Between us all we should have written and published a manual by now.

Maybe I will do that this weekend

 

Crankshaft Sensor :
Front/Middle of engine above crankshaft pulley, access it by reach through the middle of where all the belts cross. 10mm spanner to remove.

Camshaft Sensor :
Behind oil filler neck. 10mm spanner to remove it.

 

tHE HESITATION i WAS HAVING WAS WHEN HOT... oops capslock..

The different hesitation and starting taking longer is all the time now..

I shall look at sensors possibly tonight... cheers

JGM

 

I don't know whether its wise to say this but I do have a workshop manual for 93-96 cars. If you have any really challenging problems I'll try and help. I don't want to be looking up stuff every 5 mins though so don't test my enthusiasm with simple stuff.
I might start a helpline at £2/min...

 

If the cam or crank sensor has a fault the engine will lose syncronisation and the rev counter should become erratic/drop to zero. Did you try changing the MAP sensor itself, Scott? And does the check engine light come on when the misfire occurs?

 

ScottT , why dont you just borrow another car!!!

 

Luke,

Have you tried closing the gap up on the Spark Plugs to see if it improves.

Standard gap is 0.7mm, so try about 0.6mm to see if it improves things.

 

Luke,

Do you know I read that and I thought... gez Scott I would have part exchanged it for another car by now...

I presume the Prodrive chip didn't improve things Scott?

JGM

 

Prodrive Chip not fitted yet....

 

Hi Guys, I've uploaded new coil pics to my site... http://communities.msn.com/IMPREZAWRXPhotosite/mywrxpix.msnw hope this helps. I've only shown the drivers side !! the others not as pretty (moving battery soon)
- Mark.

 

Coil packs are fired wasted spark like the later cars not sequential, its quite possible that the ignition module itself is faulty on an early car, its located just underneath the mounting bracket for the boost control solenoid, its what the iecu uses to actually fire the coil pack off, later car igniters are all integrated together. Worth taking it off and checking the wiring too and from ... split damaged insulation can lead to the coil pack not being given enough dwell and charge.

 

And the boost control Solanoid is????? (Where!!) Anyone got a photo.


WE WILL GET TO THE END OF THIS ONE!!

 

Boost control Solenoid is what we were talking about previously.

Located on the drivers side suspension strut top in the engine bay.

It is the cyclindical item with pipes coming out... the bigger of the two... it is the one mounted vertically rather than the smaller one mounted on top of it horizontally.

I tried to clean mine last night (BCS that is) but with out removing lots of bits I could only get to the top of it.. removed the pipe and sprayed brake cleaner.. also cleaned the crank and cam sensor which were both in a mess but car runs no worse but not sure if any better.. good to get the sensors clean though.
The Cam sensor had a small burn make in the middle.. about 3mm circle.. which came off with brake cleaner and a cloth. The Crank sensor just had an amount of oilly belt dust. Just have to see now if my intermittent hesitation has gone now

Cheers for help so far guys

JGM

 

Have adjusted the rubber "Stop" underthe accelerator peddle. This has stopped the problem as it is not allowing me "Full throttle". I dont notice any difference driving. Just makes overtaking easier as I am not expecting the "Jurking"

Meeting up with Dosenoffner tomorrow. Will check sparks and gap. And test coil packs. Will take time today to check wiring.

Cheers for everyones help so far.

 

If you only get it at full throttle, maybe the throttle position switch/sensor is a bit dodge.

 

And that is where Scott??!!!!

I'm sure by the end of the weekend ,Scott will have had us take half the car apart!!!

This could be true Scott, well worth a try.

 

Not sure what the resistances are (between 0 and 78K ohms ring a bell)but I know that it is in the Subaru Manual sold in Halford , published by Chilton. It covers a variety of Subaru's i.e Impreza, Legacy etc...etc upto 1996.

I'm trying to get a collegue to Scan the required pages, so that I can post them (that's where the coil pack piccies/info came from).

The TPS is mounted on the throttle body, the opposite side to the cable attachment and has a 4-way plug attached. It is basically a variable resistor.

 

or http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...914490-8316704

 

May as well post it in here rather than starting a new topic...

I want to locate the wire from my ignition to the start solenoid..
in the engine bay... so question one should be where the flip is my starter motor? then where is the solenoid?

I had a quick look from the top down last ngiht but couldn't see it...

Cheers

JGM

 

Starter Motor is under the back of the intercooler and mounted on the top of the gearbox. I think the Solenoid is integral to the Starter motor.

There is a large (+) cable running to it and a smaller crimp connector which is the earth (-).

 

Cheers Scott...

Home made immobiliser here we come... maybe!



JGM

 

0.7mm

27 thou for you oldies

 

Glad you got it sorted Luke.

I only wish my problem was as simple as that :-(

Plug from Midland Impreza are advertised cheap. Not sure how they compare to the origionals.

I paid £11.79 each +VAT from Subaru for mine.

 

Glad you got it sorted Luke...

Well my hesitation has gone it would seem!

Drove down to Kent on Friday and nothing.. all running fine..
Drove back up this morning at some silly time and no hesitation!

So either me cleaning the crank / cam sensors or the half hearted attempt at cleaning the boost solenoid has managed to cure the problem for the moment!

Thanks very much guys!

I believe I paid about £12 a plug too...

Cheers

JGM

 

top, to save searching!

 

As well as the info I posted earlier on this thread :
http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...D=74077&Page=2

I now have this :

 

Anymore news on a group buy? I think mine are playing up.

 

JGM

If it is of any help - I had the exact symptoms that you described on the very first post. Took it to Powerstation and Rich went straight for the coil packs. Took all 4 off - the rubber on 2 had begun to perish, the rubber on the other two had practically disintegrated. Therefore under heavy load/high revs the spark was finding an alternative path other than into the cylinders, I believe.

Replaced all four packs (about £170) running perfect after that.

 

Scott T and others

Is it possible to do the First test without removing the coil pack??

From the side of the engine what "Happens"??/ Where does the plug go?? Is it inside the coil or at the end??

By fitting the "Offboard" type is it easy to locate lead onto spark plug???

Hope you understand waht I am trying to get at!!


Have posted about organizing a groupbuy if a dealer can supply at a good price.

[Edited by Luke - 3/4/2002 6:16:53 PM]

 

Where did you get them for that cheap? I have been quoted £200+vat for a set of 4.