You will need the Subaru 14pin to ISO connector cable for basic radio connections.

You also have the prerequisite inputs already wired in with that 8 pin plug so can use part of the old loom and correct socket to connect to the new supplied harness.

Always best to try and get the installation manual for anything you buy before buying.

Link to the Pioneer AVH- Z5200 installation manual to show what is needed for installation and what is supplied with the unit.

 

Don, just a quick one.

With your help i understand stereos a lot better, obviously the Panasonic Strada is quite an intense learning curve as their is quite a lot going on with it and a lot of wiring and cables. I bought the ISO wiring harness, also the upgraded antenna, i just need to get the DAB aerial which is easy enough, it's just i've been a bit busy of late so the stereo went on hold. What i was going to ask, can the GPS antenna that came with the Panasonic Strada be left in as that would make things easier, it's stuck on the bottom corner of the dash so to get it out maybe awkward, i've looked on the back of it and the frequencie which is 1575.42MHZ looks to be the same as modern aftermarket GPS antennas, if i can leave that it in it would make things easier.

It doesn't look like the 8 pin is going to be needed as that looks like it was just specific for the Panasonic head unit, i'll probably have to find a ground for the handbrake cable wire, obviously the DAB aerial will need a ground on the pillar as well.

 

If the GPS antenna will plug into your new H/U, and it works, then leave it in place.
FYI: the "official" OEM position for the GPS antenna is on a metal bracket in front of the Dash/Combimeter.
Pictures below show for a LHD car but the same/similar for RHD.





As already mentioned the 8 pin connector is already wired in, giving you the links for the handbrake, illumination, speed signal and reverse inputs if needed. you just need to test them out to see which is which.
The other end of this plug and wires connects in some way to the OP connector behind the drivers side fuse box either using a goodwill connector or direct to the wires.

which for a UK car only has these 8 connections / outputs below and which match the 8 "tap outs" on the "goodwill" connector below. The B228 plug for JDM has all 15 pins fully wired.




Goodwill connector




For the handbrake it may even be a Grey wire, although from this image can only count 6 wires (Green,Yellow Black, Orange, Blue, Pink) being used.


Using this saves deconstructing the centre console to get to the handbrake.

Pioneer do a similar thing but only has the take offs required for Sat Nav /Radio use.(Handbrake,Reverse and Speed signals)



Attached is a translated JDM word document showing the OP connector location into which the Goodwill connector is plugged.

 

Bought and ready to fit, possibly over Xmas or I may leave it to sometime in the new year as I'm not in a rush as the car doesn't get used over winter.

 

All the best to everyone for 2025.

Has anyone replaced their stock roof aerial in their JDM or UK Sti hatch to a DAB roof aerial ? If so im after a link to a good one that fits the OEM roof hole where the stock aerial sits, it's just im not a fan of having one of the cheap windscreen DAB aerials as they tend to be hit and miss in the reception from the research i've been doing.

 

Although this aerial and its extension cables can be purchased much cheaper from other vendors, this site, so far is the only site that shows its underside.
https://incarmusic.co.uk/shark-fin-f...antenna-1.html

 

Thanks Don, the only thing with that is its a shark fin style, i want to try and keep the car looking original if i can, they have this one on amazon but obviously ive no idea how it will fit the hatch, it gets good reviews.



 

Until the MY15 WRXSTI Subaru didn't include any real details of the aerial/antenna system in the manuals.
They also recommend removing the Head Liner and all that entails.
Your Hatch has the same/similar setup cord wise to a UK Hatch except the antenna/aerial has a different part number for use with different frequencies.
They both have an antenna booster as part of the aerial, powered from connector R97 on the rear loom. This connector is located above the nearside rear wheel with the wiring coming down the LH "C" pillar then backup up across the roof, down the LH "A" pillar and across to the H/U.

R97 being a single pin clear coloured connector, which I assume becomes live when "accessories" is activated.

OEM Aerial base uses similar mounting system


Aerial to power connection cord




From the parts database


With your new aerial If you run all the wiring straight from the aerial to the front of the vehicle you can pickup an "accesories" power supply local to the radio and leave existing wiring loom in place.

MY15 Antenna cord run for comparison

 

Anyone want something weird n wonderful for their hatch?

By my reckoning this is an inflatable airbed/mattress for impreza hatch when seats are folded down

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285986251235

if they'd delivered to NI I'd have bought it for a laugh

@Don Clark you may be able to dig a bit more into the part number?

 

Think you'll find its an airbag.

 

ffs there was me thinking i could have a camp bed in the back and just disappear for a weekend

 

98279FG050

Can only assume that it is a non Takata replacement passenger airbag using a different part number.
The original part number for this item begins 98271FG*** for the MY08-11 Narrow bodied Hatch models and MY08-14 Widebodied models.
The 050 would suggest its for LHD models

When querying the 2021 Parts Database "Master file" direct, 98279FG050 is found and appears to be superceded by 98279FG051
similarly 98279AJ050 is found and superceded by 98279AJ051 (BM/BR Legacy MY10-14) and many other 98279 part numbers.
However haven't found a way to access them via the normal route.

 

Don, this is one you maybe able to help with.

The OEM FM/AM roof aeral on a 2008 JDM Sti hatchback, is it amplified or non amplified ? The reason i ask is i may try a splitter like the one on the link below, but apparently they will only work with a non apmlified aerial.

 

From post 18788 above

Yes it's powered, but via the H/U.

 

So one of these antenna DAB spitters wouldn't be an option then as it says in the instructions "This antenna is compatible with all non-amplified FM aerials only and will NOT work with amplified booster aerial systems".

It's basically this one on the link below which is slightly different to the one i linked above

https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/conn...-splitter.html

 

So new year new bits....

