Project Track Car: Subaru Impreza Classic
Back on the car this weekend - was supposed to be doing marshal training, but looked out the window and saw all the snow and decided against it (it was cancelled in the end anyway)
So, the end of the sound deaning in the drivers/passengers foot well has been removed -

Thank god... and I started with the Hammerite Satin Black spray paint (I dont know why but every time I see satin black i think of Edd China (Wheeler Dealers))
I also made a start of the ABS removal, and what a pain in the **** that was... The standard nuts were a pain in the **** to remove, it was supposed to be a 10mm, but was a little too big and managed to spin our with a little bit of preasure and started to round off the nut, so ended up going imperial with a hammer and got them loose that way.
ABS module is now removed (god its heavy) and I managed to get a T-Peice onto the two rear lines:

And I ended the day trying to decide where the hell I'm going to mount the BIAS kit, then I have to get a pipe from the T-Peice to the bias valve, then from the bias valve to the master cylinder (will have to remove one of the lines from the MC and run a new pipe to the bias valve.
And for the fronts, I think ill just keep the standard pipes and T-Peice them all together, and they should be sorted.
Now should i add some PFTE tape to the nuts on the lines or not?
So, the end of the sound deaning in the drivers/passengers foot well has been removed -
Thank god... and I started with the Hammerite Satin Black spray paint (I dont know why but every time I see satin black i think of Edd China (Wheeler Dealers))
I also made a start of the ABS removal, and what a pain in the **** that was... The standard nuts were a pain in the **** to remove, it was supposed to be a 10mm, but was a little too big and managed to spin our with a little bit of preasure and started to round off the nut, so ended up going imperial with a hammer and got them loose that way.
ABS module is now removed (god its heavy) and I managed to get a T-Peice onto the two rear lines:
And I ended the day trying to decide where the hell I'm going to mount the BIAS kit, then I have to get a pipe from the T-Peice to the bias valve, then from the bias valve to the master cylinder (will have to remove one of the lines from the MC and run a new pipe to the bias valve.
And for the fronts, I think ill just keep the standard pipes and T-Peice them all together, and they should be sorted.
Now should i add some PFTE tape to the nuts on the lines or not?
Oh and sorry for the crap pictures, forgot my camera, so ended up taking them on the phone
And also forgot to add that I put the dash back in, and it looks mint!
And also forgot to add that I put the dash back in, and it looks mint!
Also had an idea of putting the DC graphics on the car (white front bumper, and wings going onto the black)

and same on the rear:

Ive never seen a classic done, and thought it would look good... what do you lot think?

and same on the rear:

Ive never seen a classic done, and thought it would look good... what do you lot think?
I would say no now that Blocks a Ford boy! Although I love the part where it goes from white to black with all the graffiti style DC Shoes writing.
And i wouldve happily sorted you out with some dry ice mate but unfortunately you are all the way up in Co. Durham!
And i wouldve happily sorted you out with some dry ice mate but unfortunately you are all the way up in Co. Durham!
Looks like its coming on well! Your ABS guide has been a good link, as mine has gone, and dont want it anyway.
Only bit Im not convinced on is the work v result of removing the sound deadening!
Only bit Im not convinced on is the work v result of removing the sound deadening!
I do like the look of it on his car, but then again, i saw the same design on a classic and didnt think it looked very nice, so I think ill keep it as is.
Well when I took the ABS cables from the module under the seat, it left me with just the wires that control the windows. Now I have this go behind the dash and then down the passenger side.
Once I have taken it all out, ill weigh it all and post up the weight, might change your mind.
Ive got to do something on the roof, as i put a few outwards dents in the roof fitting the cage, and have now knocked them flat, but the pain flaked off... so need something, and i quite liked that
Just a thought- for race numbers, have you looked at magentic ones? I use them for events- very handy. Just make sure paint is clean, and I always use a little tape as an extra piece of security.
Well another Sunday and more work done to the car 
I managed to get quite a bit finished (quite pleased now, as i can see the car being finished mechanically soon
)
So i cleaned up the drivers and passengers side foot wells now ready to spray and started at the passenger side


Then started on the drivers side:

Finally finished and sprayed.
Then set to work on fitting the brake bais valve and re-routing brake lines (after removing the ABS module)
Bias valve in the same place as the standard valve (modified the bracket to allow me to fit the Willwood valve:
Can see new pipe from master cylinder to valve, then from valve to T-peice to standard rear brake lines.

