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Has anyone retro fitted one of the quicker 2015 yet looking iwsti it looks quite strait foward a direct swap I was thinking of getting one as guys in the states are saying it completely transforms the car
What else did you have to replace besides the rack? Was it a straight swap? I've not read the whole iwsti thread but they did mention the VDC. Did or do you have to disable it?
From my understanding it's a streight swap, you run a risk of problems with the stability control, mine kicks in sometimes on roundabouts, although only gently, it's not an issue.
You can either partially disable it, or ignore it, if you drive positively it does not seem to happen.
From my understanding it's a streight swap, you run a risk of problems with the stability control, mine kicks in sometimes on roundabouts, although only gently, it's not an issue.
You can either partially disable it, or ignore it, if you drive positively it does not seem to happen.
I would not go back to previous setup.
Ok thanks, I might pick up a rack tomorrow if i can get it for the right price.
Engine Tuner fitted the rack i sourced.
From my understanding it's a streight swap, you run a risk of problems with the stability control, mine kicks in sometimes on roundabouts, although only gently, it's not an issue.
You can either partially disable it, or ignore it, if you drive positively it does not seem to happen.
I would not go back to previous setup.
Fitting a quicker rack, would I imagine, alter the steering angle sensor output (in relation to actual wheel angle) and thus upset the VDC as it's used in conjunction with the yaw rate/lateral G sensor on the MY08-14.
Looking at the diagrams for the VDC system used on the MY15 onwards it has a steering angle sensor (different part number to earlier models) but no separate Yaw/lateral G sensor.( would assume they are now internal to VDCCM)
There is an entry in the VDC section of SSM where Applied Model Code needs to be confirmed against equipment fitted.
I've decided to go a different route with my car so I have some Hardrace tie rod ends looking for a new home. I thought I'd offer them on here before I stick them on fleebay. Let me know if you're interested.
13:1 rack is one of the best things about the spec C. What advantages do the Hardrace rods offer?
The rack is definitely on the list to do. I think i need to underseal the car before doing anything else, especially while the weather is nice. Below is taken from the driftworks website where I bought them from.
"HARDRACE:6761
2 PCS/SET Roll centre tie rod end made with high quality alloy steel. These tie rod ends are designed to have maximum accuracy, which enables them to sustain extensive load.
Tie rod ends help keep your vehicle's front wheels stable. They are a ball-in-socket mechanism that allows the wheels to move up and down and side to side. That is important as the vehicle navigates different types of road surfaces, bumps, potholes, etc
. Correct lowered geometry . Direct bolt-on with OEM components . Provide better feedback to the driver
ROLL CENTRE TIE ROD END Tie rod ends are designed with high quality alloy steel. Produced using CNC turning machines and microprocessor controlled grinders. The ball pins are cold forged, which are subjected to HF induction in order to ensure long life. These tie rod ends are designed to have maximum accuracy, which enables them to sustain extensive load."
As per the group N parts list posted they are the right parts but you probably need the transmission mount as well for it to work.
Does anyone know exactly which crossmember Bush goes in which position, as it's not clear in any sources; I think the thick one goes on above, at front. I guess I will find out when I fit it.
Another opportunity to rust proof properly on the trans crossmembers as well.
Does anyone know exactly which crossmember Bush goes in which position, as it's not clear in any sources; I think the thick one goes on above, at front. I guess I will find out when I fit it.
Another opportunity to rust proof properly on the trans crossmembers as well.
yes thicker one at the top hedge I believe which is why my newage ones didn't fit. My correct ones should be turning up from ASP soon so will let you know
Does anyone know exactly which crossmember Bush goes in which position, as it's not clear in any sources; I think the thick one goes on above, at front. I guess I will find out when I fit it.
Another opportunity to rust proof properly on the trans crossmembers as well.
Looking at the diagram and part number references, the two the same, go front top and rear bottom and looking at the image the thicker one of those left goes top rear.(ref 41020K)
Comparison of 41022FE090
and 41022AG080
The Group N versions follow the same pattern
Last edited by Don Clark; 21 May 2020 at 11:58 AM.
