Has anyone done this mod on here?

 

Yep, i have it. Good mod

 

What else did you have to replace besides the rack? Was it a straight swap? I've not read the whole iwsti thread but they did mention the VDC. Did or do you have to disable it?

 

Engine Tuner fitted the rack i sourced.

From my understanding it's a streight swap, you run a risk of problems with the stability control, mine kicks in sometimes on roundabouts, although only gently, it's not an issue.

You can either partially disable it, or ignore it, if you drive positively it does not seem to happen.

I would not go back to previous setup.

 

Ok thanks, I might pick up a rack tomorrow if i can get it for the right price.

 

Fitting a quicker rack, would I imagine, alter the steering angle sensor output (in relation to actual wheel angle) and thus upset the VDC as it's used in conjunction with the yaw rate/lateral G sensor on the MY08-14.




Looking at the diagrams for the VDC system used on the MY15 onwards it has a steering angle sensor (different part number to earlier models) but no separate Yaw/lateral G sensor.( would assume they are now internal to VDCCM)




There is an entry in the VDC section of SSM where Applied Model Code needs to be confirmed against equipment fitted.

 

From what I've been reading you need to have the steering angle sensor reset/reprogrammed obviously as well as an alignment.

post #64 this guy was having issues with the vdc and reprogramming his SAS seemed to fix his issue.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...2751850&page=3

 

Further info on VDC adjustment

For MY08-14 VDC (identification: S3)





For MY15- (VDC Identification: P1)

 

Thanks for the info Don, the guy who had the rack didn't get back to me. I think this will be added to my future mod list though.

 

I've decided to go a different route with my car so I have some Hardrace tie rod ends looking for a new home. I thought I'd offer them on here before I stick them on fleebay. Let me know if you're interested.

https://www.driftworks.com/hardrace-impreza-legacy-gt86-brz-rc-tie-rod-end-2pcs-set.html

 

13:1 rack is one of the best things about the spec C. What advantages do the Hardrace rods offer?

 

The rack is definitely on the list to do. I think i need to underseal the car before doing anything else, especially while the weather is nice. Below is taken from the driftworks website where I bought them from.

"HARDRACE:6761

2 PCS/SET
Roll centre tie rod end made with high quality alloy steel. These tie rod ends are designed to have maximum accuracy, which enables them to sustain extensive load.

Tie rod ends help keep your vehicle's front wheels stable. They are a ball-in-socket mechanism that allows the wheels to move up and down and side to side. That is important as the vehicle navigates different types of road surfaces, bumps, potholes, etc

. Correct lowered geometry
. Direct bolt-on with OEM components
. Provide better feedback to the driver

ROLL CENTRE TIE ROD END
Tie rod ends are designed with high quality alloy steel. Produced using CNC turning machines and microprocessor controlled grinders. The ball pins are cold forged, which are subjected to HF induction in order to ensure long life. These tie rod ends are designed to have maximum accuracy, which enables them to sustain extensive load."

 

Does anyone know exactly which crossmember Bush goes in which position, as it's not clear in any sources; I think the thick one goes on above, at front. I guess I will find out when I fit it.
Another opportunity to rust proof properly on the trans crossmembers as well.

 

yes thicker one at the top hedge I believe which is why my newage ones didn't fit. My correct ones should be turning up from ASP soon so will let you know

 

Lol at how soft the oem ones are btw did a vid

 

Looking at the diagram and part number references, the two the same, go front top and rear bottom and looking at the image the thicker one of those left goes top rear.(ref 41020K)





Comparison of 41022FE090



and 41022AG080


The Group N versions follow the same pattern

 

Thanks Don.
Here's a heads up about 6 speed transmission mounts, of which there are 3 types on Sti's.
41022FE010 is oem, and softest.
ST410224S000 is the STI option, often mistakenly sold as Group N , even by well known sellers.
ST 410224S040 Group N hardest.
Then there is the modified Prodrive/RCM mount, which is totally filled in, solid.
.......just so you don't get confused by wrongly advertised ones!

 

Newage use the same thickness inserts, so just two different versions

 

I suppose it depends how HARDcore you want to be......

 

I have a white sti hatch (paint code 51E).

Does anyone know the paint code for under the bonnet please.

 

 

Thanks again Don

 

Anyone upgraded their speakers? I've only got fronts, but wouldn't mind rears as well...lower budget, was looking at Pioneer. Are front and rear both 6 1/2", and what size spacer do they need, or does it depend on the speaker? Cheers

 

I'm in the process of collecting all the items needed to sound deaden and upgrade the factory speakers. If you look on crutchfields website (https://www.crutchfield.com) you can select impreza hatch and it'll tell you which speakers will fit i think they also have guides on there.

6.5"(17cm) will fit front and rear. I've gone alpine, I'll be running S-S65C components up front and S-S65 coaxial in the rear. If you have the upgraded speaker system you don't need spacers you can unscrew the old speakers from the spacers that are already there and reuse them. I've seen a video somewhere on youtube of a guy doing it when i find it I'll post it up. Sound deadening wise I'm looking at using noico 80mil, you can pick up 36 sq ft for £45.

 

Here's the video

 

Fpan fitted rears and tweeters? to his 20th Anniversary

 

Thanks. I was aiming a bit cheaper than that! Is a pair of £30 speakers not worth it then? The spec C only has front speakers, but I have a Pioneer avics dab 77 head unit. To be honest, as there is zero sound deadening in the car, along with Group N mounts, and me having surfer's ear ( where excess bone growth blocks the ear canal) I just want a bit more bass and clarity

 

It depends what £30 speakers you're going for but they should be an improvement over the 20watt standard speakers. Sound deadening should help with the mid bass. I'd fit them and go from there you'll know then whether your happy with them or need to spend a bit more. I don't know what speaker system the imports come with, it's possible you might need adaptors. Probably best just to take the door card off and have a quick look.

 

It turns out there are rear speakers, but the guy who fitted the head unit obviously couldn't be arsed to wire them in, along with the rear camera. They look like after market units, 40w.

these are oem fronts

these are the rears.
There is also a front tweeter wire.
So I could spend a bit more on the fronts, but I need to sort out the head unit connections. I'll probably get a professional to deal with it, unless it's possible to diy?

 

Those speakers are perfectly decent I've found, i wouldnt bother swapping them, particularly for low cost ones.

If you just want to bump things up a notch how about this.


Pioneer also do an under seat sub, wont be breaking any windows but gives the bass a little boost.

TS-WX130DA

If you don't mind adding a little weight then some silent coat on the doors will help the sound quite a bit.