Rear pipes all standard, and T-Pieced together:

You can also see the catch can that Type-Ellis made for me (https://www.scoobynet.com/private-sa...catch-can.html) - Great job from him - Well recommended by me
Dash back in

Next on the list is to fill the brakes back up with DOT4, and do a gravity bleed on them (just learned about gravity bleeding, so thought this would be a great opportunity to test it out)
Also need to clear out the boot of the car (as its full of all the crap ive removed from the cabin) and put up a for sale post with all the interior bits
Waiting on my postman to arrive today with my solder suction removal tool so i can get on with fitting the chip and put the ECU back in the car to start it up (not been run in a while)
Also need to remove the crank sensor and give it a few turns over to fill the oil cooler with oil (I couldn't fill the oil cooler with oil before fitting it (quite impossible without getting oil all over the place)
Need to fit my new brake pads (2 min job, as ive already removed the passenger side)
Need to finish putting all the dash components back together, and steering wheel and seats back in the car.
And give the car a good wash for my secret wrap

I managed to get quite a bit finished (quite pleased now, as i can see the car being finished mechanically soon
)So i cleaned up the drivers and passengers side foot wells now ready to spray and started at the passenger side
Then started on the drivers side:
Finally finished and sprayed.
Then set to work on fitting the brake bais valve and re-routing brake lines (after removing the ABS module)
Bias valve in the same place as the standard valve (modified the bracket to allow me to fit the Willwood valve:
Can see new pipe from master cylinder to valve, then from valve to T-peice to standard rear brake lines.
Rear pipes all standard, and T-Pieced together:
You can also see the catch can that Type-Ellis made for me (https://www.scoobynet.com/private-sa...catch-can.html) - Great job from him - Well recommended by me
Dash back in

Next on the list is to fill the brakes back up with DOT4, and do a gravity bleed on them (just learned about gravity bleeding, so thought this would be a great opportunity to test it out)
Also need to clear out the boot of the car (as its full of all the crap ive removed from the cabin) and put up a for sale post with all the interior bits
Waiting on my postman to arrive today with my solder suction removal tool so i can get on with fitting the chip and put the ECU back in the car to start it up (not been run in a while)
Also need to remove the crank sensor and give it a few turns over to fill the oil cooler with oil (I couldn't fill the oil cooler with oil before fitting it (quite impossible without getting oil all over the place)
Need to fit my new brake pads (2 min job, as ive already removed the passenger side)
Need to finish putting all the dash components back together, and steering wheel and seats back in the car.
And give the car a good wash for my secret wrap
lol if i win the lotto this weekend then it'll be an RS, but until then i think ill have to stick to the ST lol
Aye Japfest is the first one im going to this year (when the car is going to be on track)
Aye Japfest is the first one im going to this year (when the car is going to be on track)
Well pooped in tonight and put some DOT4 in the brakes and bled them all (just normally for the time being) will let them settle for a while then do a bit of gravity bleeding if i feel the pedal isn't right (although it feels really good at the moment - much better then what it was) but that was with no wheels on sat in the garage pumping the pedal.
Need to get some of that spondge stuff that goes around the roll cage, as i took the tatty stuff off tonight while fitting the front part of the cage back in the car, and also got the steering wheel back on.
Then figured out i have trapped the wires for the clocks below the dash, so have to remove it again and put them in correctly (which involves taking the front part of the cage out again lol)
I would like to get the car running again in around 2 weeks time
Need to get some of that spondge stuff that goes around the roll cage, as i took the tatty stuff off tonight while fitting the front part of the cage back in the car, and also got the steering wheel back on.
Then figured out i have trapped the wires for the clocks below the dash, so have to remove it again and put them in correctly (which involves taking the front part of the cage out again lol)
I would like to get the car running again in around 2 weeks time
great work, but why you put on copper wires as brake lines? when they have contact with iron/steel they are very likely to get the iron rusting soon. (-> chemistry -> local element)
Will be a nice car with orange wheels, won't it?
cheers
Nico
Will be a nice car with orange wheels, won't it?
cheers
Nico

Aye should look good with the orange wheels







