08/09 Hatches, Stand up and show yourselves!!!
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Last edited by Don Clark; 02 October 2019 at 09:34 PM.
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I've just bought a whiteline rear arb, is it worth getting uprated links too? I've been told theres no point, but have also read in some cases of the standard ones snapping. I'm contemplating just buying new oem ones when i fit the bar, what are peoples thoughts?
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Only if you have an adjustable bar. Stick to Superpro for a higher quality product
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This is what i have:
https://ukwhitelineperformance.com/c...-anti-roll-bar
Do you have a link to the superpro ones?
https://ukwhitelineperformance.com/c...-anti-roll-bar
Do you have a link to the superpro ones?
buy it off Ebay ? ,, mine just sold on there lol
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I've got this if anyone is interested: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163890200620
Last edited by fpan; 07 October 2019 at 01:35 PM.
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I've got this if anyone is interested: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163890200620
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They don't need a controller to work, all plug and play in one unit, it comes with its Defi sensors and everything needed to fit.
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its a nice item , I viewed it at rally day at coombe .
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What are my options for brighter reverse light on a jdm hatch; currently I have a red led bulb in one side as a fog, and a standard reverse bulb on the other. Options seem to be a bulb swap/upgrade, or fogs in the bumper reflectors if this isn't too complicated. It would be great if there was a "how to" if someone has done this.
Apologies if it is somewhere in the previous pages. Ta.
Last edited by hedgecutter; 18 October 2019 at 05:10 PM.
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Car went in for new headgaskets etc after noticed temps starting to rise slightly when mapping....note the gauge never moved off its half way mark. It was originally forged back in 2013
New gaskets, heads skimmed, valves cleaned, valve seats tidied and valve clearances adjusted. Now sounds like a sewing machine on idle
Initial run out today and temps never went above 105 on full flat out runs so all good so far
New gaskets, heads skimmed, valves cleaned, valve seats tidied and valve clearances adjusted. Now sounds like a sewing machine on idle
Initial run out today and temps never went above 105 on full flat out runs so all good so far
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Always wondered if those fog conversions would be legal being so low?
Certainly wont be much happening after these two bills in quick succession lol probably now just tidy up wee bits n pieces on it
Certainly wont be much happening after these two bills in quick succession lol probably now just tidy up wee bits n pieces on it
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I can't find a red reverse type one anymore.
That **** looks sexy!
Last edited by fpan; 20 October 2019 at 08:11 PM.
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https://www.google.com/search?q=7440...w=1920&bih=916
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I've posted this in the general forum also but thought i'd try here also so apologies for the repost but its racking my brain.
Since my engine rebuild i've done around 2k. During the 1k break in and driving like a grandad, the car started to hesitate and feel flat on partial throttle. Someone mentioned it could possibly be the maf so i cleaned it, and done what i thought at the time was an ECU reset (left the battery disconnected overnight) this improved the issue for a couple of days but the hesitation and flat spots soon came back. I done the cleaning process and reset again and again a few days later the issues were back. By this time i was convinced it must be the maf. After the engine break in period I ended up buying a secondhand maf and found the proper way of resetting my ECU by using ecuexplorer. After this the car felt as it should, it pulled like a train and i thought problem solved. A week later i was getting flat spots again top end, the car just felt like it was holding back past 3000rpm. Tonight I've reset the ECU again and the car flies, but i know once the ECU has relearnt the maf readings it will go back to being flat again.
Have i just been unlucky and bought a duff secondhand maf or is there something else that could cause this :
Any help would be much appreciated.
Since my engine rebuild i've done around 2k. During the 1k break in and driving like a grandad, the car started to hesitate and feel flat on partial throttle. Someone mentioned it could possibly be the maf so i cleaned it, and done what i thought at the time was an ECU reset (left the battery disconnected overnight) this improved the issue for a couple of days but the hesitation and flat spots soon came back. I done the cleaning process and reset again and again a few days later the issues were back. By this time i was convinced it must be the maf. After the engine break in period I ended up buying a secondhand maf and found the proper way of resetting my ECU by using ecuexplorer. After this the car felt as it should, it pulled like a train and i thought problem solved. A week later i was getting flat spots again top end, the car just felt like it was holding back past 3000rpm. Tonight I've reset the ECU again and the car flies, but i know once the ECU has relearnt the maf readings it will go back to being flat again.
Have i just been unlucky and bought a duff secondhand maf or is there something else that could cause this :
Any help would be much appreciated.
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sound more like youve a vacuum leak somewhere. each time you reset the ecu it clears all the correction tables - car then flies first off then slowly it tries to correct the airleak until it cant correct anymore (out of scale) and it then starts running like a dog.
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Ultimately thats what might have to happen. But if it's something i can sort myself easily enough I'll give it a go first.
I never thought about a vaccum leak, I'm waiting on a reply from the garage i'll mention this and hopefully try and get it booked in next week sometime.
I never thought about a vaccum leak, I'm waiting on a reply from the garage i'll mention this and hopefully try and get it booked in next week sometime.