T26 WRC - Frayz Engineering WRC S8 TARMAC SPECIAL - aka THE BOMBER
11 May 2010, 09:46 AM
#1351
Thanks Paul,
Head gaskets are 1.6mm items. I'm not quite following you on the headers comment? Lol. I have a set on GT specs going on this.
Especially on an unsleeved 257 case, I wanted this to be very det resistant. And only wanting to run V-Power if possible. I don't mind using meth but don't have access to E85 etc.
Head gaskets are 1.6mm items. I'm not quite following you on the headers comment? Lol. I have a set on GT specs going on this.
Especially on an unsleeved 257 case, I wanted this to be very det resistant. And only wanting to run V-Power if possible. I don't mind using meth but don't have access to E85 etc.
11 May 2010, 01:54 PM
#1353
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11 May 2010, 03:23 PM
#1355
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Never had any apparant problems with DET on mine, whether I have ran the VPower map or my "normal" Super Unleaded map (where I have been caught short). ECU does have knock control which is effective.
Alot of the potential problems may be resultant to "pushing" the map too close to the edge, but as you say, unless you are running a controlled fuel that would be pointless. Whatever map my car ever ends up with, at any one time, it has to take all the punishment that I plan to throw at it.
You obviously need to be fairly sensible with higher comp on VPower or less, but that certainly does not mean you are any more knock prone if it is mapped correctly.
Saying all of this though, mine was changed to high-comp based on theory and I was willing to give it an educated punt. The results we have had were certainly not expected to the level that has been achieved.
Alot of the potential problems may be resultant to "pushing" the map too close to the edge, but as you say, unless you are running a controlled fuel that would be pointless. Whatever map my car ever ends up with, at any one time, it has to take all the punishment that I plan to throw at it.
You obviously need to be fairly sensible with higher comp on VPower or less, but that certainly does not mean you are any more knock prone if it is mapped correctly.
Saying all of this though, mine was changed to high-comp based on theory and I was willing to give it an educated punt. The results we have had were certainly not expected to the level that has been achieved.
21 May 2010, 01:52 PM
#1356
Quick update on this.
Late change to spec includes a swap to Lateral long Crower H beam billet rods and Lateral custom wiseco pistons to suit.
The pistons are ever so slightly larger than the last set so the block has gone to be index honed to suit. I should get it back next week. The pistons/rods bearings have all been measured, checked and weighed. Now the complete rotating assembly only differs by 0.6grams.
Late change to spec includes a swap to Lateral long Crower H beam billet rods and Lateral custom wiseco pistons to suit.
The pistons are ever so slightly larger than the last set so the block has gone to be index honed to suit. I should get it back next week. The pistons/rods bearings have all been measured, checked and weighed. Now the complete rotating assembly only differs by 0.6grams.
27 May 2010, 10:33 PM
#1359
Block now index honed for clearance to suit the new Wiseco buckets. This needs another measure, inspection and wash before she goes together.
Some snaps of the new internals if youre interested.
Build should be underway next week.
Some snaps of the new internals if youre interested.
Build should be underway next week.
28 May 2010, 08:21 AM
#1362
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Just out of interest, why do you have all the weights/sizes on the components, does the block all have to match these?
Just interested as I'd love to build an engine myself, but wouldnt know where to start lol
Ricey
Just interested as I'd love to build an engine myself, but wouldnt know where to start lol
Ricey
28 May 2010, 10:03 AM
#1363
I weigh every internal rotating component. Then measure for clearance and match all components to one another to get the closest possible balance.
Rods, pistons, indevidual rings, circlips, bearings, bolts etc.
The diffence between the heaviest and lightest on this build is 0.6grams.
i find that acceptable, if not then i would shave to suit.
Rods, pistons, indevidual rings, circlips, bearings, bolts etc.
The diffence between the heaviest and lightest on this build is 0.6grams.
i find that acceptable, if not then i would shave to suit.
05 June 2010, 08:21 PM
#1367
Frayz, as per NASIOC, I am rollin now, and should be mapped next week sometime so I will try and give you as much info as poss.
Hold fire with the sale of the 3076 for now.
All I will be comparing though, is my previous 321V non avcs motor, to my 35 JDM AVCS motor.
Neil.
Hold fire with the sale of the 3076 for now.
All I will be comparing though, is my previous 321V non avcs motor, to my 35 JDM AVCS motor.
Neil.
05 June 2010, 08:38 PM
#1368
Whats the spec of the current motor? Ive just ordered valves to add some security/ peace of mind.
Ive a guy breaking my arm for my 30R, so the 35 looks imminent
06 June 2010, 02:56 PM
#1370
90% fast road 10% track/nurburgring.
Yes i know that points to the 3076, however its not exactly my daily drive. Will be a weekend toy only.
In my mind, the 2.5ltr is 25% larger than a 2ltr. Yet a 35R is nowhere near 25% larger than a 30R. So it cant be any worse, if not as bad as the 30r most people will put on a 2ltr.
Should be plenty torquey enough off boost and then when the 35R hits, it should do so with quite a bigger thump than the 30R. I know the 30 should make more torque as it will come on sooner. However, i dont want to push crazy torque on the non linered block.
What are your thougts? Am i logical or mental?
Yes i know that points to the 3076, however its not exactly my daily drive. Will be a weekend toy only.
In my mind, the 2.5ltr is 25% larger than a 2ltr. Yet a 35R is nowhere near 25% larger than a 30R. So it cant be any worse, if not as bad as the 30r most people will put on a 2ltr.
Should be plenty torquey enough off boost and then when the 35R hits, it should do so with quite a bigger thump than the 30R. I know the 30 should make more torque as it will come on sooner. However, i dont want to push crazy torque on the non linered block.
What are your thougts? Am i logical or mental?
06 June 2010, 04:43 PM
#1373
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or build it with the 30R and then swap if you think its still necessary after you've run it for a while, an almost new 30R will always shift quickly...less faffing around and probably get you back on the rad sooner
06 June 2010, 11:31 PM
#1378
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Now where have I heard this before........
FWIW Frayz, my road car runs a VF34...............my race car a GT30R.
Forget a 35 unless all your concerned with is bragging rights, the 30R will be quicker in all but very few situations. The 35 commands a lot of respect (do not read this as quicker) to get the most from it on the road.
FWIW Frayz, my road car runs a VF34...............my race car a GT30R.
Forget a 35 unless all your concerned with is bragging rights, the 30R will be quicker in all but very few situations. The 35 commands a lot of respect (do not read this as quicker) to get the most from it on the road.
07 June 2010, 01:36 PM
#1380
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35R + 2.5 rules..... I hope as mine will be mapped V soon with luck 
Always find your better having some head room for when you get bored. Gotta be loads of us that have wasted money changing things in the pursuit of go...
Good luck with it and hope to see some figures soon
Cheers
Col
Always find your better having some head room for when you get bored. Gotta be loads of us that have wasted money changing things in the pursuit of go...
Good luck with it and hope to see some figures soon
Cheers
Col