Thanks Don.
Here's a heads up about 6 speed transmission mounts, of which there are 3 types on Sti's.
41022FE010 is oem, and softest.
ST410224S000 is the STI option, often mistakenly sold as Group N , even by well known sellers.
ST 410224S040 Group N hardest.
Then there is the modified Prodrive/RCM mount, which is totally filled in, solid.
.......just so you don't get confused by wrongly advertised ones!
Thanks Don.
Here's a heads up about 6 speed transmission mounts, of which there are 3 types on Sti's.
41022FE010 is oem, and softest.
ST410224S000 is the STI option, often mistakenly sold as Group N , even by well known sellers.
ST 410224S040 Group N hardest.
Then there is the modified Prodrive/RCM mount, which is totally filled in, solid.
.......just so you don't get confused by wrongly advertised ones!
I suppose it depends how HARDcore you want to be......
Anyone upgraded their speakers? I've only got fronts, but wouldn't mind rears as well...lower budget, was looking at Pioneer. Are front and rear both 6 1/2", and what size spacer do they need, or does it depend on the speaker? Cheers
Anyone upgraded their speakers? I've only got fronts, but wouldn't mind rears as well...lower budget, was looking at Pioneer. Are front and rear both 6 1/2", and what size spacer do they need, or does it depend on the speaker? Cheers
I'm in the process of collecting all the items needed to sound deaden and upgrade the factory speakers. If you look on crutchfields website (https://www.crutchfield.com) you can select impreza hatch and it'll tell you which speakers will fit i think they also have guides on there.
6.5"(17cm) will fit front and rear. I've gone alpine, I'll be running S-S65C components up front and S-S65 coaxial in the rear. If you have the upgraded speaker system you don't need spacers you can unscrew the old speakers from the spacers that are already there and reuse them. I've seen a video somewhere on youtube of a guy doing it when i find it I'll post it up. Sound deadening wise I'm looking at using noico 80mil, you can pick up 36 sq ft for £45.
Anyone upgraded their speakers? I've only got fronts, but wouldn't mind rears as well...lower budget, was looking at Pioneer. Are front and rear both 6 1/2", and what size spacer do they need, or does it depend on the speaker? Cheers
Fpan fitted rears and tweeters? to his 20th Anniversary
Thanks. I was aiming a bit cheaper than that! Is a pair of £30 speakers not worth it then? The spec C only has front speakers, but I have a Pioneer avics dab 77 head unit. To be honest, as there is zero sound deadening in the car, along with Group N mounts, and me having surfer's ear ( where excess bone growth blocks the ear canal) I just want a bit more bass and clarity
Last edited by hedgecutter; 17 June 2020 at 12:07 AM.
Thanks. I was aiming a bit cheaper than that! Is a pair of £30 speakers not worth it then? The spec only has front speakers, but I have a Pioneer avics dab 77 head unit. To be honest, as there is zero sound deadening in the car, along with Group N mounts, and me having surfer's ear ( where excess bone growth blocks the ear canal) I just want a bit more bass and clarity
It depends what £30 speakers you're going for but they should be an improvement over the 20watt standard speakers. Sound deadening should help with the mid bass. I'd fit them and go from there you'll know then whether your happy with them or need to spend a bit more. I don't know what speaker system the imports come with, it's possible you might need adaptors. Probably best just to take the door card off and have a quick look.
It turns out there are rear speakers, but the guy who fitted the head unit obviously couldn't be arsed to wire them in, along with the rear camera. They look like after market units, 40w.
these are oem fronts
these are the rears.
There is also a front tweeter wire.
So I could spend a bit more on the fronts, but I need to sort out the head unit connections. I'll probably get a professional to deal with it, unless it's possible to diy?
18 May 2020, 05:16 PM
. I think this will be added to my future mod list though.
