I won't bore you with any words.... I'll just show you the pictures!

Litchfields should be getting their BRZ in a couple of weeks and there is already talk of their development programme. Producing a handling pack and engine mods to look at boosting performance to 300bhp!

G@RETH

My word I love the BRZ and it's not even that powerful but supposedly the chassis is amazing.

Shaun

Plus it's RWD - REAL Wheel Drive. *****'s need not apply.

Hammer man

iTrader: (25)

In David we trust... (mine too in the next fortnight)

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

*****'s what, need not apply?

Try Pussies.



I know I know, I'm the *******.

Semion

We all appreciate the fact that a new japanese sportcar chassis is appeared. It might be very interesting to test drive the BRZ.

But in my opinion, there is a much better car on the market in every aspect. Guess what? Honda S2000 ! The car have a better engine, better suspension, better chassis. The car is really hard to beat, especially the ap1 chassis. Regretfully, the car is out of production now ((

Shaun, does it worth it to buy the Cosworth service kit? I see only 2 cosworth things in that box, the timing belt (made by gates, I guess) and the sticker. All the idlers and the tensioner are OE from Subaru, I suppose. Or am I wrong?

I am thinking about to build a strong 2.5 engine. MD321T on 2.1 is good, but have a lack of boost on first 2 gears, the turbo opens itself only on 3rd gear, after 100km/h, I don't like it.

People here use this technology to uprate the 2.5 engine block strenght:
https://plus.google.com/photos/10612...CJrc3PCc3sb4Pw



And as I know, this works. Some of 2.5 engines run 500+bhp here with a success.

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Are you sure,about the lack of boost on first 2 gears,we are running MD321T billet on our 2.1 and spools well in any gear

This lack of boost can be problem of mapping,not turbo or engine itself


Jura

Shaun

It all depends on what Semion is referring to as "lack of boost". Obviously you don't have the load in 1st and 2nd, but I have found with good per gear wastegate compensation you can still reach targets, albeit further up the rev range.

I can't remember checking max boost in 2nd, but I'm pretty sure my set-up achieves as per the higher gears.

Semion,
Based on your objective S2000 comment, I assume you have driven a BRZ then?

I can't help but think either there is something wrong with your set-up, or your expectations of your set-up have been too high. Your turbo on a 2.1 should be awesome.... it's great on my lowly 2ltr!

There is not enough test information to back-up any real conclusions of those types of inserts on a 2.5 in the UK. It's certainly not a new concept though.

Semion

Shaun, jura, what maximum boost value do you see on the 1st gear? I see 1.0 bar, and 1.1 on the 2nd gear, 1.4bar on the 3rd. All these values depends of the air density and temp, when it's cold outside, I see a bit better numbers. On the 5 gear I see 1.5bar. These all on the pump fuel map. The mapper said it is useless to try to push the engine farther on this fuel, so he did the optimal map for this petrol. I think V-power quality in the UK is much better than our pump ****, so you get much better results.

On the CT-102 race fuel map I see 1,1 on the first, 1,2-1,3 on the second, 1,5 on 3rd, and only from 4th gear I see 1,7bar at maximum. It is totally unreal to see 1,7 on 1st gear, is it?
The mapper said the turbo physically can't give you that much of the boost on the 1st gear, whatever you try to do with the per-gear boost compensation, because of lack of the engine load.

On the stock VF36 I saw 1,4bar on each gear. I suppose MD321T on 1,1bar of boost gives about the same power as VF36 on 1,4bars.

I asked you earlier about the negative thing on 2.1 engines. Now I know the name of this negative thing, it 's Rod/Stroke ratio. on OE 2.0 it is 130.5/75=1.74 this is the ideal value for the sporty revving engines. On 2.1 stroker R/S is 130.5/79=1.65, this value have both pros and cons, you can find all the info in the internet about different R/S ratios.
What I definately notice - the 2.1 engine is more torque one, you can drive off-boost more comfortable.. But the revs climbs more lazier, I feel this difference.
2.0 revs like a motorcycle, 2.1 revs like toyota V8. I like motorcycles more