bug eye wrx or classic sti???
29 December 2009, 12:47 PM
#31
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350bhp tops for reliability on these, no matter how you treat it, the rods are still the weakest part of the chain, and the pistons are connected to those (and they go through open, semi closed and closed block's the same
)Tony
29 December 2009, 12:51 PM
#32
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If its a standard classic engine then it wont handle 400bhp or 1.8 bar for long, the block may be strong but the internals are definately not
350bhp tops for reliability on these, no matter how you treat it, the rods are still the weakest part of the chain, and the pistons are connected to those (and they go through open, semi closed and closed block's the same )
Tony
350bhp tops for reliability on these, no matter how you treat it, the rods are still the weakest part of the chain, and the pistons are connected to those (and they go through open, semi closed and closed block's the same
)Tony
It's been running for over 2 years in my car with no issues at all and that's good enough for me
29 December 2009, 01:37 PM
#33
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Well good luck 
some do run better than others but your in that high end failure rate zone the trouble is you wont get any warning when it goes, just a big bang and oil (possably a fire if your unlucky)..... 
Tony
some do run better than others but your in that high end failure rate zone the trouble is you wont get any warning when it goes, just a big bang and oil (possably a fire if your unlucky)..... Tony
29 December 2009, 01:46 PM
#34
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Are you seriously trying to tell me that if I had a £4-£5k forged build that I would get nice little warnings before the engine let go if it was going to ?
I think Andy Forrest has enough experience to know what he's talking about and also JGM so their advise is good enough for me and has been proven so far
29 December 2009, 02:42 PM
#36
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Well thanks for that
Are you seriously trying to tell me that if I had a £4-£5k forged build that I would get nice little warnings before the engine let go if it was going to ?
I think Andy Forrest has enough experience to know what he's talking about and also JGM so their advise is good enough for me and has been proven so far
Are you seriously trying to tell me that if I had a £4-£5k forged build that I would get nice little warnings before the engine let go if it was going to ?
I think Andy Forrest has enough experience to know what he's talking about and also JGM so their advise is good enough for me and has been proven so far
Thats the thing about rods, no warning.
And you have not stated your car has had a fully forged build but that its standard, and those rods suck.
Tony
29 December 2009, 02:50 PM
#38
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If a standard rod goes (well any rod goes) you wont get any warning, if its doing 3000rpm the first clatter you hear will be it leaving the block.
Thats the thing about rods, no warning.
And you have not stated your car has had a fully forged build but that its standard, and those rods suck.
Tony
Thats the thing about rods, no warning.
And you have not stated your car has had a fully forged build but that its standard, and those rods suck.
Tony
If I was going to run over the 400bhp level then I would need a forged build and that's what i'd have.
Thanks alot for helping me with selling my car
29 December 2009, 03:07 PM
#39
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You do understand that the classic rods are different to new age ones dont you?
They are not good for 1.8 bar, actually thats why most people dont take them past 1.4-1.5 bar, and is that 1.8 bar on a 20g or 1.8 bar on an 18g? because the strain is different on both, even though its 1.8bar
Tony
They are not good for 1.8 bar, actually thats why most people dont take them past 1.4-1.5 bar, and is that 1.8 bar on a 20g or 1.8 bar on an 18g? because the strain is different on both, even though its 1.8bar
Tony
29 December 2009, 03:14 PM
#40
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You do understand that the classic rods are different to new age ones dont you?
They are not good for 1.8 bar, actually thats why most people dont take them past 1.4-1.5 bar, and is that 1.8 bar on a 20g or 1.8 bar on an 18g? because the strain is different on both, even though its 1.8bar
Tony
They are not good for 1.8 bar, actually thats why most people dont take them past 1.4-1.5 bar, and is that 1.8 bar on a 20g or 1.8 bar on an 18g? because the strain is different on both, even though its 1.8bar
Tony
I'm not running 1.8 bar so it's not really relevant but as I said before Andy Forrest among others said they can hold upto 1.8 bar.
I'm running 1.5 bar on them on a 20g
I've been running this engine everyday for over 2 years
29 December 2009, 03:57 PM
#41
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classic sti all the way mate better looking car better performing car better handling car and for the money your on about spending you can afford to be choosy! everyone to there own but most people i have spoken to with classic shape cars have had the newer ones not been happy with them and come back! only newer shape i would have would be hawkeye sti
17 February 2010, 09:55 PM
#42
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WONDER IF HE'S DECIDED YET????? ALL SCOOBS ARE GREAT FROM CLASSIC TO NEWAGE TO HAKEYE, I HAVE A BUGEYE WICH IS MY FIRST. I LOVE IT! I'D LIKE A HAWKEYE STI NEXT. STILL NOT SURE ABOUT THE HATCHBACK THOUGH, MEAN LOOKING FROM THE FRONT BUT THE SEDAN'S ALWAYS THE WINNER FOR ME. PLEASE DONT DISS THE BUGEYE ITS JUST DIFFERENT FROM THE REST AS ARE ALL THE OTHERS, THATS WHAT MAKES THEM GREAT. ENJOY YOUR SCOOBS GUYS/GALS. TAKE CARE!
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