Under the new gearknob is the STI Group N 6sp shifter its a smashing piece of kit - there is some increased NVH but nowt to worry about unless you already drive about in a silent hatch


Then comes some custom carbon fibre bits i got made to match the zerosports scoop cover I picked up. Local fella (in N.Ireland) sourced the correct weave to match the scoop then made me an airbox lid and then covered the alternator cover

Yes i know my intake pipe is scabby i still havent got round to fitting new one as it needs mapped in as it's 3" compared to current 2.75" pipe.

 

Looks good Gambit, i'd be tempted to get the intake redone so the red really pops and possibly get a cover/box to hide the battery as ive seen people do that and it looks good, you can get a cover too to hide the power steering reservoir.. Some nice touches in that engine bay, the carbon parts look good.

 

The intake i think might just clean up as its never been cleaned and in truth I can't be bothered to take it off to get it recoated, it'd be bogging again in no time prob also as im not one for engine bay cleaning bar a wipe of dust away....having no scoop is great for keeping bay a bit cleaner

Think there is covers for be legacy of same era that should cover power steering and battery but might take a bit of fettling with the intercooler pipe runs but will have a look, give me something to tinkerer with over next few weeks or so

 

Confusing problem here....

Heating / air con is cold on cold setting, but cool / luke warm on hot.
Often it seems to have "soft" radiator hoses after driving ( not under pressure ) - so hot - and if I remove rad cap it does NOT hiss / gurgle out... and I can run the hot engine without water overflowing the header tank if I take off rad cap... but other times it DOES "boil" out of rad cap after a drive.

Any Ideas? Thanks


Already Done :

Flushed heat exchanger ( in cabin ) via bulkhead connections - bit of dirty water came out
System flushed by garage ( although said not via heat exchanger in case they blew it up/burst it!! )

New STi radiator cap last year
Thermostat changed - genuine Subaru one 6 months ago
New water pump when cambelt changed 2 years ago
New Radiator - Mishimoto ally bigger capacity about 3 years ago - silicone hoses not that that affects it
AirCon recharged 1 year ago ish
Heater / air con controls work to divert air feet / face / mix etc. so they are OK. ( Not sure about temp mix diverter valve ?? )

Block insert, Cosworth head gaskets, head bolts when built...

 

( Not sure about temp mix diverter valve ?? )

It's an air mix shutter system consists mainly of Left and Right-hand air mix shutters along with two other flaps and an air mix actuator/motor as highlighted below






Have you run the HVAC auto Diagnostics? - copy attached

 

Thanks Don, If it's not the in car heat exchanger blocked ( both bulkhead hoses are hot, top one hotter than lower one ) so not warming up the air, it may be the mixing control under dash by steering column - the item pink highlighted ( stuck/burnt out? ).. a pain to get at!.

You put up the air con diagnostics last year for me when this problem started, and I ran thru it ... mostly OK - I can't recall what faults showed up but I do think it flagged up something. I'll have to do it again.

 

So with the digi HVAC controls in the car I've been experimenting with the Full Auto mode, the difference here is at least I can see what its doing, so for past few months the wet/damp/steamy window months it has been a revelation on Full Auto...never have any real issue and then if I do a quick flick to front demist mode clears it then back to full Auto

I've been running at between 20-23 degrees but its interesting that it only uses front demist for about first 5mins then will switch to full floor heat always, and gradually increaes fan speed as car comes up to temp to be able to provide hot enough air to increase temp

yes the standard dial hvac also do this but you can't actually ever see what it's doing so I never trusted it but finally I believe it

here are a few snaps just showing initial startup then 5, 10mins later...excuse the dust

 

Don, once again thanks for your help in understanding the Subaru setup as per the JDM stereo system that came with the car. The new Pioneer stereo is in now, for the time being i went with the windscreen stick on DAB aerial option, they can be really hit and miss so i'll see how it goes over time, if need be i'll change the roof aerial to a DAB one which is the more solid option. Again over time i think i'll change he stock speakers, they are fine but with having a decent head unit i wouldn't be making the most from it with the stock speakers, it's one of them where you can do it at a later date if you want. It's just great now having a stereo where all the menus are in Japanese as my Japanese isn't the best

 

Got one of the Legacy PAS/ABS covers and trimmed to fit..

Cant fit battery cover due to slight relocation of washer refill funnel and IC pipe so need to find just a plain black d23 battery cover then just use subaru frost protector and that would tidy battery area

(intake still not replaced )

 

Looks nice and neat Gambit, where did you get yours from as the prices i've seen so far look a bit daft for what it is, what modding is involved as i wouldn't mind putting one in mie as it really tidies up that area.

 

I got my ABS cover fron Japanparts back in the day.(2011 )



Originally for JDM Legacy's
Subaru Part Number 46112AG000 - Cover E/G room RH
You will need two clips P/N # 9091400063 to fit it.

Amayama's current pricing for Japan and UAE supply

 

Yeah I got mine from amayama.

@Don Clark what does the striker plate on the bonnet look like/fitment for your alarm switch?

mine always seemed to chew the rubber boot on the switch...hence I just deleted it in the end but seeing yours has me wondering

 

Quick answer.....
It's a flat rectangular plate with folded edges that attaches using the top stut mounting bolts.
The only image I have that shows it, is this one and it's on a white car. (black on black not so easy to see)

If you need further info will look in daylight when it stops raining

Better close up image of switch


Mounting bracket and switch

 

Searching the web found this in a scoobynet thread on the subject from 2020 .
Mines exactly the same as Matt's , no packing required.

 

Is your bonnet ram mount bolted over top of it?

Mine was bolted separately behind the mount bracket but that looks like you couldn't remove it without undoing the bonnet hinge bracket